I have an old chair I am repairing it has just fallen apart. It was put together with dowels and I suspect hide glue. What can I use to soften up the hide glue without maching the surface? ( end grain)
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Replies
Hide glue softens quickly with heat. The easiest thing is a portable hair dryer if you've got one around.
DR
Actually hot water is the trick for hide glue. Here's a site on repairing chairs:
http://www.windsorchairresources.com/tips/T-genl3.html
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Thanks, I will try that.
Hot white vinegar works even better.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Sell your cleverness, Purchase Bewilderment"...Rumi
Hi Forestgirl,
I checked out the link that you provided, and it said something about being sure to remove ALL glue (including hide glue). A short while ago, while I was working on a fabulou$ old 2 1/2" thick mahogany door, I contacted Titebond about their liquid hide glue. The "Tech-ie" (sp?) that I spoke with was very positive about his advise; as long as the remains of the glue do not prevent the joint from fully seating, and that the joint was well-executed in the first place, that one needs NOT to remove the hide glue ... that the new 'wipe' of glue will re-activate it.
If true, this could save folks a lot of time, fussing, etc. ... which is why I decided to post this bit of info (I just hope that it is true!).
FWIW.
-Peter T.
Seems to make sense. As long as the old glue gets re-liquified during the application of the new glue, I'd think it would work. Maybe someone out there with lots of practical experience can confirm (or deny) that.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
FG and all,
That's one reason hide glue is recommended for restoration work. It will soften and bond to old hide glue in re-assembling joints. I seldom try to remove the old glue in a repair, unless it would interfere with getting the joint to close. For instance, if the old glue is present in a thick layer on the shoulder of a tenon, or where a glueblock will be re-attached, I'll take it off so I can pull the joint up tight, or get a wood to wood rub joint. Usually more of an issue with a piece that's been pporly repaired before.
Regards,
Ray
"Usually more of an issue with a piece that's been pporly repaired before." Which happens alot with chairs, LOL! Thanks for the hands-on information, Ray -- good stuff.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
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