Recently, I had a new stand-alone workshop built. It is 18′ x 24′ with a 10′ ceiling and a 12′ x 24′ attic space with a vaulted roof. The shop has 2×6 walls with R-19 insulation and R-38 insulation in the vaulted attic roof. The walls are also covered with 5/8″ drwall. I was planning on installing a propane Hot Dawg heater suspended from the ceiling but given that I live in a fairly mild climate (eastern Maryland) and I can tolerate working in a 60-degree shop, I’m now looking at cheaper electric alternatives such as installing 2 radiant panels in the ceiling or installing a 5000W 20-amp electric overhead heater (such as the FUH54 Fahrenheat model).
I’m curious about people’s opinions on radiant panels vs. an electric utility heater with a fan? Also, is it ok to let the shop temperature fluctuate to mid-30’s when I’m not in there to low 60’s when I am?
– Lyptus
Replies
Propane Heater
Here is one option. I live in Southern Louisiana so heat is not much of a problem. I inherited a stand up heater from a wedding we had at the house. This is an outdoor heater mind you and would have open flame that could light off dust. However, I have 10' ceilings in my shop and there is no significant heat hitting the ceiling. If you are not making a bunch of saw dust I don't see a real problem. Some sawing or whatever should be fine. Major sweeping where you need a dust mask might be. It gives off enough heat to take the edge off. It is portable and when not used you just roll it out of the way. It has the option to be moved elsewhere for other purposes, parties or other outdoor gatherings. This is not the best option but I use it infrequently for a little extra heat. The link below is not the one we bought just a link to one that is similar. You can get them on sale for ~$150
http://www.patioheaterstore.com/commercial-patio-heaters/standing-patio-heaters/firesensecommercialpatioheater.cfm
A small woodstove, perhaps?
If you're working with domestic hardwoods, cutoffs could be recycled as a heat source.
A really small Lopi or Yotl woodstove will easily heat a space you have described.
Put a soapstone slab on top and you'll have radiant heat for some time after the fire dies.
http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewforum/13/
I have used this heater for several years and it is great to quickly heat a small shop
http://www.amazon.com/Fahrenheat-Ceiling-Mount-Automatic-Electric-Heater/dp/B0000AXEZV/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1289050287&sr=1-3-fkmr2
There are others like it. The only complaint is that it does not come with a remote thermostat that could be mounted on a distant wall. Because I have 10 ft ceilings I have to keep a step stool nearby to change the on-unit thermostat.
cycling problems on Fahrenheat heater
Bak,
The heater you have is the one that I am thinking of getting. In the reviews I've read, some complain about it cycling on and off every few minutes and that jumping some of the internal wiring is required to correct the problem. Have you noticed that as a problem?
- Lyptus
Lyptus,
I have not had a cycling problem with my unit. And someday when I have time I will take out the themostat and wire it to another spot in my shop. Meantime I'll try not to fall off the stool.
Placement of the Fahrenheat heater
Bak,
I just purchased and received the same Fahrenheat heater that you have. I'll need to wire it up now. Did you use 10-2 wire and a 30amp circuit breaker?
I plan on placing the heater so that it directs air to my back when I'm working at the bench with the idea that I won't have to wait for all the air in the shop to warm up before I get warm. The directions say the heater throws air 18'. I'm not sure though whether I should place the heater 10' - 12' away from my bench or further, 15' - 17' away. I don't want to get blasted with hot air while at the bench but I also want to be able to feel the heat soon after entering my otherwise cold shop. Suggestions?
Thanks,
Lyptus
Radiant panels
Lyptus,
I am a big fan of radiant heaters. Living in Michigan I NEED heat in the shop. I have installed a gas-fired radiant heater that I interlocked with a remote thermostat and a very small exhaust fan. (All from W.W. Grainger.) It has worked perfectly for ten years. I like the fact that it heats 'things', not the air.
As I had covered the insulated ceiling with a celotex-like product, I decided to install a piece of Duroc cement board above the heater. I doubt that you would have to do that.
You idea of an electric panel sounds 100% on the mark.
