I’m using a beading tool, and mostly things are pretty good. The biggest problem I’ve having is getting the corners nice. There are two problems I’ve run into, and find no discussion of these issues online, or in the various books (Hack, Watson, etc.) I have. Both problems have to do with beading at corners.
The first problem is efficiently getting a good stop at the end of a cut, going into a corner. That is, I can neatly place the tool at the start of an edge, exactly where I’d like to start the bead. But it’s much more awkward to end it at exactly the right place. The only solution I’ve come up with is to work all the way to final depth, in one direction around a panel or piece, cutting each stretch about 90% of the way to be sure I don’t overshoot. Then I reverse the tool’s fence, and do the last 10% of each stretch, working the other way around. It seems inefficient, but it’s the best solution I’ve come up with that doesn’t leave horrible mistakes and overshoots at each intersection. I’ve tried stops, but they cause pinched fingers and poor cuts at the end, and are difficult on curved sections. Any better ideas?
The second problem is at the start of each bead. If it’s from a stopped start — the bead doesn’t extend off the board — it’s darn near impossible to get the bead really round right at the start of the cut. If I press hard, all I do is force the blade up into the tool. If I reverse, I run into the problem described above — I’m prone to over shooting. For this, I’ve found no solution other than grabbing a gouge or chisel to finish the corner. Does anyone else know what I mean, and a know a solution?
I wanted to mention one other thing. Most writers suggest pushing the tool, but I’ve found it much easier to control with a pull. Anyone else feel that way? Does it point to some deficiency in my technique?
Thanks in advance for any advice!
Replies
John,
As you have found out, a scratch stock is difficult to start and stop. I do as you have done, work from each corner towards the center. The lighter the pressure, the more controllable it is, but then of course it takes longer. The intersections will require a little work with carving tools to refine the profiles. On the push, pull issue, I like to push but in the case of cutting beads on a drawer front or something similar, I work in both directions, so I don't have to reposition the work, as often.
Rob Millard
On the push, pull issue, I like to push but in the case of cutting beads on a drawer front or something similar, I work in both directions, so I don't have to reposition the work, as often.
I think you're using a scratch stock, with the blade set straight up and down, so you can work the left and right side of a board with impunity. I'm using a Stanley 66 type tool, which cants the blade at about (from memory) 15° or so. So when I set the fence, it's on either the left or the right of the blade, I can't just spin it around and work the other end of a groove.
I don't clamp the board down, so just spinning the work to bear against the planing stop works OK for me. Curves of course are a different bear entirely, but I just expect that to take forever. :)
Thanks for the feedback on the intersections issue, work toward centers and carve to finish. I was hoping that somehow, a better idea than what I was able to come up with, was passed on from some distant genius to a generation of apprentices.
You're sure right about taking small bites. On oak, I can't go cross grain and make it look good at all, no matter what I do. On maple, I can, but it takes small increments. The most fun is pulling with the grain on a straight-grained piece. The little square shaving to start the bead is so cute.
Thanks!My goal is for my work to outlast me. Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.
The first problem is efficiently getting a good stop at the end of a cut, going into a corner.
I'd say all it takes is a scrap stick that is clamped tight to the corner and 'go fer it"
but I've found it much easier to control with a pull. Anyone else feel that way?
YEP.. I do..Japan been doing that fer about 4000 years. Am I smarter$ Hardly!
Hi John,
I've used scratch stocks (but not beading tools), and find what works best for me is similar to chopping out mortises - I typically remove the waste from the center first, and true-up the remainder at each end as the last step.
As long as I don't cross a pencil line fairly near each end, most of the profiling is fast, straight forward, and stress free.
Good luck,
-Jazzdogg-
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
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