(Note, I already did a search on Knots, but only got posts related to veneering.) I’m building a small end table, with a lacewood-veneer-on-MDF top. The top will be edged with 13/16″ solid walnut, about 2-1/2″ wide.
This is my first time veneering with MDF as the substrate; normally I use high-quality plywood. The lacewood veneer was applied using a vacuum press and Unibond glue, my usual method.
In the past, I have attached similar edging to veneered tabletops with a plywood substrate using biscuits and liquid hide glue, with very good results. (I like hide glue for its reversability, lack of creep, relatively long open time, etc. — and of course, that great smell!). I was about to do the same on this piece when it struck me that MDF tends to swell with moisture and liquid hide glue (Titebond brand) has a high water content.
What do you think? Is using hide glue to edge join the walnut to the MDF edge a bad idea? Has anyone actually done this, with positive or negative results? The biscuits themselves will swell some in their slots, certainly; I don’t want to compound the problem by causing the MDF to swell. Should I just bite the bullet and use good ol’ yellow PVA glue (which I understand also has some water, but less than hide glue)?
Thanks for your ideas.
David
“The world that was not made is not won by what is done” — Mundaka Upanishad
Replies
I just finished applying an edge banding of white oak veneer to mdf substrate, two 3/4 " pieces glued together to form a 1 and 1/2" thick slab. I had no problem with any swelling, and I used hide glue I mixed from granules. I'm thinking everything is ok.
Thanks creekwood... I think I'll give it a try.
David"The world that was not made is not won by what is done" -- Mundaka Upanishad
I would suggest that you go to http://www.ilovewood.com and post your question to Stephen. He has just published a book on hide glue. Great source of information I might add.
Thanks prman, I'll go over there and take a look at his site.
In the meantime, I decided to go ahead and give it at try... it's a fairly small table top and no great shakes to make another. 48 hours later, it looks just great. There's been no telegraphing of the biscuits through the MDF and the joint appears to be very strong and pretty.
David"The world that was not made is not won by what is done" -- Mundaka Upanishad
You shouldn't have any problem with hide glue and mdf. I just hammer veneered a couple of pieces of red oak to some particle board for flat columns in a desk I am helping a friend with. The only problem was glue coming through the grain of the red oak (should have been white oak and that wouldn't happen) but it cleaned up easily the next day with water. Also veneered a couple of round columns with the same red oak and hide glue.
This desk was made of 1/2" particle board with incredible flame grain red oak. In order to get the veneer for the flat and round columns the pb was sawn off then run through a wide belt sander to remove the rest of the particle board leaving just the veneer.
Stephen Shepherd
ps the book isn't out yet
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled