Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | May 10, 2007 05:17am | #1

   Sounds like you missed the step where Rob mists the veneer outside with water to keep it from curling.  This is instead of the traditional practice where the hide glue is brushed on BOTH sides of the veneer.  Water is rather neater.  I've only done this a couple of times, Rob about a million, so if he says any thing different listen to him, not me. 

2. 
   RMillard | May 10, 2007 12:43pm | #2

   Sapwood,

   I can honestly say hammer veneering is by far my favorite process in woodworking.

   I know you said that you read my many posts about the process, so I assume that you applied a sizing coat the day before you hammer veneered. This sizing coat does more to ease the process than anything. At times it can seem like you are chasing your tail; you heat, then it bubbles up, then you hammer only to find that the glue has cooled, and needs to be reheated. The way to break this cycle is to hammer it down quickly and then let it sit for a few minutes, then come back heat and try it again. Also, you should start with some tame veneer like straight grain mahogany, which is easy to work with. Some species like birdseye maple are very difficult to hammer veneer (I believe this is because it is rotary cut, but I could be wrong). One of the most difficult times I had hammer veneering was with poplar veneer on a nearly 100 degree day. I assumed it was the heat, but later on a much cooler day, the same poplar veneer wouldn't cooperate any better.

   As far as a video of the method, I'm in the process of making a series of DVD's and one will feature hammer veneering. At the risk of killing my own sales, you'll learn more in a few minutes of actually doing the task, than you could be reading  any article or watching a video.

   By the way, I am goofy, and there are days I'm lucky to make 6 cents per hour.

   Rob Millard

   http://www.americanfederalperiod.com

1. 
   Ron01960 | May 10, 2007 04:15pm | #3

   There is a short clip on FWW by Phil Lowe doing bell flowers and stringing.Just a little more confusion to take in.best of luckRon

1. 
   sapwood | May 10, 2007 09:36pm | #4

   Thanks to all who've responded. I'd like to hear more if anyone has anything....Rob: Yes I did indeed do the pre-size coat. In fact I did two very light coats since this particular veneer was going over plywood edges. It was well sealed before I started the final application. Steve: Thanks for the reminder, but this time I did remember to spritz with water. I have found that like the glue amount, one can over wet the top side. Then it wrinkles the other way. Balance....... Ron: Thanks for the tip. But its the bigger pieces of veneer that really want to rassle.To anyone: I'm frustrated by this hammer veneering process, but not discouraged. My work of the past couple of years has incorporated veneer more and more all the time. I do a lot in my vacuum press, but hammer veneering has a definite place. I will keep practicing. I'd still like to watch someone who's good do it. I'll look forward to Rob's dvd.

3. 
   RMillard | May 11, 2007 02:07pm | #5

   Sapwood,

   I thought a lot about your posting, and think you might try to lower the temperature on your iron. Sometimes even if it doesn't produce a sizzling sound it can be too hot. An iron that is too hot, over liquefies the glue and can lead to the kind of problems you are having. You may also try glue a little bit thicker than what you are using. The down side to thick glue, is it will tend to build up in from the of the hammer and can burst through the veneer if you continue to hammer when it gets to cold( when you hear a crackling sound it is time to stop). Don't worry about having a lot of glue pushed out at the edges and end in front of the hammer. I know this looks like it would cause a glue starved joint, but it doesn't; especially when you've used a sizing.

   I haven't even started on the DVD yet, but it should be done by the middle of June. The subject will be a small candlestand (see photo). If you'd like a copy let me know and I'll send you one.

   Rob Millard

   http://www.americanfederalperiod.com

    

   
1. 
   sapwood | May 11, 2007 07:38pm | #6

   Rob,Thanks for the continuing advice. I have been tinkering with the iron heat setting and it surely was set too high at first. A bit over 140º ought to be right don't you think. I can use my infrared thermometer to check it out. And trial and error of course. The glue thickness is a tricky one. I had it way too thick to start. It was gumming up as I spread it. But the iron did resoften the glue and I got that piece hammered down. There was lots of squeeze out and your right, it does clean up just fine. I finally used some thinner glue and that was much better. I need to experiment more. Perhaps I'll do up some samples and then engage in some destructive testing. I really like the positive hold that the hot glue ultimately gives. The fact that it dries to a rigid state is perfect for veneer. But I'm still not yet ready to say it's my favorite aspect of woodworking.I'd like a copy of the dvd. I'll send you a pm with my contact info. Thanks.As to that candle stand. Very nice. When you do the wedge shaped veneer pieces..... are they hammered from the inside of the "circle" to the outer edge or the other way around? Given the slipperyness of the hot glue at first, it would difficult to keep the veneer tight together. Any movement outward would open adjacent joints, but any hammering inward could cause glue to jam up with nowhere to go. Perhaps I'm over complicating it. I know what you advice will be.... get some veneer and try it. Five minutes in actual work will be worth more than five hours of discussion. you're right