Replies

1. 
   Steinmetz | Jun 24, 2003 06:01am | #1

   Mike, If you have a router with a adjustable fence and a 1/2" hinge routing bit,this will help you.

   Since I've hung many hundreds of wood doors in my 50 or so years in the trade, I made my own templates to do just that.

    Since your router's base is 6"in diameter, and the router bit is 1/2",the distance from the 'cut line'is exactly 2-3/4".  Rip up a few pieces of 1/8" tempered masonitei nto exactly 1- 3/4" x1- 3/4"Squares.

   They will be invaluable whenever you want to make templates,jigs and guides for routing rectangular holes or plates (larger than 6- 1/2")

   To make a hinge router template ,                 (Make three)

   Cut some walnut 1-1/4 "wide x 1/4" thick:

   For hinges sized 3- 1/2x 3- 1/2",

     you'll need: Six pieces x 4"x 1-1/4"

   and three pieces x 11-1/2"

   These 3 pieces, when nailed and glued together, will look like a square letter 'C' the two short ones nailed at right angles to the top of the horrizontal one and spaced apart exactly as wide as the hinge plus two 'cut line' spacers.3-1/2 + 2-3/4 +2-3/4 =9" opening.

   These templates are tacked, (with brads) to the hinge edge edge of the door . Set your router fence to cut all but 1/4"into the door and 1/8" deep

   Start at your left and run straight in to the1/4" 'reveal' then continue along the reveal to the right.

   Lift the router out and rout the right edge in.

   Now starting at the left again, just make a few left to right advance etc etc and you're finished.

   
   

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   Edited 6/23/2003 11:05:44 PM ET by steinmetz

2. 
   Manchild | Jun 24, 2003 06:02am | #2

   If all the hinges are the same you could make a template yourself with 1/4" ply. Are you replacing all the hinges? I used the Bosch a long time ago. It could be adjusted for different hinges and spacing. I also beveled both sides of the door. The latch side is obvious but the hinge side is less so. If the jam is twisted at all or if the screws are proud of the hinge leaf the door is what is called hinge bound. You can tell if when closing the door there is resistance at the last bit. If you look at the hinge while closing it during this last bit the hinge barrels will move over a bit. If 5 degrees seems like to much then do half that. How are you going to cut the doors? Do you have a jig for your portable saw? Have fun and keep us posted!

   
   

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   Edited 6/23/2003 11:19:27 PM ET by david

3. 
   Steinmetz | Jun 24, 2003 06:39am | #3

   Mike, here's more info:

   When routing hinges, think 5&10

   From top of door to top of top hinge5"                                                           

   From bottom of door to bottom of lower hinge-10"

   Middle hinge's bottom is located at the midpoint of the others.

   I use a 'Story pole' to lay out for hinges on both the jambs and the doors.

   It's a straight length of lattice strip about 6'-6" long.

   The top hinge's rabbet is 1/8" lower than the top rabbet on the door (Clearance) so, when laying out the hinge marks place a nickel, or an 1/8" shim on top of the pole.

   Use a square to mark the three toplines (Only) With a utility knife bring this line all the way across so you can use it on both left AND right hand doors and jambs.

   Mark the top of pole so you don't make any mistakes

   I cut the bottom to a point to avoid any boo-boos.

   If you can, mark all the jambs first and note their hand and width.  IE: 2'-8" LH

   Rout these hinges using the same templates, but adjust the fence to go deeper into the room.(I-1/4" more)

   Mark the door's  Masking tape) tops and hands and sizes to corrospond with their jambs and locations.

   Then rout the doors hinges and don't forget to reset the fence for the 1/4" reveal.

4. 
   Steinmetz | Jun 24, 2003 07:05am | #4

   It's me again Mike. If your door  is beveled (As they should be), don't use the paper template that comes with the lock.

   At a height of 38" above the door/doors, using a combination square and a sharp pencil, draw a horrizontal line across the lock edge of door.

   Continue the line around both faces of the door/doors.

   On the high side of the bevel, measure in from the edge 2-7/16" and punch with an awl.

    On the 'low' side of the bevel measure in 2-5/16" and punch.

   This will position the bored holes perfectly back to back.( Bore these holes from both sides to the center.)

   The latchbolt is marked and punched in the doors center and bored with a 7/8" speed bore bit.

   There's a tool to use to stamp out the lock face's outline if you are new to using a chisel. In any event, Mark,punch and drill undersized screw holes to avoid splitting the wood.

   Don't hang any doors right from the lumber yard, but DO lay them flat on the floor one above the others 'till they're accustomed to the room's temperature (3-4 days)  Stein

   
   

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   Edited 9/3/2004 10:01 pm ET by steinmetz

   
   

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   Edited 9/3/2004 10:02 pm ET by steinmetz

1. 
   MikeK50 | Jun 24, 2003 08:35pm | #5

   Thanks for all of your great tips.

   Since I will be using my existing jams, I will use the existing doors as templates and use a flush trim bit to size the new doors.  Because of this, I expect to have to chamfer the door edges.

   My interior hollow core doors only have two hinges and I will need to locate them precisely where the existing ones are.  I am replacing the hinges with new hinges with identical footprints, so I can use the existing mortises in the jams.  I will locate the hinges on the new doors based on the old doors that will already be affixed as a template.  The same goes go the lockset hole.

   I think I'm convinced that I don’t have to buy an expensive template at all.  However, you can bet that I'm going to practice on some 2x4's before I attack my new doors!

   Thanks again,

    Mike K.

1. 
   Steinmetz | Jun 25, 2003 01:49am | #6

   Mike, since you are using existing jambs, measuring for hardware is time consuming and 'iffy'

   I like to bevel the lock edges and install the new hinge leafs on the jamb.

   Then prop  up the door in place, shim up,down and sideways for best fit.

   If the header in inclined, scribe a parallel line across with a pencil and plane the top before marking for hinges.

   With a sheetrock knife, 'Nick' the tops of all hinges onto the door and draw a half moon around them so you can't mistake a fly speck for a 'true' mark.

   Install the templates on the door.

   Those 2-3/4" spacers whenspaced betwix  the template and the nick,will position the template precisely for  tacking and routing of the hinge leaf.

   One trick I didn't mention, was:    To insure no tearout at the entry and exit of the router bit is:

   After tacking on the template, use a hacksaw blade and the 2-3/4" spacer and saw both top and bottom  'footprints' over the corner edges of the work lightly on a 45 deg downward slant Then rout. (Try on test piece first.)

   To assure that the screw holes don't 'wander',don't use those punch type hole locators, but do hold the hinge in it's mortise and using a countersink in your drill ,ream straight down with pressure to the back to make dimples in the wood.

   Later drill with the proper sized drill bit.  Stein.