Replies

1. 
   hotdogman | Aug 30, 2020 08:31am | #1

   Blum makes an overlay hinge adjustable to from 1/2 to 3/4 inches overlay. I have used them with success to get very little of the face frame showing. I suggest you call Rockler technical support and they will be able to help you decide which hinge to use.

2. 
   drew_z | Aug 30, 2020 08:44am | #2

   You'll need to use a face mounted euro cup hinge. A plate mounted hinge inside the box will not allow for that large a hinge-side overlay. This from Blum has a 1 3/8" minimum hinge-side overlay which should work for your application it sounds like:
   https://www.hardwaresource.com/blum-blumotion-compact-hinge-face-mount.html

3. 
   john_c2 | Aug 30, 2020 10:00am | #3

   Blum makes wonderful products. Euro hinges, drawer slides. It's all excellent. They have hinges that work great for what you need.

   Blum instructions and website are terrible. They really, really need to have someone new rewrite everything. Trying to find the right product, and how to install it, is a little maddening.

   Once you have the right product and have hung one door or drawer, it couldn't be easier. Maybe that's why they don't bother updating their print products. Most Blum hardware is used by professionals, and they do this stuff so often it's second nature.

   Stuck with it. Try calling Rockler. You'll figure it out. I just wish it didn't need to be so difficult.

4. 
   godelescher | Aug 30, 2020 06:30pm | #4

   With 1-1/2" face frames, I would stick with 1-1/4" overlay cup hinges (there are other options than Blum, but they're basically all the same).

   Doors can bind if they're too close together. In the attached photo, I'm using the same set up; 1-1/4" overlay hinges on 1-1/2" faceframes.

   The hinges are also 3-way adjustable up to 1/8", so you can cheat some gaps if necessary

   
5. 
   esch5995 | Aug 31, 2020 02:18am | #5

   It can be overwhelming for the uninitiated, but with a little insight in can be managed. While the typical overlay with 1½" face frames would be 1⅜" leaving an ⅛" of frame exposed and ¼" gap between adjoining cabinets more than enough clearance for the doors to operate while more closely matching the typical ⅛" gap between butt doors and drawers. To suggest a specific hinge more details are needed.
   Here a few questions you need to answer.

   Do you want soft closing features?

   How far do you want the doors to open? This is expressed in degrees usually from 95°-170° with 110° being common. Keep in mind if a door is in a corner or next to a wall you might want to use 95° hinges in these locations even if you opt for a wider opening option elsewhere. This keeps hardware and doors from being damages from opening the door too far.

   Do you want clip on mounting? This can be very convenient if you want to install or transport the cabinets without the doors installed. The doors can be adjusted in your shop, the doors removed then clip back in place after installation and need only minor adjustments. They are also great if you work alone because making the doors easily Removable greatly reduces the cabinet weight for installation and handling, but they do cost more.

   As for brand you can't go wrong with Blum but there are other quality options as well. Do you have a jig or guide to assist you in drilling the holes? While many manufacturers use the Blum pattern you can't take that for granted. So buy a brand that works with your jig(if you don't have one I strongly suggest getting one if you are installing any number of doors)

6. 
   user-7094555 | Sep 01, 2020 06:44am | #6

   This is all really great advice. Ironically, I’ll probably wind up going with inset hinges. But, I am glad I asked because I wouldn’t have thought to call rockler. So far, the most confusing thing about building kitchen cabinets has definitely been selecting the right hardware.