Help me design my woodworking shop
I have the unique opportunity to design a home woodworking shop at the site
of my planed new-construction home in Taos, N.M. But before I get started I
wanted to gather the best ideas from Fine Woodworking readers to ensure
that I create a clean, organized, efficient, and well-lighted place, and
avoid the common mistakes in shop design.
The shop will be the ground floor of a two-story building that has an
apartment upstairs. In addition to a woodshop, the ground floor will have a
paint-finish room, wood storage and a small office where I can retreat for
coffee and a football game while the glue dries.
Now I need all your ideas for the following. Please post photos if
available to illustrate your ideas:
– What are the ideal dimensions and footprint for the shop?
– What stationary tools (model numbers) should I buy and how should they
be arranged?
– How should I design the dust-collection system. I want it to reach each
machine with as little clutter as possible.
– I’d like a large assembly table, and I want the tablesaw to have outfeed
support for easy handling of large panels.
– What kind of flooring?
– What kind of ventilation?
– Requirements for the paint room?
– How should I store my hand and power tools efficiently, but also make
thme attractive to look at.
– What kind of wood storage?
I plan to get started building in the next few months, and I will keep you
all posted on the progress and provide pictures of your incorporated
ideas. I intend for this to be the “Ultimate Fine Woodworking Reader’s
Workshop.” So I hope you all can help!
Replies
hello Vamonos97
I will offer a few comments for your project (very nice it sounds)
build as big as building costs allow, but remember you need to heat or ventilate the room. A wooden floor is better to stand on for long periods and kinder to any tool dropped on it. the usual flow of timber preperation will have some bearing on machine location , table/bandsaw to width, cross cut to length, surfacer, thicknesser. and if you can get room to carry out this sequence without carrying the timber back around the last machine you will be doing well. I have found that a few smaller assembly tables are more use than one large one.If you need to drop cramps into spaces or assemble a long counter/bar you can reposition your tables. You don't say what you might be making but I doubt it will be lace bobbins.
best wishes for your project and we look forward to seeing it grow .
regards Tea-bag
Just a link to help you out. The Grizzly Workshop Planner. Make sure your pop-up blocker is off before clicking on the Launch button.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
"What stationary tools (model numbers) should I buy...?" You're kidding, right?
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Ok.one thing. Keep your finish area seperate of course but also I found it really handy to have all your machinery in one area or room and your benches and assembly area in another. Get a good work benck..you wont regret it. It is the most important sigle tool in your shop. Area?? 750 ft/sq is a good sized shop for the average Joe. If you are going in to production, that might be a bit small. All this is offerd to you free as long as the football team you cheer for is the New England Patriots. If it isnt.........everything I offered will self destruct off your screen
Wicked Decent Woodworks
Rochester NH
" If the women dont find you handsome, they should at least find you handy........yessa!"
Whew! What a lot of things to think about. Of course, we assume that you will be looking at all the old FWW issues on small shops, shop layout, etc.
First thing: try to design in as much flexibility as possible. You WILL learn more about what your personal needs are to do the work you want to do than you can imagine now, or any of us can tell you. I designed my shop to be 50% bigger than I thought I needed (30'x40'); it's cramped and has been almost from the beginning. Of course, I didn't know that I'd be able to buy and restore a 26" thickness planer, a 24" jointer, a 36" bandsaw, 2 shapers, mortiser, tenoner, overarm router, 2 shapers, 2 lathes, etc... None of these cost me as much as new small versions would have. Of course, my partner and I are pretty mechanically experienced. Anyway, many of our non-basic machines are on wheels (shapers, overarm router) or near the walls.
Figure that your windows and doors will provide extensions of your shop; I can process (joint, plane, rip) anything up to 10' without opening any windows. Longer than that (up to 16') I just open a window or door. This implies that I aim my stationary machines at the windows and doors.
With 2 of us in the shop, it's really nice to have a machine room and a bench room, so we don't always have to listen to all the noise. With a large enough shop, the interior wall between them is more of a benefit than an obstruction. We've got clamps and tool storage on each side.
I'm a big fan of natural light. This means a balance if possible, with plenty of south facing windows (shaded in the summer) and other window around to balance the light. Both our interior doors have windows in them to help spread the light.
I get all my lumber rough; our process is:
cut to length on radial arm saw (or chop saw)
rip to rough width on bandsaw
joint one face
plane to thickness
joint one edge
rip other edge to width
trim ends
Try to figure out how you can do this without lots of walking and handling. We have our jointer and planer right up against each other. Table saw is nearby, with a walkway between that's suitable for stacking pieces on sawhorses as they get worked on.
