Replies

1. 
   nikkiwood | Sep 10, 2004 04:34am | #1

   Here are my answers to the questions you pose:

   1) Conbond -- I don't know this particular contact cement, but I am bothered by the spray part (I assume it is in an aerosol can). I prefer to apply with a disposable low nap roller -- 2 coats on the MDF, one on the laminate. For absolutely failproof bonds, I still prefer the old fashioned (highly flammable) stuff -- which I will apply in my garage (to keep it out of the house and away from pilot lights, etc.).

   2) Lay your laminate on a flat surface (the floor will work, if you don't mind being on your knees), clamp a straight edge to it, and score it about five times with a utility knife, then just snap it. There are other ways, but this is the easiest. remember you are just breaking the sheet into a manageable size, not trying to get a "finished" edge.

   3) The curl will go away if you weight if down with a couple of boards (on a flat surface).

   4) It wouldn't hurt to rough up the MDF and applied oak edging, but it is not really necessary.

   5) I actually prefer a regular size router for all the kind of machining you describe. You need buy a laminate trimmer only if you are looking for an excuse to add one to your collection of routers (they are worth having).

   6) When chamfering the edge, chipping will not be a problem -- as long as your bit is sharp. Do about three passes, with the final pass taking off maybe a 1/16". You might also want to file the very edge of the laminate ever so slightly to remove the sharpness. A laminate file works best, but a mill file will work too.

   7) Dowels every 6-8" will work fine (I use 3/4" dowels, which I keep around for this purpose, but 1/2" will work also). I even know some folks who use venetian blind slats, but that is cutting it little too thin for my taste. Just be sure to remove the middle dowels first, and work toward each end -- this will help you avoid air pockets.

   You will find the process is really very easy and straight forward. I am somewhat concerned about your chosen adhesive; but if you got it from a laminate supplier (as opposed to a big box), it should be fine, as long as you follow the instructions.

   Good luck.

   
   

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   Edited 9/9/2004 9:38 pm ET by nikkiwood

1. 
   bones | Sep 10, 2004 04:54am | #2

   Thanks, the adhesive is a commercial product. It has a msds on the label and is very flammable per the label. He also suggested I wear a respirator and properly ventilate the area, which I will. I had requested the roll on type, but the guy at the supplier said the pro's use this it is easier to apply and gets better results. This is a wholesale place to cabinet makers in our area that I was referred to by a local cabinet shop.  The guy originally would not sale to me because he only deals with businesses. When he asked my name I added the word cabinet shop to the end and he happily set me up an account.  I have some spare mdf, and I may even do a trial piece just to practice.  I have never heard of a laminate file, but I will go back to the shop where I bought the laminate and see if they have one.  Thanks again for the advice.

1. 
   nikkiwood | Sep 10, 2004 05:03am | #3

   Those people are pretty reliable, so this cement should do just fine. Just be sure you have enough on hand before you do the job. And however many spray coats you put on the laminate, I would double that for the MDF (because it is more porous).

   I wouldn't bother with a laminate file, unless you see a lot of this work in your future. You only want to break the sharp edge -- so little in fact, that it is hardly perceptible. Even some 120 grit sandpaper on a block will do this.