Replies

1. 
   DennisS | Apr 17, 2003 09:13am | #1

   There is actually a material made for that sort of thing called graduation filler. Don't know where to find/get it and have never used it, though.

   ...........

   Dennis in Bellevue WA

   [email protected]

1. 
   BrianMcG | Apr 18, 2003 08:26am | #6

   Thanks All! I think I had better start with a good pair of bi focals...jeeeeez..............

2. 
   IanDG | Apr 17, 2003 01:06pm | #2

   I use white oil-based paint -- wipe it on to a cleaned rule then wipe it off to leave the paint in the incised numbers.
   Don't try and clean the excess paint until it has dried -- the solvent will just dilute the paint in the hollows and flood it out over the surface again.
   I use my finger for the wiping -- I suppose a leather pad or something equally non-absorbent would do.

   IanDG

3. 
   BG | Apr 17, 2003 01:51pm | #3

   Brian,

   I treated myself to a Starretts 6" combination...very nice and the small size is more practical for most of my needs.  As important, I believe, there is no glare from the lights on the blade...and the black marks show up nicely.

4. 
   KevinLBS | Apr 18, 2003 12:53am | #4

   Got kids? Use a crayon... Although it's not permanent. Maybe the white-out idea would last longer :)

5. 
   pauld | Apr 18, 2003 03:50am | #5

   Brian,

   Three things work for me:

   1.  Bi-focals

   2.  Bought a few Starrett combination squares with satin finish blades

   3.  After every use, I wipe down my steel tools (combo squares, chisels...) with Camelia Oil.

   Good luck,

   Paul

1. 
   alanplanesaw | Apr 19, 2003 05:26pm | #12

   Tell me something about Camelia oil.  Haven't heard of it.  What does it do?

   Thanks,

   Alan -- planesaw

1. 
   pauld | Apr 19, 2003 07:30pm | #13

   Alan,

   Ah, yes, the virtues of Camelia oil. It's been used for centuries in Japan to preserve the finest steel tools, swords, etc.

   It's a terrific rust-preventative/lubricant that's derived from the Camelia plant. The fact that it's a vegetable oil, and not a petrolium product, means that, unlike machine oil, if a little of this oil migrates from a plane iron or chisel to an unfinished wood surface, it's not likely to interfere with your finish. It's also non-toxic.

   In Japan, it's traditionally "stored" in a short (3" - 4") length of bamboo, into which has been inserted layer upon layer of tightly-rolled fabric which is subsequently moistened with Camelia oil; the bamboo container is held in the hand and the saturated fabric is wiped against the sword, plane iron, chisel, etc.

   The bamboo is quaint and works well. However, I use a plastic jar with a threaded lid so my applicator won't become contaimnated with sawdust and goodness knows what else, and the stuff in my tool bag won't absorb all of my expensive Camelia oil through unintentional contct with the applicator.

   Camelia oil isn't cheap, but used with an applicator as described above, it'll last a long time. I think I paid about $12.00 for my last bottle which contains perhaps 250ml.

   Camelia oil is available through the Japan Woodworker, Rockler, and several other sources.

   Hope this was the kind of information you were looking for,

   Paul

1. 
   alanplanesaw | Apr 19, 2003 11:26pm | #14

   Thanks for continuing my education.  Will look for some.

6. 
   Wateren | Apr 18, 2003 08:46pm | #7

   Brian

   I have used rust paint from a can (Tremclad or hardware store house brand) for this, though not on combo square.

   I goobered it over the indentations then wiped the flat off. In my case there was a smear left on the flat - you could sand it with very fine paper and a block after it had dried completely, I didn't bother. I used red but white would show up better.

   Cheers, Chris

1. 
   Elcoholic | Apr 18, 2003 09:57pm | #8

   I am with the other posters on the Starret combo squares, very legible.  Gun bluing would probably be a good choice.  It stands up to the oils and solvents used in gun cleaning.John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   Life is tough.  It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne

1. 
   BrianMcG | Apr 19, 2003 07:43am | #10

   Thanks, Sounds good.

2. 
   BrianMcG | Apr 19, 2003 07:42am | #9

   Thanks Chris!  Not really sure what "rust paint" is tho...like rustolium? Or a rust inhibiting paint? Brian

1. 
   Wateren | Apr 19, 2003 05:14pm | #11

   Yep, Rustoleum. We have 'Tremclad' brand, or the hardware chains have their own brands. Sears or Wal-Mart might have their own brands. The kind of stuff you would paint an outdoor iron railing with, or re-paint the steel tricycle, or the garden spade (which some people do). They used to advertise Tremclad on television during the hockey games by showing big front-end loaders moving dirt and stone, sorta saying 'If it's good enough for this, it's good enough for your garden spade...'

   Cheers, Chris.

7. 
   BRichardso2 | Apr 20, 2003 07:00am | #15

   I have always used drywall powdered spackle for this purpose.  Wipe it on, let it dry and later rub away the excess.  Don't use white caulk or bathtub caulk.  Been there done that, spackle works for me on my carpenters rulers/squares and on electric tools after incising my name and info on them. 

1. 
   BrianMcG | Apr 20, 2003 08:06am | #16

   Thanks, sounds good and not as messy as some. Brian