I wish I had a finish room...
What kind of duct work are you going to run for the dust collection? We used 4" S&D plastic; ran an uninsulated copper ground wire along all sections. We didn't glue it together (for flexibility in planning and changing.)
I've never regretted the 10'ceiling we planned in; we store a lot of our lumber on racks above machine level (oak 2x6 arms tenoned into oak 4x4s.) A little bit of a pain to get the lumber up and down, but always out of the way.
One of the serious questions you will have to ask yourself is "Am I a perfect woodshop builder, or am I a woodworker?" It takes up a lot of time to set up a woodshop really well, and the more perfectionist you are, the longer it will take you before you do any woodworking, except for clamp racks, tool storage, etc. And there is no way you can avoid "mistakes", i.e., learning what you really need instead of what you think you will need. This is not to downplay planning; just expect to learn some later as well.
One of the things I did when new to woodworking was to visit as many other shops as I could. Asked a few questions, tried not to take up too much time or be too obnoxious. Real life can be pretty educational!
Feel free to ask any more questions.
JHarveyB
Lots of good info here. thanks. I've looked at all the workshop books, on the web, visited other shops, and problem is that starting from scratch, I'm overwhelmed with all the details when put together make a truly functional shop....
The one thing I'd add is that if there's an apartment on the second floor, you should maybe think about soundproofing the first floor ceiling...
I'd say dust collection should be your first priority. There are several books out about DC. You want to work in a place that is clean, safe, and healthy.
Somebody out there on the internet put up a web page with really good info on dust collection. It sounds like more of a rant but it has lots of good info.
(I'm starting to sound like I'm ranting too, sorry.) If you have a wood floor over a basement (don't know if that's possible in NM) you could run your electricals and ductwork through the floor. The DC and it's bags could go in the basement or in a separate room or bump out.
As already mentioned, you should plan your shop in way that makes converting (refining) raw materials into a finished product convenient.
A finishing room/spray booth would be nice to have. That is where your best lights/lighting will have to be. Think about having (tall) double doors for that room.
If you're going to be spraying, you might want to have a huge air compressor somewhere, possibly, in a separate sound insulated room. Then run piping around the shop to hook your spray gun, nail gun, or sanders to.
This whole topic is a book or two in itself, so..... to boil it all down...
You can never have:
too much space
too many clamps
too much light
too many electrical outlets
too much horsepower on a machine
Instead of buying a bunch of brand new machines, consider auctions. Attend enough auctions and you will see too many 3 phase machines. You should be able to get those cheaply enough, cheaper than new machines, and maybe better built. But you'll have to think about getting a phase converter or getting 3ph power.
Good luck!
Congratulations on the opportunity to set up a shop exactly the way you want it. You're certain to get lots of advice here, and most of it will be good. My only suggestion is to include a lot of flexibility in your layout.
After working in dozens of shops, some my own, some others', some that worked, and some that frankly sucked, I thought that I would know exactly what I wanted when I got to layout my "perfect" shop.
What I discovered was that, even after months of careful planning, I was changing things around a week after I started work. Work flows change as projects change, and while we all want consistency in our environment, it's my experience that things need to find their own place and then, eventually settle down.
I'd suggest using mobile bases, and lots of outlets, air taps, and even mobile tool cabinets until you discover where you want things to live.
Tom
Hi Vamonos97
The first thing that I would recommend is that you read
The Workshop Book
The landmark study of the woodworker’s shop
Scott Landis.
I think that you will get a lot of questions answered by studying the book and you will also come up with a lot of questions that you didn't think of before.
Try to identify every type of projects that you may ever want to tackle. Space disappears rather fast. One of my friends likes to build biplanes and when he starts his shop looks like a cavern and when he finishes one it looks like a maze. Give yourself the room.
Read the book! and the only other suggestion I have is install plenty of windows. There is nothing better than natural sunlight in a shop.
Vamonos,
Congrats. I just finished building my own dedicated shop this past year. By completed I mean I can work in it, it will be ten years before everything is how I want it. Just to echo some thoughts of the others and then add some of my own.
Lots of windows, natural light is fantastic. When I built mine, I found a lumber yard with what they called "dead stock", items that were the wrong color, canceled, etc. Anyway, I bought 8 custom casement windows that retailed at around $350 apiece for $100 each. The windows are 26"W x 60"H.
Plan for more outlets than you think can ever use. I have 20 quad outlets in a 1200 sq ft shop. When I got quotes for the electric, one electrician told me that was too many and only gave me an estimate for 10. He didn't get the job.
