Replies

1. 
   MBerger | Apr 30, 2008 02:02pm | #1

   Hi Buckeye:

   My first piece of advice is to go out and buy yourself a router. Even a used one. There are so many operations you can do with a router before you ever have to splurge for another tool.

   For example, the best way to strengthen the corner butt joint you described is to make rabbetted butt joints. That way you get more gluing surface, and you can still use biscuits. A router could handle that easily as well as the dado for the bottom panel.

   Short of buying new tools, realistically you could assemble the entire project with biscuits. But it might not last as long as your daughter enjoys playing with the toys inside (depending on her age).

   The dado at the bottom is going to strengthen this project so I'd try to make it with the circ saw. I'd suggest cutting the dado in the material before you cut it into your sides, back and front. That way, all the dadoes will line up. Also, cut the outside shoulders of the dadoes first and then clean up the material between those two cuts. That might afford more precision.

   Does that help? I'd be happy to take another stab at an answer if this isn't what you were looking for.

   Matt

1. 
   BuckeyeChuck | May 06, 2008 02:10am | #2

   Thanks Matt for the advice.  If i cut a rabbet, i am not sure how to handle using the biscuits.  I am worried that with half inch ply, the rabbet will take away too much material for me to cut the slot.  What do you think?

   Thanks again,

1. 
   MBerger | May 06, 2008 02:21am | #3

   Good point.You might be able to use a small-enough sized biscuit to get away with it. Also, the rabbet doesn't have to be too deep to add the extra strength. If I had to make the choice I'd use a rabbet without biscuits over a biscuit without a rabbet.

1. 
   BuckeyeChuck | May 06, 2008 03:20am | #4

   I think you just sold me on the rabbet, now if I could just afford the router.

   Thanks again,

2. 
   Buche | May 08, 2008 12:05am | #5

   Hello Matt,
   how about strengthening the corners with long quarter blocks? you could get a 2x2 and cut it lengthwise with your saw on a 45 degree angle. that way you could get a whole lot of glue surface, especially since the half inch ply doesn't give you a whole lot of glue surface on its own.Cheers,Lars

1. 
   MBerger | May 08, 2008 03:10am | #6

   That's a great solution. And super simple.

1. 
   BuckeyeChuck | May 08, 2008 04:00am | #7

   Hello Matt,

   I am going with the router suggestion you gave me, instead of the biscuit joiner and butt joints.  Since my budget is tight, i would like to use a straight cutting bit to cut the dado for the box bottom, and to cut the rabbett.  Can you use a straight bit to cut the rabbett, instead of a rabbett cutting bit?  I will use a straight edge to guide the router as i cut it.  Thanks, Buckeye Chuck

1. 
   MBerger | May 08, 2008 11:25pm | #8

   You sure can. One straight bit will go along way.

   We published a primer article on choosing straight router bits that will give you some more detail about the specific variaties.

   The straight-edge technique will also work nicely. One trick is to actually make a T-shaped straight-edge out of plywood. (screw one piece to the other at a perfect 90 degrees) That way the cross part of the T can register against the edge of your workpiece, and the fence part will lay on top of the workpiece at a perfect 90 degrees. Another benefit to that type of jig is that when you cut through the material and into the T as you exit the cut, it leaves a cut that you can use to easily line up the jig for subsequent cuts. (does that make sense?)

   Another bit of advice following up with the other advice in this thread. If you cut the bottom dado about 1-1/2 in. from the bottom edge, you can glue some corner blocks underneath the bottom panel to add some extra support to the corner joints. Just a thought.

   Send us a picture when you're done!

   matt

2. 
   BuckeyeChuck | May 09, 2008 05:41pm | #9

   Morning Matt,

   Thanks for your excellent tips, especially about the T square!!  I  will be starting this soon, and will definitely send pics.  Thanks

3. 
   BuckeyeChuck | May 13, 2008 08:16pm | #10

   Morning Matt,

   sorry for all the questions, but here's one more.  I am going to buy a regular router, not a plunge, but I am looking at buying a straight bit for plunging.  Eagle America offers a straight bit for undersized plywood, 31/64 instead of 1/2, but in plunge style.  Can i use a plunge bit in a regular router?  I would think yes, but want to make sure.  Thanks!

4. 
   MBerger | May 22, 2008 02:10pm | #11

   Sorry for the delinquent reply. I'm not exactly sure what a "plunge bit" is? Can you post a link to the bit so I can take a look.

5. 
   saschafer | May 22, 2008 06:47pm | #12

   A plunge bit is one that cuts on the end as well as on the sides. A plunge bit can be driven straight down into the workpiece. Most straight bits are plunge bits.

   -Steve

    

6. 
   MBerger | May 22, 2008 07:26pm | #13

   Thanks for the clarification Steve! Makes sense.