I have a request for hickory kitchen cabs.
1 island w/ doors and drawers. 2/6×5/0
38lf of cabs – uppers and lowers. (76lf total)
2 – 3/0x7/0 pantries.
2 – 3/0x6/8 interior doors. (2″)
260sf wide plank floor. (T&G)
Everything is to be in shaggy hickory – doors, jambs, drawers, trim, face frames and floor. The carcases will be VIR and MDO. The doors will be 1, 2, 4 or 6 panel (raised) depending on size. The drawers will be 1 or 2 panel (raised), again depending on size. Arched stiles. 18″ radius. I will build, manufacture and install everything. I have a considerable amount of clear 4×18 Q sawn recycled old growth. (about 20/25 years old in slab form) Its’ MC is at 10 to 11% avg.
What I would like to know is:
How stable is the material after resaw? How is it for wear and how well does it finish? Should I stay at 3/4 for the cabs or up it to 7/8 or 4/4?
What are the pluses along with the short comings? Can anyone think of any thing I need to watch out for. What other woods or material is it similar to? Or would it be better to do all of this in another wood. Never done a project like this in hickory. Or… Hold on to to this stuff and find a plan”B”? I have enough elm or aspen to do this project. Grieve over the fact that this is going into a kitchen?
I am under the impression that hickory moves like the tides.
Replies
Hickory does have considerable shrinkage, one of the highest of both domestic and exotic lumbers, in the source I checked. This would lead me to believe that it is unstable. There is a saying about hickory, that you’ll only use it once, and in my case that proved true. The one time I used it, I found it to be the most difficult wood to work with that I had ever used. It was as hard as a rock, burned easily even with sharp tools, and I disliked its large open pores. As to the other questions, it will wear like iron, it finishes nicely with a clear finish, but staining is not the best way to go, and given its high strength ¾” stock would be more than adequate.
Thanks for the heads up.
The reason for the thickness increase was was a stability issue and not so much for strength.
I've used Hickory once and that was for a blind box for 2 flint locks. Much didn't go as well as I had planned but it came out something beautiful. Some fall back and punt was called for. I attributed the difficulties to the lack of experience with the Hickory. The toughest item was the inlays on the top. Learned alot in dressing it down.
I am set to have a mill resaw in to basic demension, after that it's my program. Need to be really sure of my call thicknesses.
Thanks again. IMERC
sharp blades, light cuts with planner, beautiful grain. no harder than white oak can get, as stable as most cabinet woods
Personally I like wood that has character.
If the client truly values difference and character, then build it for them.
Otherwise it would be the wrong wood in the wrong place.
Just my opinion
Hello David...
"Character" is the item of choice. I even plan to match / flow / sweep the character across the face of the cabinates. The upper and lowers will match grain.
Thanks. IMERC
I sell major appliances at HD and I have to know kitchen cabinets and the basic design of laying out a kitchen. Hickory makes for some great looking cabinets and normally you use them for the country style kitchen look with the beadboard panels. There are alot of knots, mineral streaks and defects that add to the look. 3/4" is fine, more then that is overkill. You didn't tell use if you are using full overlay (European) or face frame (American) styling on the cabinets and doors.
2 - 3/0x7/0 pantries. These will go on the end of the runs so not to interfere with the flow if the coutertop and base cabinets.
1 island w/ doors and drawers. 2/6x5/0 Are you installing a cooktop in it? What you can do is make 30" wall cabinets and put a 4" base under them. Your 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 c'top should bring you to the right height.
By the way, what kind of counter top are you going to use?
I just built a kitchen out of "rustic" Hickory ie worm holes and lots of knots. It is a beautiful wood. I used a chestnut O/B stain with a W/B semi finish on it. I recommend that you buy the end panels/doors/drawer fronts rather than making them yourself. Because Hickory is notorious for splitting and tearing out. It really test your patience. But when your done its beautiful. I had to predrill (use a seperate drill after using the kreg jig) my pocket holes. Because the wood would split while assembling the F/F. I used 4/4 material (3/4 finished thickness). It was plenty strong. I will say that it was interesting to use. If I had to do it again I would definately adj the price just because of the workability ( or lack of) of the material. Just my opinion.