Figure out what you are going to be doing primarily. I build kitchens, and custom cabinets, so my ideal shop and layout is totally different from someone who only builds jewlery boxes.
Do check auctions, and be creative. I went to an auction recently of a large furniture shop that went out of business. As I watched them sell piece after piece of large machinery, I began to wonder what they were going to do with all the duct work from the dust collection. I asked the manager of the company, made an arrangement to come back a month after the sale and clean out what I needed on my own. I got ducting, blast gates, elbows, etc everything from 8" to 4" for a $1 a foot.
I hope this helps, I will try to post some pics of my shop later.
Eric
Well you asked for photos and as yet have I seen any posted. This is a link to some photos of my shop that I built not long ago. You may be able to spark some ideas from the photos.
http://www.superwoodworks.com/Projects/ShopShots.htm
My shop is 2 story 28x40 on the first floor and 20x40 on the second. It doesn't look like you will be able to use your second floor for the shop. The second floor is an advantage for me. This is were I keep my jigs, special lumper and cut off's. It allows a smaller foot print for heating. I live in an area where it gets cold in the winter, -12 this morning and cutting down on the heat bill is important. The shop cieling is just over 9 foot which has been plenty high todate.
Some of the things I would change should I do it over is
Wood floor would be great.
Dust collection ductwork mostly in the floor.
I hope our comment will help you to create your ultimate shop space. As others have said, go as big as possible. There is never enough space.
Garry
Gary, I noticed you built a full width box for yor contractor saw, does this get in the way of the angle adjustment knob?I have been thinking of doing something similar .
Tim
No problems with the blade angle adjustments. Just can'tsit anything close to handle that it may hit on. If you would like some addional photos let me know, I will take some tonight and send them to you.
http://www.superwoodworks.com
Edited 2/3/2005 10:16 am ET by Garry
Edited 2/3/2005 10:16 am ET by Garry
Rent space for a year or so before you build.
Put your machines in it and make stuff.
This should tell you a lot about what your final shop should be like.
I have 13'x28' for wood storage and my big machines. I also have 12'x24' for wood storage.
I have 26'x24' for my hand tools and finishing.
My hand tool work bench is 2'x8' and is very light in weight, but I can hand plane 150# slabs of wood on it.
I use a bandsaw for most of my work and my table saw sits under dust most of the time.
I can't believe I came to this site to find info on building a shop and a discussion is in progress. I tried the Grizzley site but had problems because my shop is not square or rectangular and I couldn't get the help button to work. I'll try again later. I'll also get the book.
I'm in south central Texas so I'm not going to worry about heating. My shop (and house) is in the middle of a cow pasture (no trees) and on top of a hill so I'll usually get a good breeze. My son and I are going to look at windows in a few minutes.
I'm considering making my own double swing-open doors instead of a store-bought garage door.
One thing I was wondering about is the ceiling. Is it possible to leave the ceiling open to what would normally be an attic so as to use this area as storage? Would that create a cleaning problem.
What about skylights as a source of natural light?
Thanks for all the info. I'll continue to watch this thread.
X,
If you are going with trusses in the ceiling, they need to be designed to carry whatever load you might put there, otherwise you risk damaging them, and that can be a very bad thing to do. It is not inconceivable that you could have failure during a wind loading event if you had heavy loads up there. Point loads are bad things when it comes to a truss. If you do want to go with the storage, make sure the truss manufacturer knows this ahead of time so they can design for that. Your concern about cleaning is also valid, but your in a wood shop - you expect it to be spotless?
My old shop had skylights, and they were OK, but I really like the windows that I have in my new shop. I don't have to worry about the roof leaking, and I have a great view outside. I also have plenty of great light in the shop now. My vote is for as many windows as you can afford and then a couple of more. Also, as others have mentioned, put in at least double the outlets you think you need. My shop has 2 110 Volt circuits in each box at 4' centers and a couple of 220 volt outlets on each wall, and I just barely have enough.
Steve
I'm going to inject something that no one designing a shop ever talks about. What is your process!!??? I tried all the shop layout "thingies" and cut out each machine on paper and arranged it. Never worked out. One day in frustration I began to think about my process. In other words what did I build most of, and what where the steps. If your new to woodworking this will of course be near impossible. IF you have some experience then you have a better chance. In my case my building size was a given 30x60. But I built something on paper and outlined the steps I would take. Knowing the restrictions of my building (narrow and long). I wanted the flow to be down the center. So once I put my process on paper then I layed out my tools. It was the answer for me. It was also a cause for me to design and build an added bench. I call it a machining bench. I can set it up several different ways with bench tools according to what I am doing.
