Hi all,
This is my first non-construction related woodworking project, and I’m trying to build a eurorack case. Chances are you don’t know what that is, so I’ll include a picture. But it’s basically nerd furniture. It’s a box with racks in it for installing electronic synthesizer modules.
This looks to be simple enough, right? Well, I have to complicate it for myself, because I want the grain to run diagonally.
I’ve drawn it out, created a template for the cheeks and . . . now what? I don’t think there’s a safe way to cut a plywood panel diagonally on a table saw. I have a circular saw but the only blade I have for it is the one that came with it that’s apparently a special one guaranteed to splinter everything in its path. I don’t have a problem putting a new blade on it, but I’d have to order it and shipping is a bit iffy right now. I did try to cut a test piece with the blade that’s on it, but it was no match for the baltic birch. I’m not entirely sure a better blade would help with that.
I tried cutting down the piece as much as possible and “constructed” a 45 degree jig out of triangle cut-offs, but what I created is probably really an amputation accelerator. My test runs (saw retracted and turned off) didn’t go so well so I stopped.
Aaaaaanyway, how would you go about cutting a sheet of 18 mil baltic birch diagonally? And then do it again exactly like it? Should I just give up and use factory edges and straight grain? Did I bite off too much for a first project?
I appreciate any advice you could give.
Replies
I would take a larger piece of plywood, say 2 x 2 feet, run it over the table saw against the fence to make sure I had 2 parallel sides. Leave the fence in place after that second cut. That would essentially be my jig. Then I'd attach the work piece to my jig, raise the blade to cut through the work piece. You'll get a good diagonal cut along the second cut line on the simple jig. Make sure the majority of your work piece is supported by the jig. The trick will be fixing the work piece to the jig. You could do something as simple as screwing the jig to the work piece, with the screws going into the non-show side. You could get fancier with the attachment means if you don't want any screw holes.
One more point: cutting might be easier if you use the circular saw and a straightedge to get the work piece to a rough size before you finish up on the table saw.
I'm going with Jimbo's idea here but refining it a little.
Essentially you need a means to refine an edge that is roughly cut. This is just a matter of fixing it to something that will be able to be guided by straight reference edge.
You also need to make the workpiece small enough to handle safely with larger machine tools.
First, you are going to need to make a template for your piece. This can be paper if you don't have a router with a bearing-guided bit, or MDF or hardboard if you do (I like to use 6mm as it is easy enough to shape and thick enough for a guide. You can use your machine tools to make a perfect piece, and do it as many times as needed until you achieve nirvana. Grain direction on the template piece is irrelevant of course.
Put your template where you want it on your ply and draw round it - check you are happy with the look of the grain now.
Rough cut the piece out - you can use any old saw for this, but make sure you cut far enough out to avoid splintering the faces of the ply. (you can also place a sacrificial cover piece on the board, but that will make it very hard to align your work. Painter's tape will limit splintering, but not prevent it entirely.
You now have an oversize workpiece.
Either:
1. Use a bearing-guided flush trim router bit and that template you made earlier to complete the work (you may need to take several light passes to get to your final dimension); or
1b. Use any straight router bit and a straight edge clamped to your workpiece. Obviously the straight edge needs to be placed with great care. This is remarkably difficult to do exactly.
2. Use the table saw.
This sort of work is a doddle on a sliding table, but without one, you need to emulate it. Make a nice long sled out of spare sheet stock - MDF is best, and run it in your mitre slots. You will then be able to see exactly where the blade will cut and so align your workpiece edge for a perfect placement.
Holding the piece to the sled is not hard - double stick tape, pin nails through the waste for early cuts, hold-downs - all are easy to do.
Note that whilst it is technically possible to rough the work freehand on the table saw, that is unwise as it will tend to bind if you are not very accurate with your cutting, and it may kick back. Best to do it the slow but safe way.
Bob vandyke has a video on this site on how to make cuts like this on a table saw cheers.
Check out Van Dyke's video on the "L" fence. It's simple to make, easy to use, and safe.
Perfect job for an L-fence -or- a track saw.
P.s. I am not a track-saw-extremest but, they do perform some tasks better / safer than some other methods for those of us without 2400mm sliders ;-)
That L-fence tip looks to be exactly what I need. The cleverness of you folks never ceases to amaze me. Thanks!
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled