Replies

1. 
   rckendall | Jul 30, 2003 06:26am | #1

   I found the same problem with both my 64a and my 66. In the case of the 64a, I shimmed behind the plastic to staighten it out, but it was not totally successful.

   The fence on the 66 was true so running the plastic pieces through the planer got me real close. My plan was to replace with birch ply faced with formica but put it off to get on with other things. I am forced to give a little in alignment to prevent pinching at the back of the blade.

   I am looking forward to other postings too.

   Richard

1. 
   BG | Jul 30, 2003 02:32pm | #2

   Richard,

   I have a similar problem with the plastic sides on my shop fox classic.  I did lead a bit (open up) with the fense, however, now I'm getting burn on the waste side of the stock...

   I have not taken the sides off to see how smooth it is underneath.  I'm thinking of ripping with a short fense which might just work the best all the way around... 

1. 
   rckendall | Jul 30, 2003 03:46pm | #3

   BG,

   Thanks for pitching in. I am just becoming aware of short fences, and I wonder why they are not used everywhere. I'm not ready to cut mine down yet, but I do think it would help me also, as I get burning on the waste side occasionally too.

   Can someone give some pro's and con's for short fences?

   Thanks,

   Richard

1. 
   Elcoholic | Jul 30, 2003 10:29pm | #4

   Had the same problem with my Jet Exacta but the main difference was the opportunity cost me $800 less.  Sorry, I couldn't resist that cheap shot.  The fence faces are UHMWPE.  A few passes with my #7 Bailey got them nice and flat and they've stayed that way for 3 years.  I can reference the end of a work piece against the fence and make a shoulder cut with my Fastrack Mitre Gauge that lines up all the way around.  Good enough for me.John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   Life is tough.  It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne

1. 
   rckendall | Jul 31, 2003 06:12am | #6

   John,

   Thanks for that reply, a little lighthearted fun is always welcomed, at least by me.

   And next time my fence needs a tune up I'll try the #7, now that I have one.

   Richard

2. 
   dlwheel | Jul 31, 2003 07:59am | #8

   Thanks for the #7 tip... i'll give it a try with my Clifton. No cracks about Clifton vs. Stanley $$$.

3. 
   Elcoholic | Jul 31, 2003 08:53pm | #9

   "No cracks about Clifton vs. Stanley $$$."

   Sounds like an invitation to me.  I rescued my #7 Bailey from an antique shop for $45.  I bought my #5 from a Street vendor in Tijuana for $35.  I bought an iron for my friend's Clifton convertible for $45 after I tried to "tune it" on a belt sander.  I have paid full pop for the 3 LN's I have so I'm not going to start anything.  Someday I hope to get a nice repro Spiers or Norris.John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   Life is tough.  It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne

4. 
   dlwheel | Aug 01, 2003 05:46am | #12

   Nice job on the planes. I started with #7 and #4 Record that i spruced up with Hock irons and they have done a nice job. Recently i acquired a #7, #6, and #3 Clifton. They are another level beyond the Records. I've got another iron coming for the #3 that i'm going to back bevel 15 deg. and set the frog tight for planing purpleheart and figured maple. i think it can handle it. Problem is, for normal smoothing i'd have to undo things.

   I finally broke down and bought a Shepherd infill smoother. Don't have it yet, but looking forward to seeing how well it does.... i'm a little concerned about no adjuster, though.

   -David

5. 
   riverr1 | Aug 01, 2003 07:19am | #13

   Actually thought this problem was common knowledge concerning the bessy clones with plastic sides. I've read about the problem in a number of different magazine articles about saws and fences.

   About the short fence. A local Delta dealer has a display of all the fences available from delta. All the fences in the display are 14 to 18 inches long. I asked the Delta guys at woodworking net if the display version of the bessy was available to the public and they said no. Too bad. I'd get one.

   Don

6. 
   Elcoholic | Aug 01, 2003 06:20pm | #14

   Ditto on the lack of an adjuster.  I had a lot of trouble getting used to the small LN shoulder plane at first.  I couldn't amke the iron stay put.  Figured out the wedge was a bit too small and shimmed it.  Viola!  Called LN and the nice lady sent me a blank wedge, gratis.  Fit it and no more worries.  I use a very unelegant magnetized tack hammer to tap in the adjustments.  I still prefer an adjuster.  In fact the near-zero backlash combination angle adjuster of the Norris is what I most lust for in a plane.  The L/A adjustable throat LN blockplane is by far my favorite although the #4 LN is a close second.John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   Life is tough.  It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne

7. 
   dlwheel | Aug 09, 2003 08:01am | #15

   I've considered getting the "skew LN" block plane (#140). Do you have any experience with it?

   I suppose my favorite to date is my #3 Clifton... i can make it do just about everything... i just recently acquired a #420 Shoulder (adapted from the Record 073) (Clifton 3/4") and tuned it up tonight... I've got an HNT Gordon 1/2" Shoulder coming soon for delicate small tenons that i do alot of...

   I'm just getting into hand planes... but i'm really enjoying the challange. Charlesworth's books have been a joy to read and digest, in that regard.

   I've looked at a few Norris's on ebay but they are out of my range.... HOW about those Holtey's, though!!!

   -David

2. 
   caoba2 | Jul 31, 2003 06:07am | #5

   David,

   Unfortunately I had the exact same problem. I went as far as calling PM and they sent me a brand new set of face for the fence. This of course didn't resolve the problem. After I installed the new faces and no improvement I checked the fence with the dial indicator and found out that it too was irregular. This was very frustrating considering what the saw cost. I was looking into replacing the fence altogether but couldn't bring myself to spend the money for a good fence. I was looking into making the faces out of baltic birch plywood (like the Biesemeyer) when I came across a cache of Biesemeyers going for $79 for fence, rails and guide tube. They were mismatched but the fence was brand new in the box. They are older models from before Delta acquired them. I installed this fence and Boy what a difference! All fence problems solved. If you are interested I can see if they still have any of these fences left. They even had some Biese's from when they made them for PM. I didn't like the old gold color so I got mine white. In the box  they weigh about 25# for just the fence and 65# for the rails and guide tube.

   Carlos

1. 
   dlwheel | Jul 31, 2003 07:57am | #7

   I contacted PM today and they are supposed to send out a replacement fence assembly. I have my doubts that that will solve the problem... as the base of the fence is "warped".

   Please check on the Bies cache stuff. I'd be willing to opt for that solution... i was also thinking of trying the baltic plywood solution.

   Thanks

3. 
   tbhs1964 | Jul 31, 2003 09:13pm | #10

   First of all, you can always replace the plastic faces with laminated plywood.  These faces will be flat.

   Second, different tightening on the retaining nuts may warp even a flat face.  So be careful.

   Shimming is possible.

   Finally, 0.005 variance?  Are you kidding me?  Wood moves and expands.  The Accufence and Biesemeyer fences are only accurate to 1/64".  Therefore, forget about the variance, throw your dial indicator away , and CUT SOME WOOD!

1. 
   dlwheel | Aug 01, 2003 02:04am | #11

   Rocky,

   Believe it or not i agree with you! I'm all about cutting and fitting... too often too many spend all their time tuning their stuff and not building anything.

   What sparked this was... i had a unisaw with a vega fence and got glass smooth rips... now with my pm66/accufence and the same blade (wwII) i get rough rips... only thing i can attribute it to is the fence with the ripples that are +/- .010...

   What can i say, it makes a visible difference!

   I'm taking my #7 to it, so we'll see...