Replies

1. 
   hammer1 | Oct 28, 2010 05:01pm | #1

   Sounds like classic silicone contamination. Sometime, furniture polish with silicone was used on the pieces. It's a problem, particularly with lacquer and open grained species. I don't know of any way to remove the silicone and I've tried a lot of things. Typically, fish eye reducer is added to the lacquer, keep your coats light and your fingers crossed.

1. 
   KateMcCall | Oct 28, 2010 05:43pm | #2

   Thanks. I have tried super thin coats with fish eye eliminator but that's not working either unfortunately.  I absolutely cannot abandon this piece, so I was thinking about trying a different kind of lacquer.  Any suggestions? I have to do something:(

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Oct 28, 2010 06:36pm | #3

   Try shifting to dewaxed shellac, and a couple of quite dry coats before going back to lacquer.  Fisheye eliminator does have a catch 22 element to it.  Typically it contains silicone itself with the goal of making surface tensions of the finish you are applying match that of the silicone containing surface. But, it can contaminate your stray both and guns.   Tis a thorny problem.   

2. 
   roc | Oct 29, 2010 04:25am | #4

   I once thought silicone was a problem

   But this person seems to have it licked. Silicone is just no big deal. For her. http://forums.finewoodworking.com/fine-woodworking-knots/finishing/how-maintain-finish#comment-709651 If they don't respond just send more privet messages. Hard to get their attention some times. No pro am I but you might also consider this: if silicone it will make dimples in the finish where there is no "pore" in the grain between the pores if you like. Unrelated to silicone this could be a temperature related thing. For example if you take the peice from a cool environment into a warmer spray area the atmosphere in the wood could expand and start to come out through the pores in the finish opening them up.

2. 
   Westchester | Oct 29, 2010 03:08pm | #5

   Fish Eye

   Kate

   When using oil based minwax stain and I'm guessing oil based filler -

   followed by lacquer -

   I let everything dry for several days before finishing  and more if the weather is damp. 

   Keep a fan going -

   Did you wipe the stain off well ?

   Spraying multiple costs won't correct an underlying problem

   SA

3. 
   swannyww | Oct 31, 2010 01:50pm | #6

   I have had the same thing happen to a small antique chest that had oil spilled on it from an auction.  i stripped it and stained it and noticed a problem when I applied finish.  I redid this chest 3 times with no answer.  I read somewhere that oxalic acid may solve this problem.  I would test a piece with silicone on it and apply the oxalic acid to see if it clears out the silicone when coated.  I would also call Hoodfinishing.com to see if they have an answer, or any professional shop for refinishing to see if they have an answer.  I have an Ackermans in my area and they sometimes answer question on problems I run across, and they sometimes ask me how to solve a problem as well.

4. 
   MikeIke | Nov 03, 2010 08:35am | #7

   I posted a similar problem several weeks ago. I was refinishing a table top. I levelled the finish, washed with naptha really well, sprayed a couple coats of dewaxed shellac, and tried my product again. Still had the fisheyes. I ended up changing to a different product entirely after 2 iterations of this. I went to an oil based poly, and sprayed two perfect coats. Now, I had some dust to rub out, but the fisheyes were gone. I was using Waterlox, and it seemed that whatever contaminant I was dealing with was too potent to be easily washed away and masked by shellac. Once I changed topcoats, I succeeded.  Good luck. 

5. 
   HowardAcheson | Nov 03, 2010 01:25pm | #8

   Here is the process we used in my shop to deal with silicone contamination.  It's a detailed multi-step process and even that does not guarantee success.

   First, use a chemical paint stripper containing methylene chloride. Follow the directions on the label. Go through the process twice being sure to put the gunk you scrape off in a separate can. Once you have removed all the finish using the stripper wipe the surface down with rags wetted with acetone.  Change the face of the wiper with every stroke or you will just move the contaminates around.  

   Next, you will need to create a barrier between your finsih and any remaining contamination. Buy a couple of cans of Zinsser Spray Can shellac or if you have spray equipment, buy or mix up some dewaxed shellac.  Zinsser SealCoat is a dewaxed shellac.  Spray on two coats being sure to completely cover the surface. Do not sand between or after the coats or you risk destroying the barrier you are trying to make.

   When the shellac has dried, apply your gel stain.  Because the shellac will have sealed the surface, a liquid water or oil stain will not be absorbed into the wood.   Let the gel stain fully dry. Apply the first coat of your clear coat, let it dry 24-48 hours.  Once dry, lightly sand using 320 paper on a flat sanding pad. Sand very lightly. Vacuum and apply a couple of more coats very lightly sanding between coats. Let the table fully cure for 3-4 weeks before subjecting it to any stress or hot or cold or wet dishes.

6. 
   antiquer al | Dec 18, 2014 07:26pm | #9

   I have been a refinisher for 35 years.  I always use fisheye eliminator in my lacquer to get rid of this problem.  In very severe cases (one of which I just had)  I use a mixture of retarder and fisheye eliminator which I put in a Pre-val sprayer and always keep it handy. Also use some retarder in your lacquer along with the fish eye eliminator. As soon as any fish eyes appear I spray another coat of lacquer on the piece and then immediately spray a coat on it from the Pre-val sprayer. This has always worked for me except for two pieces. I had to strip them again, riinse the piece offf with xylene (which got rid of the contaminant), and then finish with lacquer which had the usual amount of fish eye eliminator and retarder in it. Hope this solves your problem.

   The biggest problem currently is finding fish eye eliminator: it has gotten insanely expensive when you do find it and hazardous fees really run the cost up.  Unless you do a lot of refinishing Mohawk is the best solution. From one of their dealers it is about $15-$20 for an ounce bottl Stock  #M716-1601.