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I am restoring an old machine-made Morris chair, originally assembled with hide glue. The glue had dried out to the point that the chair was literally falling apart. The joinery is mostly butt, reinforced with dowels, so I have a lot of end-grain glue ups to do. I am removing all the old hide glue with “De-glue Goo”, a vinegar based glue solvent, which seems to be working well.
Question: The chair will go back into hard everyday use once restored. Should I use modern yellow glues like Titebond or Elmers’s wood glue, or use “cold” liquid hide glue. Does this stuff work as well as the old fashioned “hot” hide glue? I would like to give some future restorer a chance to repeat the repair process, but I’m not sure the dowel joinery will stand up to hard use over time with hide glue. Advice?
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Replies
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At a guess the chair you are repairing is about 80 years old, and if this is the first major repair I'd say it has held up pretty well. If you don't have access to a glue pot, I'd go with the cold liquid hide glue. It's not quite as strong as hot hide glue, but is pretty good all the same. As it is your intention to make it as easy as possible for a future restorer, then the use of hide glue will be appreciated by that person some time hence. I'd spend a little time making sure the joinery is as good as it can be before you re-glue. Think of it this way if you like. Would you prefer now to be cleaning out epoxy, or PVA, or hide glue? Personally, I'll take the hide glue every time from the point of view of cleaning it off joints. Sliante.
*Alex; It's very refreshing to hear someone ask this question BEFORE they mess up a potentially valuable piece of furniture. You'd be amazed at the number of times I've had to spend extra time on an antique because some "refinisher" used epoxy or some other modern glue for repair work. Hot hide glue is the way to go in my opinion. I heat it up in the microwave(don't let Sgian read this) if I don't need much.( make sure you let it soak in water before you heat it to about 140 degrees. Make sure you use pads on the clamps! Have the neighbors over so they too can enjoy the smell of the stuff. Drew
*Drew, i "I heat it up in the microwave(don't let Sgian read this)"Why? I've been known to do the same, particularly if I just need a wee jolt of the stuff, perhaps not enough to warrant getting the glue pot out. ;-) Sliante.
*Sgian; I'm just kidding. Actually I've been scolded by some of my British friends for doing this. They have wondered how I can criticise the use of a portable belt sander on fine woods, then turn around and heat hide glue in a microwave!
*definitely use hot hide glue. A simple and effective glue pot can be made by making a double boiler out of two appropriately sized cans. Used with an inexpensive electric burner( I payed $7) you will be set.dissolving small amounts of urea into the glue can help extend working time. For those of us weaned on PVA you will be suprised by how fast it can gel in a cool shop.Do not expect the same early high strenth you are accustomed to with PVA, over night clamp time is important. When cured however, it is very strong.Good luck
Hide Glue
Why not use a modern epoxy? Hide glue is good stuff but isn't it rather outdated? If I use epoxy why won't the joints hold together forever instead of breaking down like hide glue??
natural law
I think that falls under Flannigan's Corollary: Any person having a surname of Murphy is, by nature, an optomist. ;-)
hide glue query
funny thing, I just came off of this site
http://www.player-care.com/hide_q-a.html
after being directed there by
http://wwww.wpatrick edwards.com glue article.htm
theres some interesting ?fsvtd in both those sites that are chanfing my perspectives on PVA glues.
Eric in Calgary
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