Mr. Smalser, I just purchased my first plane. It is a Stanley Bailey #4 smoother. I purchased it off Ebay for $18.00. It looks to be in pretty good shape, no splits on tote or knob and no rust pitting on the sole. Aside from the general clean up, rehabbing and sharpening you have already discussed previously, could you please gives us a quick tutorial on setting up a plane for the first time, such as this one, for cutting the proper type shavings, adjusting and etc. I have read Patricks Blood and Gore pertaining to the old Stanley planes and really enjoyed that. I appreciate the time you take to help those of us who are trying to learn hand tool techniques. Thanks so much, Dale
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Replies
Dale once it is all tuned up and ready to go back together you have to follow a few easy steps.
1. Set the chip breaker on the blade so that about 1/16" to 1/8". There should be enough room between he chip breaker for the shaving to pass. I usually set mine at closer to 1/16" because of the finer shavings I tend to make.
2. Set the iron with the chip breaker installed in the plane and secure it with the cap iron. Then it is time to adjust the mouth opening, the blade should be set so that it protrudes below the sole of the plane but not to far. The rule I follow is the mouth should be twice as wide as the shaving I plan on making. This step make take a while if you have a Bailey frog as I do on my planes. Make small adjustments and keep checking.
3. Make sure everything is tight and ready for final installation. You don't want to have to break it all down because you forgot to tighten the screws holding the frog in place. I like to set the adjustment knob so that the blade is just below the sole. Make sure that the lateral adjustment lever is centered with the plane and install the iron and cap iron. Now hold the plane upside down and sight down the sole to make sure that the iron is parallel to the sole. Make what ever adjustments with the lateral adjustment lever.
4. Once parallel then back the iron back past he sole of the plane and then take a scrap of clear straight grained wood and start planing each pass adjust the blades depth until you get a paper thin shaving. Remember that if you start to to get only small short shavings as you go down the length of the board you maybe planing off the ridges left by a thickness planer so give it a few passes to ensure that the wood is dead flat. If you find that you are taking shavings from the one side then adjust the blade with the lateral adjustment lever. If you you find the shavings are plugging the mouth then you may have the mouth to tight or the chipbreaker to far down the blade. Also if the shavings are to thicker than you want them to be, back the blade back past where you want it to be and then slowly increase the depth. This way you take up any play in the adjustment knob.
Scott C. Frankland
Scott's WOODWORKING Website
"He who has the most tools may not win the race of life but he will sure make his wife look like a good catch when she goes to move on."
Scott, Thank you so much for the advice, you have been a great help.
I am sure there are others out there that go about the whole thing different than I do but with time you will be breeze throught this like there was nothing to it and you find you own style.Scott C. Frankland
Scott's WOODWORKING Website"He who has the most tools may not win the race of life but he will sure make his wife look like a good catch when she goes to move on."
http://woodcentral.com/bparticles/plane_tune.shtml
http://www.amgron.clara.net/planingpoints/planeindex.htm
TomS
Thanks Tom, I saved those two sites on my favorites. Dale
http://www.cianperez.com/Wood/WoodDocs/Wood_How_To/Smalser_on_RehabbingPlanes.htm
Tom
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