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I’ve been working on a Maple and Walnut Chessboard for about 4 months now and I’m finally wrapping up the project. I’m a novice woodworker, and I’ve run into a bit of trouble while trying to rub out a Tung Oil finish on this chessboard. I applied the rottenstone along with Paraffin oil to the surface of the chessboard, and the Rottenstone has become lodged in the pores on the maple squares. Since the Rottenstone is black, and the Maple is white, it looks really bad. Is there any way to remove the Rottenstone from the Maple pores? I’ve tried just about everything I can think of. Please help me if you can! I appreciate any help you can provide.
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Replies
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I'm a little confused as to why after applying tung oil , you then used rottenstone and parrafin oil , or maybe I'm misreading your post. As to getting the rottenstone out of the pores , I think you may have to resort to rescraping and starting over. This time apply a mix of tung and ploy vanish to seal , and when dry (3-4 days) rub out with 600g w/d paper lubed with tung oil. then apply as many coats as needed to build the finish leaving overnight at least to dry between coats. Finally rub out with 0000 steel wool and then wax .
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*Hi Michelle:Oh dear! Unless I've misread this post, you've made a very fundamental mistake..."Rubbing out" is a means of 'polishing' or otherwise adjusting the sheen (or glossiness) of film finishes.Oil finishes are extremely thin (they don't really count as a 'film finish'): rub the finish and you're basically rubbing the surface of the wood. Rottenstone is used like a very fine grade of sandpaper (except in this case, without the paper) in the final stages of rubbing out finishes like: shellac, lacquer, polyurethane or other varnishes.. but not oil!Your best bet is the above mentioned scraping, followed by sanding to the desired smoothness. If your surface wood is too thin for this (i.e. a veneered surface) then you'll want to explore solvents which will loosen up the grit enough to wash/rub it out of the wood. I would try, in the following order: mineral spirits, wood alcohol, methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) or acetone. Just take a bit of the solvent, pour it onto a maple square and then rub it around with a Q-tip. If you see rottenstone lifting out, then great. If not, try a new solvent and go to another square.In the future: sand or scrape the wood up to the smoothness you want (there's little reason to go past 220 grit). Apply tung oil (as in the instructions) by soaking the surface, waiting five minutes and then buff off the excess. Let it dry at least overnight. Repeat for as many coats as desired. Then, apply a coat of paste wax (far superior to paraffin). That's it! No need to rub - that's not what oil is for. 'Hand-rubbed oil finish' is largely a marketing term that has little relationship to the 'rubbed out' finish that woodworkers refer to. Let me know if you have any questions,-t
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