Dear All,
Well, another fine mess that I’ve gotten myself into! I’ve agreed to do something that I don’t know how to do! Basically what I need to know is how to cut circles, (I need the “wheel” part) in 1 1/2″ material that will be approximately 6 – 7″ in diameter. The job is paint grade so I am at liberty here. The “circle cutter” , for a drill press, that I saw looked a bit frightening. I am open to all suggestions., but the technique will ned to be pretty efficient as this is a paying job and I will need approximately 30 pieces. The material will either be Western Red Cedar or Spanish Cedar.
Thanks!
John
Replies
What tools do you have available? Can you have a hole in the middle of the circle (through or one side)?
One approach would be a circle cutting jig on a band saw. Basically just a peg on a piece of plywood clamped to the table so the center of the peg is 3.5" from the blade. Cut a 7" square or octogon in your stock, bore a hole the same size as the peg in the middle, turn the piece on the peg.
Pete
Dear Pete,
That sounds most reasonable. The only drawback is lack of bandsaw and experience. I haven't been on a bandsaw in twenty years and I don't own one. Although I could use one! This project might be the excuse. I have looked at a couple. I am not a fan of Delta, but the X-5 seems nice, but the PM is more inclusive. The pocketbook is more like Rigid. More suggestions?
Beyond that, I have a jointer, TS, SCMS, Drill Press, and some odds and ends.Thanks Again!John
Edited 4/8/2006 2:46 pm ET by Jmartinsky
You might want to try a circle cutting jig( sub base for your router )More desireable if you have a plunge router. Also suggest using solid carbide spiral bits, 1/4 or 3/8. Upcut if your cutting in steps, which I would recommend.
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S. Counter Sales, Tech Rep. http://WWW.EAGLEAMERICA.COM
Edited 4/9/2006 7:33 pm ET by BruceS
I'd save up and get something a little better.I've never used one of those drill press circle cutters but I would think it could work and be safe if you have a drill press that will run very slowly.As someone else mentioned, a router jig would also work. The best bit would be a carbide spiral around 1/4"-3/8", although that's not a cheap bit either. Given that you're working cedar, a HSS spiral might do just fine.Pete
The pocketbook is more like Rigid...I have the 18".. I like it ALOT.. Although I broke it but MY stupid mistake. NEVER start a 1 inch blade up when you forgot to set the blade tension! LOL.. Was NOT funny at the time.. But as I look back on it..The only drawback is lack of bandsaw and experience....I have made a lot circles on my table saws. Sizes all over the place. Up to blade height. As the 'stick' gets thicker, the harder it is on the blade.Just be careful! I rough out the circle with whatever (As close as possible to final size) and use a old blade to 'trim' off the edge. You need something to 'pivot' on from center as others have suggested. NOTE: DO NOT TRY to trim off alot of wood.. I think what I'm trying to say is your just 'finishing' the edge to make it true.I have even used a 'skill' saw on a circle guide to do this with good success.
Dear Will,
Thanks for your input. You mentioned that you have the 18" Rigid? Is that ?correct? I thought that they only made a 14". I am not too crazy about making a circle on the tablesaw. I used to be much braver, but age and experience has put some fear into my hands. I have to make a single sample, so I may do that with a router, but if this job goes through, I may be springing for a bandsaw. Then it will be time for a new thread! Thanks Again!John
I used to be much braver, but age and experience has put some fear into my hands.I was married at 18.. SHE was perfect! She passed on.. But I think she was trying to get away from me...I am not too crazy about making a circle on the tablesaw.. Gee a bandsaw can cut a hand off too!I used to be much braver, but age and experience has put some fear into my hands... Hell, I survived NAM! so I think I am invincible!I think I posted BE CAREFULL!EDIT: Nothing is SAFE all the time.. If it is screwed down well, AND you use 'NORMAL' safty procedures I 'think' all will be OK..AGAIN.. just a 'trim' of the stock.. NOT the first cut!
