Replies

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Aug 23, 2004 03:44am | #1

   While I would not recommmend it, two part, A/B bleach is the bleach used to remove color from wood. It is available at most paint stores. Follow the directions.

   The reason I don't recommend it is that there is no garrantee that the bleached wood will match the other wood. Someone who is familier with bleaching can somewhat control the bleaching process but it takes quite a bit of experiance.

   In most cases watnut sapwood is stained to even out the color. Frequently a gel stain is used after sanding of the wood and it is blended in to the darker wood.

   I recommend strongly you get Jeff Jewett's latest book from Taunton Press titled "Taunton's Complete Illustrated Guide to Finishing". It will help you greatly with your finishing.

   Howie.........
2. 
   darbywoods | Aug 23, 2004 03:47am | #2

   jay

   I had the same problem on a coffee table I am making out of solid walnut. the customer wanted all the wood to blend as one. the top is 8/4 walnut as a picture frame to hold a movie poster.  there is a shelf  of 28x46. 

   the legs and top are out of the same piece of walnut, but to get the with I needed 3 pieces of walnut and put them together. 

   what is did was use the dark glue and then when all the sanding was done, I mixed black walnut transtint dye, 2 parts denatured alcohol and 1 part shalck.    when I wiped it on, I had it all blend together, and you can not see the joint.

   David

   http://www.darbynwoods.com

1. 
   JayS | Aug 25, 2004 03:05am | #4

   Why use shellac at the same time?  I was planning to use shellac over the entire piece as a finish, but thought I should get the color evened out in this one area first.  My other quetion is that since all dyes have a different effect at different dilutions and on different woods, there is no way to test the concentration since the particular color of this particular part of the wood is unique, and somewhat streaked.   I don't have another sample.  It's not even the same on the back surface of the wood.  Once it's appied, if it's too dark, it's not easy to lighten.

1. 
   Paul_Snyder | Aug 25, 2004 03:27am | #5

   Mixing the dye with shellac isn't a problem and in this case can be a benefit to you. Start with a 1/2-1 lb. cut of shellac and add a small measured portion of walnut dye. Then brush the colored shellac on an area of a piece of glass and place the glass over the sapwood. If it looks good, you've got your color. If it's too light, add another measure of dye and repeat the test. Better to be a little light than a little dark. It's easier to add color than take it away.

   Paul

   Furniture Finish Wizard

2. 
   darbywoods | Aug 25, 2004 04:23am | #6

   the glass is a great idea.  I use the shellac due to a will put a oil/urethane finish on most of my work,  I use the shellac to cut one step out.  if you dye the wood, it will not make a difference if you have sap wood.  I have also taken some maple scrap to see the color of the dye I am putting on the wood.  a dye is different than a stain.  the dye does not care what color the wood is,

   David

   http://www.darbynwoods.com

1. 
   JayS | Aug 26, 2004 02:09am | #9

   In my experience, the dye definitely cares what color the wood is.  When I apply the same dye over mahogany, light walnut, maple or pine, the final color is different on all of them.  I think there is a chemical interaction of some kind between the wood and dye.  I like the glass idea in theory and will try it.

   Jay

3. 
   Paul_Snyder | Aug 25, 2004 02:07am | #3

   Jay,

   Dyes are usually used to blend sapwood and heartwood. Just the sapwood is dyed. It's called "sap stain."

   A dilute walnut colored dye applied to the sapwood will do a nice job. A touch-up spray gun, air brush, or regular spray gun turned way down does the best job of blending the color.

   Paul

   Furniture Finish Wizard

4. 
   JohnWW | Aug 25, 2004 05:28pm | #7

   Jay,

   Find the area of the wide board where the filler strip you want to use best matches the grain and color of the wide board and split the board there and insert the strip.  This will be the least obvious way to add the strip and you won't be taking the risk associated with trying to stain the filler to match. 

   John W.

5. 
   Jimmbo | Aug 25, 2004 08:43pm | #8

   I know I saw an article within the past year in FWW, maybe by Jeff Jewitt, about hiding heartwood in cherry.   He went through two or three ways to solve your problem.  Check your index.