Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Feb 10, 2006 08:25am | #1

   Spar varnish is quite soft compared to alternatives, I wouldn't use it in this context.  It is designed for flexibility and for UV resistence.  Bur, moisture, any varnish will handle just fine, short of long-standing liquid water.  Over pine, even the most durable polyurethane varnish won't prevent dents and dings.  None-the-less, I think I would consider an oil based polyurethane varnish for a bathroom floor.  Second choice, and a bit better looking, would be a traditional resin varnish.  I wouldn't use a waterborne varnish unless there is a compelling reason to avoid the fumes.  Waterborne finishes have durability with respect to chemicals and moisture more on a par with lacquer than with oil based varnishes.  I think they are getting better--perhaps some may be already good enough for this use, but I don't use them (I make reproductions and so don't have a need for waterborne.) 

   For varnishing, start with a fairly well thinned coat so it can be sanded faster, and then apply two or three additional coats, with drying overnight, and a light sanding between coats should do fine.  If you don't want high gloss, make the last coat semi-gloss. 

1. 
   WillGeorge | Feb 10, 2006 06:07pm | #2

   oil based varnishes like in the other post.. THIN coat...I have 'did' that.. When needed.. Light sanding (not alot of work) and 'wipe' on again..Depends if ya have Childern using that bath.. Then I'd use that stuff they use for lining swimming pools!

2. 
   RickL | Feb 10, 2006 06:13pm | #3

   Try Street Shoe...one of the ones we use commercially for floors.

   http://www.basiccoatings.com/asp/arch_dec/commercial_products.asp