In your case, there are no restrictions. So you can lay out your shop size and the tools needed to fit your process. You can also allow for those things you want to construct in the future as far as tools go.
I'm a woodworker not a writer so I hope this makes sense as it is pretty brief ,the spelling is probably not that good , and its kind of a drive-by post
Dave
Another vote for thinking about your "process" (i.e. work flow) from another Dave. - lol
Sketch your shop and let your imagination take you through a project beginning with getting the materials off your truck and into the shop. As you take this mental journey, mark your sketch to show where you would locate each tool, workbench, etc.
Try to think of every step in the process. For example, turning on the dust collector should force you to think about where it will be located and the tool locations will lead you into how your ducting will be arranged. The tool locations will also dictate how your shop is wired.
No matter how well you do this, you'll still make changes sooner or later...........but it's a good start.
Edited 1/19/2005 7:33 pm ET by Dave
Vamonos97,Not much to add here. Most have said it well. Just think about the process from start to finish and how work will flow from lumber storage to rough milling to finish milling, assembly and finishing. As has been said, dust collection is critical. Plan your system well to avoid bends and turns as much as possible. place the DC so that emptying the bin is close to a door. Power drops from the ceiling for flexibility. At least 8' at the input and output of the TS and planer. Long table for cutoff saw. mobile bases for infrequently used machines. AND don;t forget the widescreen TV and the beer refridge.TDF
When setting up the electrical circuits, shouldn't I figure that other than the lights, DC and air compressor, that generally only one large machine will be running at a time and I could combine several machines on one circuit? Are the 220 outlets for large professional grade machines? I don't know how many 220 outlets I should set up.
> When setting up the electrical circuits, shouldn't I figure that other than the lights, DC and air compressor, that generally only one large machine will be running at a time and I could combine several machines on one circuit?My opinion only:No!No electrical contractor worth hiring would wire more than one 220v piece of machinery on one circuit.From everything you've said so far you're looking at building your "dream" shop. Why cut corners on the electrical service? Do it once; do it right............
From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.
Dennis
I need to disagree with Dennis regarding multiple machines sharing a 220 circuit. I have used very reputable electrical contractors and they were in total agreement that this is safe poractice proving the total rated load of both machine does not exceed 80% the breaker and wiring capacity. Practically speaking, it is rare that I have 2 - 220 machines on the same circuit running at the same time but it happens periodically. If I had a shop with employees constantly running other machines, that would be a different story but for a one-man shop, properly wired and sized for the maxium load, this is simply not a problem.
I did however, size most of my circuits for 30 amps.
Vamonos,
In the past four years I have been lucky to have established 2 dedicated shops ranging between 750 and 900 sq ft. The one lesson I have learned is that unless you have almost unlimited space, whatever you decide will not be right for every project. When I return to my home/shop in Silver City, NM, I will install my fixed wall cabinets, work bench and wood storage and everything else will be mobile to provide flexibility based on the work at hand. I currently have almost everything mobile and modular but not to the degree I would like. I have some heavy equipment including a cabinet saw and 15" planner and good mobile bases have worked well for me.
I also endorse 120 and 220 plugs on as many dedicated circuits as you can reasonable afford placed everywhere and especially in the ceiling. Also, light is wonderful but I have got carried away and ended-up blocking valuable wall space.
Plan doors and windows to take advantage of prevailing winds and solar heating.
If you have the option, there are two schools of thoughts regarding in-floor vs. overhead DC duct work: I would check with experts to determine which provides the most effecient air-handling. If you go in-floor, be sure and provide ready access to the entire run.
I have found that finished walls provide a cleaner working environment. I paint mine in white gloss enamel for light reflection, durability and the mooth surface helps shed the dust.
Try as I might, I never seem to have enough light. Over the bench, in your finish room and where you select your wood, I would install full spectrum elements to aid in wood selection as well in prep and finishing
My assmebly table is on locking casters that nests under the work bench when not is use. The "shop dog" uses it when I'm not making too much noise. Next project is to make another mobile assembly table that I can vertically adjust.
Make your project fun and don't be disappointed when you discover that it isn't what you envisioned.
Doug
One thing I haven't seen mentioned is the ceiling height. I've found having a nine foot ceiling is handy for moving sheet goods around. I don't have to worry so much about banging things into the lights. Higher would be even better, but then you are paying more for building materials and heating and cooling become more expensive.