Darkworks: No Guns No Butter squilla and the bling bling.
Adjust the price. I like that.... A lot.
With the burns and splitting I had doing the gun box... Egads... Almost didn't get the xmas gift done in time.
I ended up adding 2 trees and another Elk inlay to camoflage the splits. repairing the splits with tinted poxy worked to add some nice "character." So many restarts.
This time no Kreg jig. End fastners. I like the 4/4 frame idea.
I'm almost paranoid about the stability and the possibities of way much too much rework or work for naught. Can't be any worse than building, make that creating, a black walnut hutch and within a week it was pickled off white.
All of this wood came out of a timber frame barn from N Orwell, PA over 20 years ago.
You still haven't said the definitions to your tag line. I'll just keep asking. Email me if you don't want it public.
And if word gets back to the BT crew... I don't know I could handle my rude and crude image being tarnished... ROAR!!
Edited 8/18/2003 3:37:40 PM ET by IMERC
Face frames with the doors and drawers inset with a reverse dust lip on the frames. (2* fit up)
2 - 3/0x7/0 pantries. These will go on the end of the runs so not to interfere with the flow if the coutertop and base cabinets.
How did you know? ... LOL
The island gets a bar sink and the top is to be 4" of end grain Rock Maple set in a diamond pattern instead of square to the base. Exposed brass plumbing. The top is going to have 6'' of over hang out side of the base cab.
All of the counter top is going to be 2'' butcher block done in burl and birds eye maple. These I'll fabricate also. Granite in lay at the sink. This kitchen gets a pair of cook tops (side by side) Pair of over head micros and a pair of stacked built in ovens. The refrigerator (4/0 wide w/o freezer) is to be built in also. This HO is a phenominal cook. She lives and breathes cooking.
BTW. The top elevation is 38" and the toe kicks (6'') will be drawers also. still a 30" cab. Got lucky I guess.
2 - 3/0x7/0 pantries. These will go on the end of the runs so not to interfere with the flow if the coutertop and base cabinets.
How did you know? ... LOL
It's one of the few things I learned in Kitchen Design 101. What you see on a sales floor at any kitchen place is only about 10%-15% of the cabinets avabile.
The island gets a bar sink and the top is to be 4" of end grain Rock Maple set in a diamond pattern instead of square to the base. Exposed brass plumbing. The top is going to have 6'' of over hang out side of the base cab.
I hope you don't plan on putting any chairs under that 6" overhang. Kinda shallow if you are. You need 9" min. 12" is preferred. I love the idea of the drawers in the toe kick. Thats a great way of using that 6". 4/0 frig, must be a Sub-Zero or a Kitchen-Aide. That should fit nicely with 2'' of butcher block done in burl and birds eye maple and not be an eyesore by sticking out to far. Are you using downdrafts for the cooktops? I do hope one of the micro's is an Advantium by GE or convection. Lucky isn't the word for it.
The micros have the built in range hoods.
The refer (Sub-Zero) is going to be flush to the counter tops. I have to pocket the wall.
No stools at the island. Food prep only.
You can use both the OTR and downdraft together if you wish. I have heard of that being done b4. Right now I am trying to convince the better half to get the GE Advantium OTR. I am losing this battle big time. So whats for the first meal and when in honor of The First Lady of the Forest getting hitched? LOL
"Guns and Butter" is what the brothers say " Guns" = Investments" "Butter" = the things you can buy with the investments houses or property for example.
"Squilla"= Money, "Bling bling"= things like watches, jewelry, nice clothes ect...
Darkworks: No Guns No Butter squilla and the bling bling.
Got it..... Cool... Now the pondering can end.
Either I'm too old, disconnected, hang with the wrong (right?) crowd or I missed the movie.
Should have asked Georges' grand kids what that meant... ROAR!!!
Thanks..
After careful consideration....
Since it's me that will probably be doing the cooking....
PB&J. Your choice of bread and all the milk you care to drink.... LOL
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