I’m a complete neophyte with woodworking but I want to build a guitar. I have a southern yellow pine body and I’d like a more or less natural finish but I’m confused by all the information online (“you have to grain fill” “don’t grain fill pine,” “use danish wood” “don’t use danish wood” etc. etc. “Use alcohol to raise the grain” “sand to 220” “sand to 1200.”) You get the picture. So what I’m looking for is a natural finish but darker than it is right now – the pine is very bright -. I don’t want a satin finish, but I don’t want to stain it or make it high gloss either. I just need to know the steps I need to take after I finish sanding with 220. What’s next? How best to get the finish I envision?
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Replies
If you haven't already done so, you may want to check out StewMac's aerosol guitar lacquers:
https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/supplies/finishing-supplies/colors-and-tints-and-stains/
Good luck.
dbaile, you're not getting much result here so I'll say something. Pine is difficult to finish well because it gets blotchy (uneven absorption) with stains and because it is a softwood, staining increases the contrast between the light and dark growth rings in a way that you might find unattractive. A top finish (polyurethane, lacquer, or shellac) is mostly for protecting the surface from liquids (like sweat), dings and scratches. Pine will get darker and yellowish after time due to light and oxygen. Shellac and oil-based poly will add some amber to the color. Water based poly and lacquer generally less. But you need the top coat to get a smooth surface. If you use one of those topcoats, you dont need to sand past 220 because the topcoat will smooth out the finish. You can add some dye (like transient) to add more color. But in any case, try different finishes on test pieces first.
Oil finishes are nice for many things, but for a guitar that will be touched and worn, you need more protection. Grain filler makes a surface glassy smooth like a piano top, but isn't necessary unless that is the look you want.
Maybe you can try one of the luthier forums, like Musical Instrument Makers Forum (MIMF.com) for more input.
Something like this?
This is my old growth SYP Tele known as the TherapyCaster.
I built it more than ten years ago and it currently sits less than three feet from me at this very moment.
It's finished in shellac. I did kind of a faux french polish. I hand rubbed amber shellac, in about a 1-1 1/2 lb cut, and then some clear on top of that. It's probably got 20 coats on it? But, as quick as shellac dries, I was putting three or four coats on a day.
I use shellac for every neck I've done since, and on bodies whenever possible. I love shellac as an instrument finish. It feels so spectacular under the hands. It wears to a super silky surface. It does not wear through quickly, at all. It's perfectly safe for human consumption, even! But, it's also a beautiful warm amber color!
Sorry, I didn't see this post sooner! If you have ay questions about building or finishing a guitar in the future, feel free to reach out. I am not a full time luthier or guitar builder, but I have some experience.
Oh, and this was the guitar four years or so ago. I'll try to remember to take a picture of it tonight for a progress photo....
Looks good and pretty much the look I’m after. So did you prepare the wood at all? I’ve seen everything from alcohol rub, to mineral spirits, to grain filler, before any finish goes on. Thanks.
I sanded to 220. Then wiped it down with naptha to get the dust off.
Then, I just started applying thin shellac coats.
My pine was old, cut down in 1855. It had been inside a house since. The sap has turned to a thick resin. It will clog sandpaper quick. But, that quick wipe of naptha cleaned it up nicely for finishing.
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