Although my shop is small (480 sq. ft.), I have unlimited infeed & outfeed on all stationery tools because the upper walls have removeable panels to extend the workpiece outside. (If only I'd learn to stop leaning plywood where it doesn't belong.)
Design for as high a ceiling as is practical - an 8 ft. would be a total PITA.
Take care to make all worktop & tool surfaces a common height (usually 36 inches). A continuous lip on all countertops 3/4" below the top allows you to fashion temporary worksurfaces wherever needed out of waste plywood & a couple pony clamps.
Best of luck.
Hmm… I wonder if they meant to write:
¼ tsp of cayenne pepper instead of ¼ lb ?
Oh well – too late to worry about it now !
I am going to suggest some things the books won't tell you.
First, orient your shop to the sun and calculate your roof overhangs so that you don't get any direct sunlight through the windows in the summer and so that you maximize the direct solar gain in the winter. Your heating and cooling costs will be minimized with a good passive solar design.
Second, put your dust collector in the center of your machine area and organize your tools around the DC. It will result in very short distances between machines and the DC, increasing collection capacity. That means putting lots of electrical boxes in the floor, both 220 and 110. It also means not thinking about putting your machines along the walls. Instead, use the wall space for storage and for moving around your machines. At the same time, don't forget to leave some space open for an assembly area.
But in the last analysis, your layout has to work for you.
-Bob
I part company with people who would suggest a given footprint, area, or even floor configuration. My approach was to first cut out shapes of the equipment I planned to incorporate in my shop, existing and future, drawn to scale and, most importantly including the work space around them. Then-
- What are the ideal dimensions and footprint for the shop?
Picture in your mind's eye how you plan to bring raw materials into the shop either from your wood inventory storage area or directly from the hardwood store. Imagine the work flow from rough lumber through milling and finishing. Arrange your machines, bench(es) and finishing area thought to taking the finished product from rough lumber to the out the door.
Once you've done that, draw the walls around it all and you've got your shop.
- What stationary tools (model numbers) should I buy and how should they be arranged?
With respect to arrangement, see above. As to which ones to buy, that depends to a large degree on the type of work you intend to do. Give us some idea of that and you'll get better response. Which brand or 'model' invokes a chevy vs ford debate. My personal opinion is to buy from a reputable local dealer of any of the major mfr's. You can agonize over Powermatic vs Delta vs General vs Grizzly vs (ad nauseum) and never get anything done.
- How should I design the dust-collection system. I want it to reach each machine with as little clutter as possible.
If your budget is flush, contact the folks at Oneida. They will design your system for you. Their equipment is fairly highly rated. Otherwise do a little homework.
- I'd like a large assembly table, and I want the tablesaw to have outfeed support for easy handling of large panels.
See #1 above.
- What kind of flooring?
I work on a concrete floor. Many people find this objectionable but I don't. I don't know where Taos is but I do know that some areas of NM get kinda cold in the winter. Consider putting in heating tubing in the floor to keep the chill off a concrete slab if that's the way you go. Seek the advice of a professional for design of the slab if you do.
The rest of your questions as far as I'm concerned tend again beg the question of the type of work you intend doing.
From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.
Dennis
Vamonos97,
I too am in the planning stages of a new shop. I will build a 24x24 2 car garage outbuilding with 10' interior ceiling height. I will build a temporary wall over one of the garage doors to increase usable wall cover space and let me put a stationary tool in front of that wall. Like you I am unsure as to where I will place each tool but I want to have the necessary electrical and dust collecting tubing in mind as I construct. The tools I have to consider are a table saw, radial arm, mitre box, joiner, planner, band saw, and a router table. As I am unhappy using the router attached to my table saw.
I will have another 200 amp panel installed to power this building so power will not be ab issue for me.
From my research and use in previous smaller shops, I know the table saw will be somewhat in the middle toward one end with outfeed toward the center of the room, and the radial arm against a wall that will allow me to cut 16' lumber by sticking up to 5' out of the open garage door if needed, but from there I am in a quandry. I want room for wood storage and plenty of cabinets and at least 2 work tables - one higher than the other - and a good sturdy bench. Thus the 10'ceiling will allow me to flip a piece fo plywood and to install my cabinets higher than normal. Perhaps they will even go over some of the stationary tools.
I am asking that any information that you receive to help you in your considerations be shared with me.
