Replies

1. 
   GHR | Nov 13, 2006 02:20am | #1

   I usually use power tools.

   I laminate the gooseneck from several pieces of wood. Before I glue the laminations I cut the profiles.

   But if hand tools are your choice, several carving tools are useful. Which ones depend on your profile.

1. 
   chamfer | Nov 14, 2006 06:03am | #2

   In the absence of information about the profile of the swan's neck pediment, it isn't possible to offer detailed suggestions as to how to produce it using hand tools. But, it is possible to attest that this is something which can readily be done. In fact, carving the pediment by hand allows a person to include an integral rosette (or some other appropriate medallion) at the terminus of each half of the pediment, if s/he so desires.The principle involved is the same as producing straight mouldings through the use of appropriate planes (plough, rabbet, moving fillister, snipe's bills, and hollows & rounds), but the tools differ because of the curvature of the moulding in this type of pediment. In brief, the various elements of the moulding are first established by creating a series of rabbets, of varying and appropriate widths and depths, which determine the limits of each feature. This can be done in various ways, but I'll briefly outline an approach which uses a minimum of special purpose tools.For layout, a marking gauge which can negotiate curved surfaces will be very helpful. Though, if carefully used, a good compass will serve that purpose. Beyond that, a couple of chisels, and the appropriate carving gouges will suffice. A router plane, used with an outboard block of the same thickness as the pediment stock, will help with the accuracy of the depth of the various rabbets. Though this isn't necessary. Believe it or not, the actual carving of the profile is relatively straightforward if these rabbets are carefully and accurately executed. The one caveat, however, is that you will inevitably encounter grain reversals as you proceed along the profile, so you will need to pay attention to what the wood is telling you about which direction to work. (This reality, of course, is a big part of the reason that these can be difficult to do with machines.)As far as I am aware, the profiles of these pediments often consist of a largish cove element, flanked at the bottom by a bead/astragal, and at the top with another profile (often a smaller cove), capped with a fillet. So, let's briefly walk through the steps involved in producing this profile, in order to help elucidate the general approach to this type of work.The first order of business is to accurately lay out the profile on one (or both, if possible) end(s) of the curved material. This provides a readily available reference from which to determine the width and depth of each element of the profile. In this instance, I would lay out the top fillet with the compass set to the appropriate width and registered against the top edge of the curved stock. Next, assuming the adjacent element is a small cove, I would reset the compass to lay out the width of the small cove (width of the fillet plus the width of the cove), by, again, registering the compass from the top edge of the curved stock. The next step is to mark the depth of this small cove, with a marking gauge, on the lower/inside surface of the curved material. These latter two lines define the limits of the first (fairly shallow, but wide) rabbet to be worked. The bulk of the material can be removed with a relatively quick gouge, working whichever direction necessary, being careful not to go too deep (believe it or not, this is very easy to do!). Follow up by establishing the final depth of the rabbet with the router plane (or a chisel brought in horizontally from the gauged line); and the final width through the use of a "slow" sweep gouge, following along the second pencil line, used to make vertical cuts to establish the sinking, or shoulder of the rabbet. This rabbet, if accurately done, defines the inside terminus of the smaller cove and the outside terminus of the larger cove. Also, of course, the pencil line for the fillet, has already established the outside terminus of the smaller cove.I would repeat this process to establish the approximate middle of the arc of the larger cove. This provides a strong reference point which will allow you to quickly and safely approach the full depth of the arc of the cove. Concomitantly, you will be able to carve most of the cove with a narrower gouge of the appropriate sweep. This allows more variety of direction and orientation with the gouge as you work. Though, even at that, you may find that you need a curved gouge of the appropriate sweep to reach into some of the concave areas.The astragal/bead presents a bit of a wrinkle - which can be approached in a couple of ways. One way would be to do two more rabbets to establish the limits of the bead. The first defines the height of the bead, as well as it's outer/upper limit. This rabbet will be relatively narrow and deep. The second will establish the inner limit of the bead, as well as the depth of the adjacent fillet. It will be both narrow and shallow. The wrinkle comes when you wish to carve in the large cove so as to bring the bead into relief. In this instance, it will be necessary to begin carving the cove down to the level of the top of the bead (as defined by the inside corner of the rabbet), then alternately use a narrow chisel, along the line of the corner of the rabbet, and the gouge to sink the cove down to the appropriate depth to bring the bead into relief. If these reference points are accurately established (take your time getting them right), the actual carving is relatively straightforward - keeping in mind the caveat about grain reversals. You will need a gouge for the small cove, another for the large cove, and yet another for the astragal/bead. Though, you may wish to have a back-bent gouge for some parts of the bead in the concave portions of the curved pediment.I hope this has provided some idea of the general approach to this kind of work. Needless to say, the details will vary according to the actual profile you are planning to use in your swan's neck pediment. I'll be happy to attempt to clarify any murky areas, and/or answer any questions which may arise.Good luck!Don McConnell
   Eureka Springs.

1. 
   alfrodga2 | Nov 14, 2006 09:44pm | #3

   Don

   This kind of answer is  very helpful.

   Thanks for taking the time.

   Saludos Cordiales

   Alfredo

2. 
   GEide | Nov 15, 2006 01:32am | #4

   Dear bedrockman,

    

   “Seems like there was some details in a past issue, but I have been unable to find it.”

    

   Are you thinking of Randall O'Donnell’s three part series on building a Curly Cherry Highboy? He discusses gooseneck molding in FWW #118, “Making the upper case, drawers and gooseneck molding.”

   (http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ProjectsAndDesign/ProjectsAndDesignPDF.aspx?id=2403)

    

   Best wishes in finishing your project!

    

   Gina

   Fine Woodworking

1. 
   bedrockman | Nov 15, 2006 02:54am | #5

   Thanks Gina. The article was by Eugene Landon and the project was a tall case clock Mr. Landon showed the pictures of the molding but gave very little information on how he carved it. Now with the excellent description by Don McConnell (chamfer) as per above response, the pictures start to make sense.

   Edited 7/25/2007 7:53 am ET by bedrockman