Replies

1. 
   joinerswork | Feb 14, 2006 04:56pm | #1

   bares,

   It's not too critical on a blanket chest as the lid will likely never be opened past 90* or so.  Standard procedure will project the barrel of the hinge so it is sticking out half its diameter.  In other words, half the hinge pin is outside the line of the back of the chest.  For a door that fully opens, I like to have slightly more than half the pin's diameter projecting from the case, so the door will not bind on the hinges when opened 180*.

   While the traditional support for a blanket chest lid is to flip up the lid of the "till" and lean the lid forward against it, I prefer to attach a length of brass chain to the inside of the case and the underside of the lid, to prevent it from falling backward and breaking out the hinges, should it be dropped.  If you attach the chain to the lid so it is inboard of the case side, it will drape itself into the case as the lid is closed.  Other, modern lid supports are of couse also available.

   Regards,

   Ray Pine

1. 
   bares | Feb 15, 2006 05:25am | #2

   Thank you for your help.  I am on a steep learning curve.  This chest is my first larger piece and it's been an experience.

    

   Appreciate the advice on the chain.  I suspect that this chest might get some use as a toy box as well so I am planning to install a closing mechanism.

    

   Again, thanks.

    

     

1. 
   joinerswork | Feb 15, 2006 03:59pm | #4

   bares,

   You're welcome.

   Definitely use a mechanical support if using as a toy chest.

   Regards,

   Ray

2. 
   Steinmetz | Feb 15, 2006 05:52am | #3

   Bares, be careful when designing toy or blanket chests. Especially if made for smaller kiddies. An unbalanced dropping lid can do a job on tiny fingers and heads.

   They make special spring balanced lid supports that do the job of chain, but have to be physically forced down to close. They are bronze in color and are 'handed' (That is, RH or LH)
   If the lid is heavier enough, use one of each
   Inside surface mounted
   They provide a paper template to mark out the screw positions before attaching.

   I believe their use is mandatory for manufacturers of children's toy chests.
   Rockler has them. item # 33027
   Steinmetz.
   If the chest is more than three feet wide, use three hinges To prevent warping of the lid never use a snap type locking device.

   Edited 2/14/2006 10:03 pm ET by Steinmetz

   
   

   ---

   Edited 2/14/2006 10:04 pm ET by Steinmetz

1. 
   bares | Feb 15, 2006 05:55pm | #5

   Appreciate your help.

    

   I have ordered a lid support from Lee Valley to use since I do not want grandson to get fingers smashed.

    

    

   Again, thanks.

1. 
   John_D | Feb 15, 2006 11:10pm | #6

   If he's small enough to crawl inside, you might want to consider a gap between lid and box, or air holes.My goal is for my work to outlast me.  Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.

1. 
   bares | Feb 16, 2006 05:19am | #7

   Had not thought of that.  Thank you.

1. 
   John_D | Feb 16, 2006 01:36pm | #8

   Well, I didn't think of it either.  I'm working on a pair of toy boxes for my twins, and my wife pointed that out. :)My goal is for my work to outlast me.  Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.

3. 
   WillGeorge | Feb 20, 2006 08:59pm | #9

   where to position ??
   I would divide in 1/2 then from center put them about 4 inches from the corners.. As stated in another post.. Not sure it matter alot..

   If a LONG top I'd use 3 or 4 hinges.. Just me