Frosty
garage heat
Frosty, I'm really interested in your radiant heater! I went to the Grainger site. Here's my scenario. I had the house built 2 yrs ago and had them put in a 4" exhaust duct, propane connection, electrical outlet and even run a thermostat wire all in one corner of the garage. The garage is 28 X 28 with 11 ft ceilings. All my machines are on the opposite wall(read can't be moved). My questions are 1)Do you have the ceiling tube type radiant heater, 2) Would the heat reach me on the other side of the room, 3) Does this require a second wall penetration to bring in fresh air ? Thanks, Larry
Radiant heater
Dog,
That sounds like a long reach for the radiant heater but it might work. However, I would suggest hanging a heater halfway across the space, aimed at the shop area. I don't have any inlet air provisions, just the space beneath the personnel door to the garage. My tiny, about 6" in diameter, exhaust fan is at the opposite end of my shop. (Shop is roughly a long, single car space - about 11' x 22')
I don't think you want the heater too close to where you work.It radiates so much heat when 'on', that it could have you 'stripped to the waist' in short order.For the same reason, I would not aim it at the thermostat. Hanging a heater away from the area your builder 'plumbed' is no big deal Just extend the propane line with soft copper tubing.
Frosty
Unvented heaters..
Iowacajuns,
If I read your post right, you're heating your shop with an "outdoor" heater. It has an open flame, which means there is no vent to exhaust the combustion gasses. That is a very dangerous situation.
One of the exhaust gasses present with unvented combustion is carbon monoxide, a colorless and tasteless gas that takes the receptor spots on red blood cells that carry oxygen. If you breathe too much of it, you will die. Lesser amounts cause confusion and flu-like symptoms.
If you've got an instruction manual for the heater, read it over. It undoubtedly says the heater is to be used outdoors only - because of the carbon monoxide danger. I don't want to sound like a scold or an alarmist. But hundreds of people in this country die every year from carbon monoxide poisoning. Don't you be one of them..
Zolton
Shop heating further north
Lyptus,
I live near Edmonton, Alberta. My shop is about the same size as your, but I have no attic and 10ft walls. 1/32" drywall. Concrete floor.
My first heat source was a 4800 watt construction heater. I kept it on very low settings, and would turn it up when working. It sis not take take long for the temperature in the room the be uncomfortable. I did not care for the blower air and these heaters are not meant for continuous service. A few time my thermostat failed to disengage, so I only use it for boosting. My continuos heat comes from an oil filled radiator style electric heater. It keeps the edge off nicely and will hold the room at 70 if required.
I have not found any problems with fluctuating the temperature but your humidity levels are quite different from mine. Whether that makes a difference I do not know.
For a wood shop, Frosty's recommendation of a gas fired radiant with no fan is the best solution for a wood shop.
EDIT : Having just seen Frosty's picture - NO NOT THIS STYLE! Sealed combustion chamber so all exhaust gases, fumes and water vapour are vented out of the work area -Direct Venting.
Don
I live in central Virginia. My 24x24 insulated workshop is heated and cooled by a 1.5 ton heat pump. I purchased it on line, paid about $1100 for the whole rig, and installed it myself. Then had a tech come and hook up the line set and start the system up. I've used various heaters over the 30 years I've had this shop-electric forced air, radiant, kerosene-- and settled on this installation about 5 years ago. Several reasons for this. 1) very safe, can leave running all the time to maintain temp and humidity. Especially helpful when leaving glue ups overnight to dry or when finishing a project. 2) provides cooling in the summer. keeps humidity down and prevents rusting of tools. 3) triple filters in the cold air return assist my ceiling mounted HEPA unit and dust collection system keep the air clean. the 16x20 filters are cheap to replace. 4) my dogs love the A/C and heat. 5) rapid response for heat. I can walk in the shop at 58 degrees (normal unoccupied winter setting--for the dogs--and bump the temp up to 65 in about 5 minutes with the 10kw strip heaters built into the airhandler. Allows me to have short sessions in the shop after dinner for example, without any hassle. My electric bill averages, over the year, to about $100/mo for the shop.
radiant floor heat
In your situation I would lean towards a heat pump for both its heating and cooling abilities, however if your only concern is heat I would consider radiant floor. I have a 900 sq ft attached shop in Rochester, NY that I heat anywhere between 5-7 months of the year with a window air conditioning unit for the summer months. The system is run through an electric water heater with a thermostat controlled circulator pump. We have a municipal power company that provides power at rates well below the neighboring towns so I am able to keep the shop at a comfortable 60 degrees all winter long at a cost of about $25 a month, I switched from natural gas which has saved me about $15 a month. The bonus is that the shop is separated from the living space by two doors so dust migration is almost zero, if I could only remember to take my shoes off….
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