Thank you and good luck on your shop.
of the order I will ed the
Will gladly share any info I get on shop design/layout ideas. You can just read this thread, I guess. Basically, it's redundant info for the most part--you can never have enough space, enough lighting and ventilation, etc. But let's stay in touch. I'm thinking about having Oenida (sp) do the desigh for my dust collection system. I want dedicated underfloor dust collection and wiring to each machine, so really hope I get them located right. You're right about table saw...in the center, with big u-table around it to rip 8x4 stuff by yourself; radial arm against the wall in the center to allow trims on long boards; I think the jointer should go to the right of the table saw, and a planer to the left. You juoint first, then cut to size, then plane to thickness....drill press is a good candidate for the corner as is scroll saw. I plan to use table saw extension table as assembly table, with downdraft sanding station....I'll have 14-foot ceilings and big windows for lots of light....after this, I'm still working on details. Max Jennings
Max,
your message sounds encouraging and I agree with your underfloor ideas, except that will not do as my shop must be convertable to a garage later on. Perhaps if I put junction boxes in the wall and then run conduit under the cement from those boxes, the next owner can either diconnect or pull out the wires to preclude any water from shorting out the electrical in the floor. It is worth a thought.
Thanks for being willing to keep me informed. Of course I will be monitoring the thread but at some time I would like to see any other information you collect.
Take care and good luck!
Rod
Howdy,
Once again I too am in the earliest stages possible of designing a woodshop. I'm looking at 2006 before I even make the first physical steps.
It was mentioned early on but Dust Collection, imho, should be your first priority. It will get everywhere including your lungs.
This is the website they were referring to: Bill's Cyclone Dust Collection Research. Yes, it does seem like a rant, but sometimes that is what is needed to get the message through.
The Grizzly site is pretty awesome, but you do need a rectangle of a shop to use it...still pretty awesome.
You may want to check out: rec.woodworking in the Google Groups section.
Good luck and like several others I will be watching this thread with much interest.
Vamanos,
This is the layout of my shop and garage. The shop is roughly 30 X 40 and is OK, but could be a little bigger (when is big enough ever big enough). A couple of things to keep in mind here are that too many windows are never enough - I love all the natural light I get in my shop (I'm located outside of Anchorage, AK).
Use plenty of Electrical outlets. Mine are spaced every 4 feet and I have 2 circuits in each box, plus a couple of 230 volt outlets on each wall. In total, I would guess I have somewhere around 60 110 volt outlets on 10 circuits in the shop and another 35 or so in the garage.
It doesn't show it, but there is a set of french doors opening into the garage next to the bath, and another set on the wall opposite of the office (about 8 feet into the shop). I put my tablesaw in the middle of the shop pointing to the french doors. I do have a trench in the slab for electrical, air, and dust collection, but I screwed up and forgot to put conduit in the slab, so it goes across the floor for a foot or so. Not a huge issue, but it does mean I need to put something on top of that so people don't trip there. Right now, I have my band saw there, but will be moving the dust collector in that area at some point.
I don't know what you are planning for a floor. Mine is a slab with radiant heat in it, and I think it is the greatest thing since sliced bread. Probably overkill for you region, but a slab is a great heat sink - might help to keep that place cool in the summer if the nights get down to something reasonable and you keep the place shut during the days. If you are going with wood floors, you might consider putting an overhead door on the place and a small slab (8X12 or so) inside where you could back a truck in to unload if you ever have to work in the rain. Either way, make sure your exterior doors open plenty wide to get your tools and wood in. I would say a 6' french door is minimum.
Other's have mentioned 9+ foot ceilings. My ceiling is at 10'6" and I would do it again in a heart beat. This height gives me plenty of room to swing boards and panels without worrying too much about hitting the lights.
For lighting, I used 13 4' T-8 florescent fixtures on 3 switches in the main shop. This gives me a ton of flexibility and plenty of light. I seems like a lot, but I have them split up into 3 different switching patterns and it really makes for a comfortable work environment.
You need to consider wood storage. I store my lumber horizontally on racks attached to the middle wall by the office. The wall of the office facing that rack makes a great place for a storage rack. I couldn't find racks that I really liked, so I welded them myself out of angle iron for the uprights and 1" square tube for the arms. I put a 45 degree piece off the bottom of each arm back to the angle to stiffen these, and they really hold a bunch. I have about $150 and 10 hours into my rack and think it is money and time well spent. I am out of town right now, but will try to attach a picture next week.
Finally, you should think about a bathroom and utility closet. If I were only building a shop and was trying to keep it at the 1200 ft area, I would probably kick the total to 32 X 40 and put the bath between the office and my middle wall. This would move the wood rack, but opens up other possibilities for arranging the tools.
Good luck.
