Replies

1. 
   Mackwood | Aug 06, 2004 05:03am | #1

   LENNY,

   I'll probably catch a lot of flack over this but here goes---

   If there's dried paint on a plane I dab on laquer thinner with a q-tip to soften it up or just chip it off with a sharp plastic scraper.

   After that it's just steel wool and paint thinner on the larger surfaces and paint thinner with a stiff bristle brush (not steel) on the smaller parts.

   Clean the brass parts but don't polish them.  Leave all the patina

   I use a wire wheel on my grinder if there is heavy rust as those items will be user only any way.

   You can remove rust by electrolosis or other methods but all yield a "user" tool as far as I know.

   On the wood parts, I follow the same method to clean and follow with one or two coats of "Maloof" finish.  This is assuming all the original finish is gone.

   If the tool only needs mild cleaning I skip the steel wool altogether and just go with paint thinner and a brush followed by a good dose of camelia oil spread out with an oiled rag.

   The methods above apply to tools that I consider "user" or "user/collector";  the true collector only tools would be treated more carefully but would not be in need of aggressive cleaning in the first place.

   Basic rule I follow is clean the mildest way you can and take your time.

   Enjoy!

   Mack

   Edit:  After the cleaning, the tuning, lapping and sharpening can commence if the tool is destined to be used and not just displayed.

   "WISH IN ONE HAND, #### IN THE OTHER AND SEE WHICH FILLS UP FIRST"

   
   

   ---

   Edited 8/5/2004 10:07 pm ET by Mack

1. 
   NARDO | Aug 06, 2004 06:12am | #5

   THIS PRETTY MUCH WHAT I DO NOW,EXCEPT FOR THE CAMELLIA OIL,GOOD THING I HAVE SOME FOR MY JAPANESE SAWS AND CHISELS ,I'LL GIVE I TRY THANKS LEN

2. 
   JerBear | Aug 06, 2004 05:07am | #2

   Start by purchasing The Handplane Book by Garret Hack.  It not only lists all the different types of planes and their uses but it gives a very comprehensive guide to their repair and restoration.  Great pictures in it as well.

3. 
   jako17 | Aug 06, 2004 06:02am | #3

   If you read Mr Hacks book think twice about some of his suggestions i.e. reshaping the handles .This kind of work negates the value of an old plane.

1. 
   NARDO | Aug 06, 2004 06:10am | #4

   I AGREE 100%.IF YOU CHANGE THE SHAPE OF THE ORIGINAL ITS NOT WORTH SQUAT. THANKS FOR THE ADVIVE,LEN

2. 
   TomHigby | Aug 07, 2004 04:20am | #16

   YOur suggestion would only apply to a collectable piece.  If it's to be used then it should fit the hand that will use it.  If that means modification then so be it.

   Tom

4. 
   UncleDunc | Aug 06, 2004 06:15am | #6

   Please don't post in all caps. It's hard on the eyes. Also, please break your long posts up into paragraphs. Great, gray blocks of text are also hard on they eyes.

   Thanks

5. 
   PlaneWood | Aug 06, 2004 06:19am | #7

   Electrolysis won't remove the patina, but it will remove all the old paint if you use enough current.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)
   PlaneWood

1. 
   Wolfman | Aug 06, 2004 03:32pm | #8

   I recently purchased the video "reclaiming flea market planes" from Highland hardware. Its a twenty minute video with Ernie Conover as host. Very interesting. I've restored several planes to working order but wanted to know how others do it.

   One thing I've wanted to ask Mike from Planewood, the video suggests touching up the jappanning with shellac. Have you heard of this being done? Is there a true clear shellac? I know you use the original jappanning, but for those of us who do this for the fun, would this be advisable?

   B.O.B.

1. 
   PlaneWood | Aug 06, 2004 07:11pm | #10

   B.O.B. -

   Wouldn't hurt.  You could use super blonde dewaxed shellac.

   When it starts to chip or flake, denatured alcohol would strip it off without hurting the underlying japanning.  But, all alcohol has at least 10% water, so the plane would have to be thoroughly dried afterwards before recoating.

   All commercial japanning recipes I know of today leave a satin finish; not like the original recipe. 

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood

1. 
   Wolfman | Aug 06, 2004 08:11pm | #11

   Thanks Mike,

   I'll try it on my old fulton before I apply it to my Bedrock or Baily's. Might need your sevices for a stanley #10 handle. Just bought it on ebay, haven't got it yet, but I know the handle is broke. I see you are closed for August, I am getting married in early September with a long honeymoon (tool shopping) in Italy, so I'll reach out to your website sometime after that.

