Replies

1. 
   Alan | May 18, 2004 11:50pm | #1

   Dick,

   Because drying varnish attracts little bits, nits, dust and mots like Tokyo attracts monsters, and to get rid of the plastic-looking surface, all varnish finishes I've ever seen have to be rubbed out.

   Begin with about a 400 grit, or in this case maybe 320 grit, wet and dry sandpaper.  Level the surface with the paper dry.

   When it is flat, use water with a drop or two of soap in it as a lubricant, and sand with the same grit wet and dry paper you used to level the surface.  Dry it off and make sure you have an even scratch pattern; i.e., the entire surface has been sanded and all the heavier scratches removed.  Repeat this with finer wet/dry paper, lubricated with water and soap, up to about 800 grit.  If you want a matte or semi-gloss, try a coat of wax and see if that's the surface sheen you want; if not:

   Use some 0000 steel wool and wool lube.  Rub with the grain.  Again, dry and check the surface.  Wax will make this surface about a semi-gloss.  If you want it glossier:

   Rub out the surface with a felt block and pumice lubricated with paraffin oil.  For a high gloss go to rottenstone, again lubricated with paraffin oil.

   It's not difficult, just time consuming.  It will take a bit of time because of her choice of varnish.  In addition to its other bad qualities, poly is notorious for being difficult to rub out.

   Alan

1. 
   Dick1931 | May 19, 2004 01:43am | #2

   Hi Alan -

   Your response was very informative.  I'll get wet and dry sandpaper, steel wool, etc., and see if Heather would like some free labor.  A guy has got to be nice to the mother of some of his favorite grandchildren. 

   Thanks very much,

   Dick

1. 
   Alan | May 20, 2004 02:23am | #5

   Dick,

   I missed the part about "craters" in the finish.  Does this appear to be "fish eye" or was 'craters' just a description of uneven areas? 

   As already said above, fish eye is caused by a silicone "infection" under the varnish.  If your daughter began with new wood silicone infection is not likely to be the problem.

   If it is fish eye there are things to try before you have to strip the whole piece.  If fish eye isn't the problem, I would do what I described above:  level the surface and then rub it out to the sheen she desires.

   One more thing:  paraffin oil, pumice powder, a felt "sanding" block, rottenstone and wool lube can be a little hard to find.  Your local Ace Hardware won't have them.  You should be able to get them at a store with a first-rate inventory of finishing supplies:  for example, IIRC, Rockler carries them.  Many, perhaps most, of the good catalog and internet stores have them as well.

   Persevere in your quest.  It is worth the extra trouble to have the right stuff.  The right materials make the job easier and the results better.

   Alan

1. 
   Dick1931 | May 20, 2004 03:01am | #6

   Hello Alan -

   I assumed the wood was new because the "buttons' that will cover the bolts holding the rails to the head/footboards had not been stained and finished.  That might or might not have been a good assumption.  I'm very glad you asked that question.  I'll check with Heather this evening.

   Fortunately, there is a Rockler store here in San Diego.  My van almost knows the directions all by itself.  I'll make a call to verify they have the products in stock.

   I agree with you, the right products and good quality is the way to go.

   Thanks again,

   Dick

2. 
   SEBDESN | May 19, 2004 05:01am | #3

    <craters, dust nibs, etc.

   If there are "craters", thats probably fisheye...Remove all finish and coat with zinnser sealcoat, and then start over...(fisheye is usually caused by silcone on the base finish..)

3. 
   Paul_Snyder | May 19, 2004 08:01pm | #4

   Dick,

   I'd sand the finish back until it's level and defect free and then wipe on a coat or two of finish to give it an even sheen.

   Bubbles are a common problem when applying varnish/poly and may account for the craters. If so, sanding them out may take you back to bare wood. If no stain was used, then it's no problem; just sand until the craters are gone.

   I'd use as coarse a grit of paper as needed to do the job efficiently. On large flat surfaces, 220 on a random orbit makes the job quick and easy. I've used 150 grit at times to speed the process. On curves and turnings, I use a fine sanding sponge like the ones that 3M makes.

   Paul