Steve
Hello:
I to am in the desing and idea phase of the ultimate shop. Mine will be a 400 sq ft. shop in my detached garage. Taunton Press puts out a few different books on workshops and they cover many of the issues you are asking for. I find them to be extremely helpful in the planning of my shop and I would recomend you getting them. Also, Grizzly.com has a great, easy to use "dream shop" area where you plug in shop dimensions and then you drag and drop images of the various machines they offer and you can see what the shop can look like on paper.
Good Luck,
Bob McGonigle, Milford, CT
As a pattern Maker I have worked in or been in many shops over the years. They seem to all fit into one of three categories of arrangement. First is the layout of putting the machines in either clusters (more later) or a row down the middle of the shop and the benches along the walls. Second is the opposite with the benches down the middle and the machines along the walls. Third is the mindset of just putting machines and benches wherever they seem to fit without regard to workflow or room needed between or around them. The shop I am presently in is designed this way and is the most user unfriendly shop I have ever been in. It seems that most times a shop ends up designed that way because an existing building is used and tried to make the best of. Not the case here, this place was built as a pattern shop from the ground up.
Of these three the first has always proven to be the easiest and most efficient to use. By putting the machines in clusters down the middle you get to maximize the usable space around them which is especially nice when working on long pieces. A typical cluster may be a jointer and planer back to back or a bandsaw, drillpress and disc sander together so that the drillpress column and bandsaw frame are back to back with the sander behind the two, it being short enough that it is lower than the saw table and therefore does not interfere with sawing operations. The other advantage of this is the dust collector only needs one main trunk line down the middle under or in the floor. There is also less walking back and forth between machines. Plan the machine layout so the largest chip makers are closest to the dust collector and machines like sanders are the furthest. The dust collection will work better this way with less chance of clogging. This generally fits well with typical work flow anyway.
I have also seen just about every lumber storage style you could think of. Horizontal dead stacked with the ends showing. Horizontal with the sides showing. Vertical and any combination of these. The shop I am in now does win hands down on lumber storage in my book. The lumber rack is welded up from 1 1/2 pipe in such a way as to form boxes anywhere from 16" wide X 25" tall at floor level to 16" wide X 12" tall at the top with the whole rack being ~8' X 8'. The lumber is slid into the rack on edge with the largest boards at the bottom to the smallest at top and sorted by species from side to side. Every board in the rack is easily accessible this way without needing to move any other board to get to it. The dividers every 16" keep the lumber from falling over as well as keep it sorted. The side of the rack towards the room space is where all the cutoffs and short stuff are stored, again somewhat sorted. This rack has mahogany up to 8/4 X 22" X 20' stored in it and seldom does anything fall over. This system also allows air flow to reach all sides of every board in it at all times. Before we put a new shipment of lumber in the rack we mark the ends of everything presently in the rack with chalk so we know what is acclimated to the shop.
Much good advice has already been given about lighting and outlets. Each shop will be different depending on what you have for machinery and what you plan to build. Leave yourself room to expand and add other machines. Even though you may be the only one using the shop sometimes things like adding a second bandsaw makes sense down the road.
I have rambled enough for now but I do envy you in being able to set up a shop from scratch instead of using what someone else "designed"
RichThe Professional Termite
rich,
Very good info, especially on lumber storage. That's the idea, to be able to see what you have without having to unstack and restack. I'm not exactly sure what it looks like, though....could you explain again how it's made? Is it welded pipe extensions on a frame fastened to the wall? Max
There are three frameworks as I described that are then joined together by pipes running the same direction as the lumber. I think four each at floor level, midheight, and top. Entire rack is ~11' long. More frameworks could be used if you have a lot of shorter stock. Most of what we buy is 12' to 20' so this setup is suficient for us. We did fasten a couple of plywood shelves on the side where the short stuff is. At one time this rack was fastened to the wall but is just freestanding now and I have never seen it move at all. If you need further clarification let me know and I will try to put together a drawing to attach. Looking at it from the end it looks like a bunch of rectangles all stacked side by side and on top of each other.The Professional Termite
Any chance of posting a picture or two of your wood racks?
Thanks
I think I understand how the wood storage rack works, but if you get around to it, a picture would be nice. Seems lots of other folks are interested, too. It's impressive that it's the best system you've seen. Thanks again. Will try to keep you posted on what I end up with, but I'm not starting construction for a few months. In the meantime, I'm accummulating every good idea like this I can. Max
Might be a couple weeks or so before I could get any pictures but I will see what I can do. If I can then I will take some of other machinery and stuff in the shop also. Most of the machinery is homemade and works better than the majority of the factory made stuff.The Professional Termite
HI,
My name is Johnny Eriksson living in Sweden. Myself I am in a process of designing my finewoodworking dreamshop next to the double garage about 100 quare meters large. I got many ideas from reading finewoodworking magazines and have invested heavily in great woodworking machines and festool tools. I am very intertested in your woodshop design and hope to get some new thoughts.