Edited 4/9/2006 11:37 am by WillGeorge
First of all, thank you for your military service. I did all of my fighting in the streets, nothing compared to combat. You boys got a bad deal. Two, sorry about the loss of your bride. Three, I think in your post you used the words "normal" and "screwed down", neither of which are really applicable to me! No, I hear what you are saying, but I am trying to justify a bandsaw purchase here!
All kidding aside, I am sort of leaning towards the bandsaw for the simple fact that I may have to produce a lot of these as well as some arched pieces and the bandsaw would seem to be the most efficient. For the prototype I will use a router. I had an accident that robbed me of some of the feeling in my hands and ever since, I have been wary of the TS in particular. I never realized how much I rely on feel until it wasn't there. For example, I don't feel a piece slipping, I almost have to wait until I see it and by then, a lot can happen.
Thank you again for your service, and again my condolences on your loss.John
John,I haven't decoded SCMS* yet, you don't mention a lathe, & this job sounds dangerous without a bandsaw or lathe. With a lathe, you could turn a cylinder then slice off discs with no center mark at all. That would be safer even than using a bandsaw. If you could use another wood species, you might find a dowel the size you need. The grain direction may be a problem. Sanding & painting may be another problem no matter your process, but a small belt/disc sander should do sanding OK.About bandsaws: I like my bottom-of-the-line Delta 14-inch bandsaw better than any other power tool I own. If it isn't perfect, I can't tell.Cadiddlehopper*Some kind of miter saw?
SCMS is Sliding Compound Miter Saw.If anyone has watched Norm make a round table top, they should remember that he used a bandsaw. However, it's very easy to make a jig for a router or jig saw (saber saw). No need to buy a lathe or anything pricey right away. Think about it in the simplest terms- how do you draw a circle? It's basically the same, only with a flatter device (jig for router or saber saw).For that matter, screw a strip of wood to teh piece, mark where the edge needs to be and hold the saber saw at that point so it won't move as it goes around the circle. No need to overthink this- it's just a circle."I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Edited 4/9/2006 1:23 pm by highfigh
Oops! By the time I posted I had somehow thought that the disc was 1-1/2-inch in diameter. My technique would be good for that but not 1-1/2 thick x 6-7 inches in diameter. Ignore the suggestion, please, even though I have tools which could do it that difficult way at that size.I have cut circles up to 5' with router, bandsaw, and saber saw attached under a board. In this case, a saber saw is probably the best idea so far if the saw blade will cut deep enough and if it will make a cut of acceptable precision. A disc sander could improve on the precision.I used bandsaw & router when making my 5' round table top. I didn't see Norm do it. Norm has any tool he wants to use. I have to make do with fewer tools, so I have to figure out how to do with what I have usually.Cadiddlehopper
Sliding Compound Miter Saw
The router has my vote if you don't have a bandsaw. The jig can be as simple as a hole drilled in the router baseplate to fit over a pin in a piece of scrap plywood. To use it, drill a hole in your stock, fit it over the pin, put the router on the pin, clamp stock to the bench, plunge and rout. Both the disk and the waste will be held. With 1 1/2" thick stock, I'd probably cut halfway through from each side. If you want absolutely perfect edges, use a downshear cutter.
Hi Jmartinsky there are a lot of jigs to cut circles with a router although they get harder to do when the circle is smaller (could be the jig I used). Not as common but you can make a jig to cut circles on a table saw, sounds weird but you basically make a sled that slides on one side of the blade in the miter slot and the piece that gets cut is attached to a pin that allows you to spin the piece the pin is set at half the diamiter of the circle from the blade, an example would be 5 inches from the blade would give you a 10 inch circle. When I have done this I have gotten a very nice cut. Again I would be nervous about doing a small circle. You can also get some pretty big sawtoothed hole saws these are safer for small circles. I am sure I have seen such a jig in this or one of the other wood working magazines. Good luck
Troy
If you have a hand held saber saw, there's probably a hole or slot on each side of the foot. This is to accept an edge guide, but if you can get a piece of metal that's the same size, you could set it up for circle cutting by drilling a hole in it (or fastening a moveable tab that can be tightened) and using a brad nail to anchor it at the center point. It's pretty easy to use and very little stock prep would be needed, just a compass to lay out where you can cut without going into a hole that's already there.
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