hello again: doing raised panel cabinet doors. Last week frank and don helped me getting the router dialed in, and the cuts in the rails and stiles for the panel came out fine. thank you again.
This weekend’s problem is with blowout? on the ogee edge portion of the end of the rails when i run them thru the router. I am using the miter slot and have a piece of hard stock behind the piece being cut to prevent blowout on the flat back of the piece, but the curvy edge part of the ogee cut is unsupported and gets blowout when i am cutting half the rails. When the ogee part of the left end is going into the router blade it is fine, but when i flip the piece to do the right end the ogee portion comes out of the blade last and is a rough edge liek blowout.
How do i prevent this?? or am i destined to have this 50% of the time.
Should i NOT have cut the grooves and ogees first ????????????????? Should i have routered the ends first?? ie, am i doing it bassackwards??
thankyou again, patrick
Replies
pat,
Yup, bassackwards. Cope first, then run the sticking. Or back the previously molded edge up with a coped backer.
Ray
Ray
Ray , have you ever thought about doing this professionally ?
d
dusty,
"have you ever thought about doing this professionally ?"
What, telling people they f*&%ed up? It don't pay so good, in my experience :-)
Ray
yeah, but you have a nice way of delivering the message. Some people have the knack of being able to tell someone to "go to hell" in such a way that ya kinda look forward to the trip . . . . you silver tongued devil, you.
best regards, patrick
i was afraid you were going to say that . . . . glad these are for the pantry; my "test run" before tackling the kitchen.
i guess that's why they call it practicing . . . .
tomorrow i will try a few with an ogee backer . . . and then decide if i need to start over. . . . but since it is for my place and i tend to be a perfectionist (okay, anal), i already know i am going to start over since if i don't, my eyes will go to each corner every time i walk into the room and focus on nothing but the mistake.
thanks for the voice of experience, patrick
but whats really scary is Doctors are practicing also
d
pat,
Before you go the do-over route. Have you cut the panels yet? If they are not final sized... You could run the molded edges of your rails across the jointer, taking off 1/16" or so. Re-run the molding, taking off another 1/16", and eliminating the blow-out at the corner. Sure, your rails are now 1/16" narrower, but you can make the panels 1/8" longer, and who's to know?
Ray, salvage expert
Ray and Dusty, thanks. I thought Ray was spot on, but when i read the second post i gots confused, which no doubt means my terminology or explanation is challenged . . . . story of my life, eh.
I am doing raised panel doors (maple) and have not yet cut the panels so i still have room to fudge.
Assuming my terminology is correct (no surprise if i am mistaken), my outside vertical members are stiles (s as in sides) and my horizontal members are rails. My problem is with a part of the vertical edge of the of the end of the horizontal member where it makes the joint with the stile. My stiles are 2 and 7/16ths. The face is 2 inches and the cove or bead (or both) is the 7/16 ths towards the panel side. Because this is a corner joint, the 7/16 th part (looking at the face) is at a 45 degree angle. It is the coped (??) part. That 45 degree angle generally lines up with the 45 corner line of the panel.
I have been routing with the stock face down and the router to the right of the piece. When i put the left end in (flipped over so it is now on the bit side) the bit cuts into the rounded area and all is fine. When i do the right side of the end, the beaded or coved part of the stock is towards the fence, and that is the problem. The edge of the 45 degree cove or bead gets all boogered (sorry, just seems to fit) up rather than cut cleanly. Hope that is a bit clearer. I think you guys were correct on the coped support idea, which i will try in the morning. I sincerely appreciate the advice. Patrick
pat,
All right. So, if you joint off 1/16" of the inside edge of the rail, and re run the molding (and groove for panel), you will mold away 1/16" of the blown out area at its end, re-forming the corner, no? That will make the 2" wide flat 1 15/16" and the rail will be 2 3/8" wide.
It will be just as if you had first coped an un-molded rail, then molded it, working away the blow-out. (Only you have lost 1/16" to the jointer).
Ray
Ray, i think that will work. Thank you again. Patrick
Just a note, If using a panel raising bit, raise end grain first.
Tom.
Thanks Tom and Will, you just saved me from another screw up next weekend .
43482.15 in reply to 43482.13
Thanks Tom and Will, you just saved me from another screw up next weekend .
AND THEN YOU have to find a hunk of scrap to use for the 'backer'I have spend hours looking for a 'stick' I will never use to prevent blowout!
Greetings Patrick ,
Not sure I exactly understand your question but here goes ,
When you rout or shape an edge detail on a frame you do an end first then the next side and the other end and the last side , go all the way around in a CC wise direction .
On details where blowout is a concern you can make a zero clearance fence plate / cover to eliminate some of the blowout .Depending on the cutter sometimes you can use 1/4" plywood screwed to your fence or aux fence . make a relief cut for any bearings or nut the with the router on and the fence clamped down on one end but barely on the other slowly move the fence into the cutter and it will cut through the 1/4" er whatever and leave a profiled but tight fitting opening .
Be very careful when you do this as in all operations safety first .
tell me more if I missed the problem
dusty
you do an end first then the next side .. Yep... ALWAYS!
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