Sincerely,
Johnny
Johnny,
I'll be happy to show you my shop design and would very much like to see yours, and to know what kind of tools you are selecting, etc. I am in the early design stages now, hoping to get many good ideas from the readers of Fine Woodworking on this site. Max
You lucky so and so!
You mentioned flooring in your request for help. If I were lucky enough to be building my dream workshop I would overlay the structural floor with stuff called "marmoleum", it's like linoleum only it's much thicker. It wears really well, is easy to clean and is reasonably solvent proof, I used to work in a print shop and we used it as our floor covering and regularly spilled thinners, strippers and ink waste on it and it always cleaned up really well. It is also useful as it provides some cushioning for your edged tools if you drop them (who wants to spend more time re-sharpening that perfectly honed chisel after you've dropped it on a concrete floor?)
I wish you the best of luck with your project and hope this is of some help to you,
Regards
LaoisJake
My workshop is minute 13 x 9 feet. But if it helps, make a scale drawing of your floorplan and scale footprint cutouts of your anticipated equipment. It is alot easier moving around bits of cardboard than heavy chunks of machinery--this might also influence your choice of purchase--and a lot cheaper on mistakes too.
An alternative to the above is to use the drawing package in Microsoft Word or any decent DTP/office suite, I can give you some help on this if you want.
All the best you lucky ol' devil, best wishes from the little ol' UK.
Happy Chinese New Year, Steve.
I built my own shop several years ago. I love it. Plenty of outlets on as many separate ciruits, already noted. Install an electrical panel with room to add more circuits as needed. Design with the sun in mind if you can. Some windows for natural lighting. Get a nail gun for the framing, you won't regret it. I have storage in the attic space with a pull down, fold out stairway. I have the light switch for the attic space in the ceiling near the stairway. I originally had a phone wired in but last year accidentally cut the line. I went a while without repairing it and realized I'm in my own private world when in my shop so I won't be fixing it any time soon. I wish I had run duct for dust collection beneath the floor and outlets in the floor just in case during construction. Outlets outside your shop on all four sides. On those beautiful days you'll be glad you can work outside. I built the sheet goods storage rack on wheels that was in FWW #160 on Tools and Shops, Page 86. Mine is with the sheet horizonally as opposed to vertically as in the photo. I find this to be a great space saver.
Good luck. Make sure you post photos when you're done.
There are more old drunkards than old doctors. Ben Franklin
3 years ago I built a seperate shop...36 by 48, concrete floor, etc...the real issue I see in your quest is what did we forget among those who have been there...and what would we do differently.
Different:
More 220 circuits and plugs. If I were doing it today, beside every 110 outlet, I would have a 220.
Wood floor. If Doing it today, I would hav excavated, laid a bed of rock over visqueen, and Used 2 by 10s for joists on piers. Id have my DC runs in the floor as well as outlets. Half the building would be wood floor. 1/2 concrete with floor drain.
Lights. Never again will I buy a florescent fixture that does not have electronic ballast. I become mad as a hatter with the buzzing.
Dust Management...Id save till I can afford a Cyclone and 6 inch ducts. I have a bunch of 4 inch and two DC's. One day Ill sell it all and do it right.
A Wood burning stove...I have one but its not in and working. Next year it will be.
Wood Storage...If you cannot get a board out from the front and one end....you will hate it in time.
Prepare to store other "stuff". I will soon build a shlving Unit in myp on one end that will give me 12 feet high by 20 wide y 30 deep shelves with doors on sliders. Think Organization and neatness.
I would strongly encourage you to work and build before you make anything permanent. Trust me you will change over and over
Wall space....think about what you need to hang up...I used 1/2 ply for first 4 feet from floor up and Drywall for balance to cieling.
The same:
Building size and shape. I have 12 foot walls and a white barn siding cieling. I have Lights....three 8foot/2 bulb fixtures run across building...spaced 7 feet apart end to end.
Heat. I have a Lennox LP Furnace. Works great. Windows on one end and front.
Mobile tools. No matter how many times you plan draw, and experiment....You will redo your shop over and over.
Sink and cabinets for coffee, washing up etc. Fridge for refreshments.
Hope that helps
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