   B.O.B.

2. 
   nikkiwood | Aug 07, 2004 01:29am | #13

   I have heard about this technique (electrolysis) before, but have never read anything about it.

   Can you tell us how it's done -- and how you avoid electrocuting yourself?

   Thanks.................

1. 
   PlaneWood | Aug 09, 2004 03:22am | #18

   I use a Variac with full wave rectification.  It lets me adjust the current to desired levels (up to 30 amp).  Positive to a sacrificial anode (junk iron) and the negative to the object to be cleansed.  Use 1 heaping teaspoon of baking soda per gallon of water.   At 100 milliamp per sq in of surface, 24 hrs is generally long enough.  However, I have gone up to 3 days for 'rust buckets'.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood

1. 
   bill_1010 | Aug 10, 2004 04:57pm | #19

   Mike, ive got some non woodworking metals that need to be stripped. Ive looked and looked and looked but to no avail have i found the washing soda.  DO you have any sources?

   BTW as not to hijack the thread, Shop Notes has an article within the last year about electrolyisis for restoring hand planes.  DO a search over at shopnotes.com and find the article, it was a great primer on this method.  This method has also been discuseed here several times, do an advanced search

1. 
   UncleDunc | Aug 10, 2004 08:48pm | #20

   I buy washing soda at the grocery store in the same aisle as the laundry detergents. You might also look at the hardware store or the paint store near the TSP. I just Googled one page that said swimming pool supply dealers may have it.

   Alternate names are sal soda and sodium carbonate. NOT bicarbonate, that's baking soda.

   Chemical supply houses would also have it, but they might have a significant minimum purchase. I saw one reference to someone buying a 25 pound bag.

   If you still can't find any, let me know and I can ship you a box.

   Baking soda will also work, according to the sources I've seen. It's just slower.

   Edited 8/10/2004 2:11 pm ET by Uncle Dunc

2. 
   PlaneWood | Aug 11, 2004 04:45am | #21

   WmP -

   I started out using baking soda and used it for about 2 years.  Then I switched to washing soda.  After using that for about 6 months, I switched back to baking soda.

   I got maybe 10% more amperage flow at a giving voltage using washing soda, but not the same cleansing action.  The chemistry of washing soda dictates a slightly higher ion exchange capacity, hence the higher current.

   Any large grocery store should have either one, but I now prefer baking soda.   Using either one I set the voltage to achieve a particular amperage level.  If your limited to just one voltage level, then you might prefer washing soda.  Sometimes I have to kick the voltage up to 25 or 30 volts to achieve the desired amps.  I shoot for about 100 milliamp per sq. in. of exposed suface.  That equates to about 25 amps for a #8 plane.  Running 25 amps, the water will get to about 200 degrees.  Have to add more water quite often.

   Not enough difference between washing an baking soda though to warrant driving an extra mile to get a particular one.

   I've been thinking of getting a current limiter circuit for my setups cause as the water heats up, the current increases.  Only problem there is the expense.    

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood

3. 
   PlaneWood | Aug 11, 2004 04:47am | #22

   ps - I've restored somewhere around 500 planes so far.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood

3. 
   Mackwood | Aug 07, 2004 02:58am | #14

   Have heard the electrolosis process does not harm japanning.  Is this correct?  I've got several "candidates" waiting for my retirement.

   Thanks,

   Mack"WISH IN ONE HAND, #### IN THE OTHER AND SEE WHICH FILLS UP FIRST"

1. 
   PlaneWood | Aug 09, 2004 03:16am | #17

   Mark -

   Well, with a current density of about 100 milliamp per sq in of surface, it will blow everything out of, and off of, the plane; paint included!  Does not change the patina, though.  The hue of the patina is dictated by the environment the cast iron has lived in.  But, yes, electrolysis of any current density will loosen the Japanning.  Some is so thick though that you can't tell it (for a while).

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood

6. 
   Steinmetz | Aug 06, 2004 06:40pm | #9

   LEN, HIT YOUR CAPS LOCK BUTTON ,and use lemon oil like I do. Steinmetz

7. 
   Alan | Aug 07, 2004 12:13am | #12

   Lenny,

   Please don't use  all capital letters in your posts.  I have bad eyes and all capitals make it impossible for me to read for some reason.

   Also, in the convention on the web all caps are reserved for SHOUTING!

   TIA,

   Alan

8. 
   biosf1 | Aug 07, 2004 03:44am | #15

   I saw a guy on the Antique road show with a old stanaly jack plane ,last week, they give him a price it was worth $1200.

   I think they  said it was untouched , not restored and it's worth more, might be better to look into it that.