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I’m building a piece of knotty pine furniture for a client. They picked out a pigmented oil stain at Sherwin Williams. So far, so good. For some reason, I decided to seal the piece with shellac before staining (the idea being to keep the knots from bleeding through). What a mess. My stain is VERY blotchy. In places where the shellac is thicker, no stain soaks in at all. Where its thinner, the stain gets dark. Have I totally ruined this piece?
The only sure fire fix I can think of is to sand it all WAY down to get past the shellac and stain and start over. This is not an attractive option. Any ideas would be a help.
Thanks
Frank
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Ive never had this problem before, so what Im about to say is just a guess on my part. I have used oil stains as a glaze between coats of shellac. You may be able to do some aggressive, but not excessive sanding, and then use the stain as a glaze/toner. The results will not be as dark as if you stained bare wood, but it probably wont be as splotchy either.
*b From the Workshop of Ron BreseThe shellac should be pretty easy to strip off with a mixture of lacquer and denatured alcohol mixed 1 to 1. I think I would strip it first and then sand it in preparation for stain. If you were trying to use the shellac as a stain blocker you will get better results with a 1 or 2 lb cut applied by spraying. Ron
*when finishing pine you need to use a prestain conditioner first....I use 1 part boiled linseed oil and 6 parts paint thinner...mix together and wipe on liberly...wait about 10-15 minutes and then put on your finish...what happens is that the pine has pockets of pitch or resins that when stained accept the stain differently, by putting a prestain conditioner on you are evening out the ability of the wood to accept the stain reducing the chances of a blotchy finish..
*Frank,I'm with Ron on this one, FWIW. Not only will the shellac help the stain go on evenly, it will act as a sealer/blocker so that you won't get any resin bleed through.Dano
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