Replies

1. 
   VeniciaL | Jan 26, 2004 06:33pm | #1

   Rich,

   You can spray the stain. If you don't have spray equipment, there are are very low-priced simple spray "guns" available for this sort of use. I've even seen "one-shot" versions at Ace.

   You could also try a method that "retards" shellac. Add a small amount of turpentine to the alcohol mix. I believe it works by slowing down the alcohol evaporation. I don't know if that will help with the lap marks due to the rapid absorption.

   A sealer coat of a very light cut of shellac may also help.

   VL

2. 
   Sphere | Jan 27, 2004 01:29am | #2

   you may re-wet the areas with straight alcohol to dilute the laps..ought blend fairly well, if the color can remain in the vehicle long enough to redistribute.

   Go Stab yourself Ya Putz! Ya think I Parked here?
1. 
   RichC | Jan 28, 2004 09:52pm | #6

   Thanks to all for the responses.

   I talked to a friend who suggested almost the same thing. He told me to mix the alcohol 1:2 with water and use that to blend. He figured that the water would slow the evaporation of the alcohol. It seemed to work fairly well.

   As for using oil or water based stains, I appreciate the input but this project is a kayak that will be given a clear coat of fiberglass and ressin. The ressin is not compatable with oil based stains and the water based analine dyes (which I love) are not UV resistant.

   Thanks again

   Rich

1. 
   Paul_Snyder | Jan 29, 2004 12:37am | #7

   Rich,

   Just a note concerning the fading properties of dyes. The information that water-reduced dyes are not as lightfast as solvents dyes is out of date. Whether reduced in alcohol, acetone, or water, some dyes are more lightfast than others. The best performance can be expected from the metallized aniline dyes (e.g., Trantints/Transfast).

   No dyes are rated for exterior use and will fade over time. Using a coating that contains UV absorbers/blockers will slow the fading.

   Paul

2. 
   scooter1 | Jan 29, 2004 04:20am | #8

   If they aren't compatable, then use a coat of Shellac to seal the oil or water based stain. Shellac is such a wonderfull product, for an undercoat it is a universal sealer, for a top coat is a great finish product, and second best to lacquer for water resistance. It can be applied over anything, save and except wax.

   Regards,

   Boris

   "Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934

3. 
   Paul_Snyder | Jan 27, 2004 03:15am | #3

   If you're applying the dye by hand, take a look at how Jeff Jewitt is applying dye in the article at this link - A&C Finish. To dye a larger area, use a larger rag and keep it wet. Wet all the wood just as quickly as you can; don't try to be neat. If the dye drips/runs onto an adjacent surface, wet that entire surface immediately. When everything is wet, wring out the rag and wipe up any runs or pools.

   Behlen makes a retarder that will evaporate slower giving you more working time.

   To fix the lap marks, wash the wood with liberal amounts of denatured alcohol (the solvent for the dye you're using) and then re-dye.

   Paul

4. 
   scooter1 | Jan 27, 2004 08:22pm | #4

   What testimonial for oil or water based stains!

   Regards,

   Boris

   "Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934

1. 
   Sphere | Jan 27, 2004 08:42pm | #5

   you know it!  A thixotropic gel stain is so nice..hard to go back to anything else.

   Go Stab yourself Ya Putz! Ya think I Parked here?