Replies

1. 
   MBerger | May 14, 2007 09:01pm | #1

   If I read your question right, it is the hammer veneering you are having trouble with, not the clamp and caul method?

   "I have a few pieces that stuck beautifully, but for the most part I am having trouble with it. Am I doing something wrong?"

   My first response is, join the club. While it may involve less of a monetary investment, hammer veneering with hide glue makes up for those savings in frustration and difficulty. It's one of those things where if you do it a lot, it gets to be easy; if you don't, there's a significant learning curve.

   The consistency of your glue is extremely critical. If you mix it up incorrectly, then it might as well be maple syrup (which, by the way, is the consistency you should be aiming for). Poorly mixed glue won't harden right and won't stick well. Hammer veneering is also a very messy process. Finally, it can be difficult to make large panels because you only have a few minutes of working time, and if you don't get to the entire surface you have a lot of work to do to get rid of air bubbles and the like.

   Regarding your veneer thickness, 1/16 in. is not too thick. I say that because in the old days, when hide glue was the only option, craftsmen resawed their own veneers to about the same thickness you're working with.

   I'm a big fan of the vacuum press, but if you don't want to make that investment, just spend some time improving your clamping press. This article shows a really simple one that works well. If your panel is larger, just add another few layers of MDF. Another trick is to cut notches in the ends of your cauls to the size of your clamp bars. That way, you can slide the loose clamps into place and then go back and tightening them later without worry about the clamps falling out of place.  

   Matt Berger
   Fine Woodworking