I’m in the design stage of a small cabinet. The door is wider at the top than at the bottom. I’ve come up with a few ways to hinge it however I’m wondering if there might be any other suggestions. Currently my design would call for the upper part of one side of the door to enter the cabinet. I would have it pivot directly above the hinge point of the lower point of the door. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
…Steven
Replies
Is the door entering the cabinet a problem?
Are the case sides parallel with the door edge?
The only way i can visualize a door opening in a normal manner would be to fashion an extended pivot hinge, extended to the point where the pivot points of both hinges are vertically in line.
Other options might include the door as a slider as if on extensible drawer guides... good luck concealing the hardware ..... but Haefele makes some ingenious sliding mechanisms.
The trick to any type of opening is to keep the "pivot point" of the hinges on the same plane(s) this can be done with traditional type hinges and also with "european" style hinges(as in blum, grass, mepla, hettich, etc.) As previously posted, even "pocket door" hardware might work, as long as the engineering is done correctly. Mainly by trial and error
Good luck, this is what makes woodworking fun, and frustrating at the same time:~)
I think it's going to look cool. Post a picture if you can.
Obviously for the hinges to work correctly the axes of all of them have to be in line. I think your proposal is a great way of doing it. Here's a way to pull it off. Use metal pins for the hinges. Drill into the top and bottom of the door. Drill into the top and bottom frame. For the top, use a loose pin. Place it in the door, add a fiber washer or two, and tilt the door, putting the pin up into the frame. For the lower pin, drill the lower hole in the frame all the way through the bottom and insert the pin from below when the door is in place. Use fiber washers here, too. Hold the pin in place with a setscrew, screwed in from below. The setscrew will be larger than the pin, for example, if the pin is 1/4" diameter, then the setscrew might be 3/8".
Of course, getting it apart if the lower pin is tight will be a challenge.
Bat. Waynel has a good idea using pivots. since the pins will be centered in the door. that will neccesitate rounding off the 'heel' of the door to allow turning space.
This of course reveals a noticable gap on the pivot area. To counter this, it may require the jamb piece to be fabricated with a matching concavity.
However, since the door is not truely rectangular, the offset bottom pivot may require a slightly wider turning arc. (to prevent rubbing or binding.) I suggest you make a mock-up assembly first and try for the best fit. Stein.
If you don't mind the pivot pins showing, You can use offset knife pivot hinges and you won't need any of the rounding over' These pivots come in RH and LH configuration.
Edited 10/8/2003 3:35:11 PM ET by steinmetz
Thanks for all the responses. I do appreciate them all. I think though that a mock up in cheaper wood is the correct thing to do. I think I will be able to work out some other details of what I need to do.
Steven
I'm not so sure that you can't simply use conventional hinges including a piano hinge on the door. It may take some rather odd beveling but the door should still swing open and shut. It will also either tend to swing open or shut depending on the angle of the hinged side. Personally, since the door is not conventional, I'd opt for an unconventional hinge arrangement to further define the door. Can you, or do you want to, do a sliding door? Something like a door on a van would be interesting.
I think I'm going to go the unconventional route as a slider won't work with the design. Same thing with the conventional hinges. The first thing I'm going to do is do a mock up in pine & poplar then weigh the options from there. Thanks for your suggestions...
Steven
Steven
another alternative with a small cabinet is to pute the doors in the sides rather than the face of the cabinet.
Ian
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