Replies

1. 
   forestgirl | Mar 19, 2005 02:57am | #1

   I think it'd be helpful for us to know why you chose that blade originally -- e.g., what type of cutting were you doing that you felt you needed a carbide-tipped blade? 

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
   Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   dovetail3 | Mar 19, 2005 04:30am | #2

   It was recommended by Jesse at Eagle tools. It really
   cuts quickly where regular blades struggled. If I could
   find a less costly alternative I would be more than pleased.
   I was cutting a log and let it roll into the blade causing it
   it kink. Too bad that had to happen to the only really great
   blade I had. The regular blades just do not compare.
   Ken

1. 
   forestgirl | Mar 19, 2005 07:27pm | #5

   If you're determined to use a CT blade, probably best to build a carriage for the logs to make sure they don't roll.  Otherwise, you're losing any monetary advatage to milling your own wood.  :-(

    forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   WillGeorge | Mar 21, 2005 09:31pm | #13

   Forest got it...build a carriage for the logs to make sure they don't roll!!

1. 
   forestgirl | Mar 22, 2005 08:16pm | #15

   No kidding.  Have to say, even with a sled I can't imagine putting a $100+ blade in a situation like that!  The chances of something happening are too big.  If I had to work a little slower, and use a reasonably-priced blade, so be it.  Save the carbide for squared lumber.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

2. 
   WillGeorge | Mar 26, 2005 05:11am | #21

    I can't imagine putting a $100+ blade in a situation like that! 

   Forest.. I'm a man and lives on the edge!  LOL....

   Forest is so sweet for a woman!

   Edited 3/25/2005 10:12 pm ET by Will George

2. 
   lwj2 | Mar 20, 2005 12:42am | #6

   If you're cutting from logs, is the blade so badly kinked it won't cut or track? If you're rough cutting, will it matter?Can you work the kink out on an anvil?Good luck,Leon Jester

1. 
   dovetail3 | Mar 20, 2005 01:50am | #7

   Tried to but no luck. I can barely see it. It actually
   looks all right and I don't know why I can't get it to align on
   the wheel. I have an 18"Aganazzi and I'm not very mechanical.
   Any ideas?
   Thanks
   Ken

1. 
   lwj2 | Mar 20, 2005 01:56am | #8

   Have you checked to see if your wheels are in alignment with each other and that the bearings are ok and that the wheels are properly balanced?Might want to look at the tires to see if there's a chunk gouged out somehow.One of the older issues of FWW has an article on bandsaw alignment and tuneup, if you can find it, it may be of some help.Good luck,Leon Jester

2. 
   dovetail3 | Mar 20, 2005 02:50am | #9

   Thanks. The blade I installed after the fiasco tracked
   fine. The wheels on the band saw are substantial and
   not likely to move....I think?
   Ken

3. 
   lwj2 | Mar 20, 2005 05:55pm | #10

   That would tend to prove that one.Pity about the carbide blade, Ken. It might be worthwhile calling the factory to see if it could be mended. Worst they can do is tell you it can't.Leon Jester

2. 
   kipper | Mar 19, 2005 11:31am | #3

   Hi

   I use Lenox Trimasters, too. Exensive, though. Simmonds do a similar blade, but I don't know about pricing.

   What about the WoodSlicer that Highland Hardware do? (http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=295) I've heard good things about them, although they ain't going to last as long as a carbide tipped blade, they are a lot cheaper.

   Kipper

3. 
   nikkiwood | Mar 19, 2005 12:22pm | #4

   If you really need a carbide blade, I don't think you will find one for appreciably less money.

4. 
   mike4244 | Mar 20, 2005 11:45pm | #11

   It is very possible that your blade may be useful again. If it is kinked at one spot, cutting the blade and silver soldering or rewelding may work. Your saw may have enough up and down play to accomadate a slightly shorter blade.

   mike

1. 
   dovetail3 | Mar 21, 2005 05:13pm | #12

   Mike:
   Thanks to you and all who replied. I had a class in
   turning yesterday from Steve Dunn and learned carbide
   blades should not be used on green wood. Too bad
   I didn't take the class first.
   Ken

1. 
   WillGeorge | Mar 21, 2005 09:35pm | #14

   learned carbide blades should not be used on green wood..I do that! Geeeeeeee Never lost a blade doing it????

5. 
   JohnWW | Mar 23, 2005 06:11pm | #16

   Suffolk Machinery makes one of their Timberwolf blades that is designed specifically for cutting green wood, it works very well.

   John W.

1. 
   dovetail3 | Mar 23, 2005 06:35pm | #17

   Thanks. That is great to know. I suppose one of
   the catalogs carry the brand?
   Ken

1. 
   JohnWW | Mar 23, 2005 08:41pm | #18

   Dovetail,

   I don't know if Timberwolf blades are in other companies catalogs, but you can buy directly from Suffolk Machinery, so you can avoid going through a middleman.  Their web address is suffolkmachinery.com or you can call them at 1-800-234-7297. 

   I'd recommend calling, the web site isn't all that well laid out, being primarily set up for their industrial customers.  On the phone, the techs at Suffolk Machinery are very helpful.

   John W.

1. 
   dovetail3 | Mar 23, 2005 11:04pm | #19

   John:
   Thank you very much. I just ordered a blade.

6. 
   Peter36 | Mar 24, 2005 12:42pm | #20

   Just imagine that your kink was a snap, and take the blade in to get welded. The last one that I had welded came out 1/4" shorter and it cost me $6.00.  Peter