Replies

1. 
   Steve50 | Aug 31, 2005 02:51am | #1

   One feature to make a horizontal router would be the ability to trim edgebanding overhang.  To do this effectively, having a gap between the table and fence would be necessary.  Also, a micro-adjust feature on the router height would be desirable.

1. 
   RickL | Aug 31, 2005 07:27pm | #7

   Virutex, Hoffman and Lamello make lipping planers for trimming edging. FWW had an article recently on a simple router base to trim edgings. Pretty much a standard technique in most shops and the router can be set up horizontal or vertical.

   Another option is the tablesaw patterncutting technique for trimming edging...

   http://www.shopnotes.com/main/onlineextras.html

   Scroll down to Shopnotes #81 Just make the fence out of thicker material to support your stock better.

   Edited 9/1/2005 7:14 am ET by RickL

2. 
   stantheman | Aug 31, 2005 04:35am | #2

   Matthew

   very interesting.  I have a half-finished shop-made horizontal table I've been working on, on and off for the last year.  My intention was to use it to make mortises and tenons horizontally, as well as using vertical profiles with my low-HP router.  So, my thought is that I would like both the router height and the table height to be micro-adjustable. 

3. 
   RickL | Aug 31, 2005 01:31pm | #3

   I don't think you will find anything simpler and cheaper than the one made in FWW #141. Loose tenons is the way to go. Using the machine to make tenons is a step backward in efficiency in my opinion and twenty years of slot mortiser advocacy. The slot mortiser was invented in the 60's in Europe and is slowly catching on in the US. Also the Tools and Shops FWW issue had a version using aluminum T track that was low budget.

   
1. 
   MatthewSchenker | Aug 31, 2005 02:45pm | #4

   RickL,
   I saw that one in FWW, as well as some others. The problem with all these shop-built models I have seen is accuracy. I'm hoping for a machine that allows precise height adjustments for the router, and very accurate x/y movement of the table. I've used drawer slides in many shelf projects. It seems to me there is too much side play for really accurate work.

1. 
   RickL | Aug 31, 2005 04:01pm | #5

   Try it. I know someone who made a similar one before the article was published and it's very accurate. Drawer slides mounted in tandem cancel out the play plus using good slides like accuride make a big difference. Plus it does have a simple accurate system to adjust the router height.  At least as accurate as the Rojek which I have access to. From the descriptions of the Grizzly G0540 I'd have to say the Rojek at $1600 isn't any better but with finesse I can keep the joints within .005". Seems a lot of folks think the multirouter is the state of the art. The "Wirth" is similar machine for half the money...

    http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=95-100

   The AWW march issue had a good article on making a router lift that could be adapted to a slot mortiser.

   http://woodcentral.com/shots/shot52.shtml

   Also made a few machines using old handmills like pictured in the above link. Old metal working machines are still going to have a tighter tolerance than a new woodworking machine.

   I've using a lot 80/20 stuff in the last few years. Another viable option for making gadgets in the shop. A bit pricey but more than makes up the time trying to cobble metal other ways. I do have a bridgeport, metal lathe and welding capabilities.  We are always making and modifying machines in our shop.

   http://8020.net/

   I first learned about the slot mortiser in FWW  25 years ago and don't think they ever  really gave it the press it deserves. I'll stick with the lower rpm type units. Quieter and I can mill brass and other nonferrous metal as well. Plus the horizontal drill feature is handy for me. Sometimes I'll just dowel plus the lower rpm means being able to use larger diameter drill bits. I'm going to put a VFD on it  so I can slow it down even more.

   Edited 8/31/2005 10:08 am ET by RickL

   Edited 8/31/2005 10:12 am ET by RickL

   Edited 8/31/2005 10:15 am ET by RickL

2. 
   WillGeorge | Sep 01, 2005 01:44pm | #8

   See my old post
   http://forums.taunton.com/tp-knots/messages?msg=24034.1I used three sliders for each table (Just teo for the router)There is no measurable movement of the tables after adjustment of the slide positions.. Well, at least worth measuring..

4. 
   | Aug 31, 2005 04:30pm | #6

   Matt,

    

   I have been using the horizontal mortising table on my INCA 259 table saw for over twenty years now.  I cannot imagine doing without it!  Some day I would like to be able to afford a larger tilt arbor saw, but, I will hang on to the INCA just for the horizontal mortiser.

    

   Bob Salamy

5. 
   artd10 | Sep 02, 2005 02:52am | #9

   I considered building the one in FWW but when the Grizzly machine came out I opted for it. There has been much discussion and speculation about accuracy, my experience with the Grizzley G 0540 is that accuracy is definitly not a problem. In addition to being considerably faster, in terms of allignment and fit, the loose tenon joints are better than when I did M & T or bisquit joints.  My .02$   Art