hinges / gap for inset built-in cabinets
gunderson1909
| Posted in General Discussion on
What is the best type of hinge to use for inset cabinets in built-in cabinets ? What size gap between the door and frame?
We are re-building a dining room built-in that was removed from our 1906 house. We are also adding a divider wall of cabinets between the dining room and kitchen. The other built-ins in the house have ball-tip mortise hinges. Our contractor would like to avoid mortised hinges. I have seen 3/32″ solid non-mortise hinges with ball tips by classic-brass (#2581) Would these be good?
The original hardware in the house is dark brown with coper tones showing through.
Replies
What type of doors are you using? Solid wood, veneered ply, or frame and panel. It matters quite a bit, as wood movement will dictate the tolerances you need to keep in the clearance of the doors to the frame.
For frame and raised panel, I keep the gaps around 1/16", maybe a hair more. I make spacers, and I always mortice the hinges. Others will chime in here for sure.
Jeff
I wish I knew the terminology well enough to answer you clearly and concisely, but I shall make a stab at communication in spite of myself. The doors are 5 part shaker style, with solid QS oak stiles and rails and the middle part is QS veneer over plywood (I think). The cabinets face frames are solid QS oak with plywood boxes (I think).I am in the Chicago area with humid summers and cold winters. The contractor prefers non-mortise and the risk of error with mortises that will further delay this project is a bit of a concern. thank you for your help
"The best type" is dependant on too many factors. The non-mortice hinges are of medium quality, generally plated. They will be fine for something that isn't opened numerous times a day. Oak is a species that likes to move. The plywood panel won't move but each piece of oak will. Being quarter sawn, the movement will be less than plain sawn but a lot will depend on the width of the rails, stiles and frame. With 3" wide stiles and 4" frame, you have the potential movement of a 14" board. If I built it with KD lumber at 8% moisture content, I'd space the doors 3/32", that's the thickness of a nickel. With fine furniture and less lumber width, the tolerances can get tighter. One important thing with the non-mortice hinges is getting the screws in straight and flush. A self centering vix bit is handy to have, along with a careful hand.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
I built this a couple of years ago to match a customers 40 yr old china hutch. The door panels are glued up pieces of parquet flooring that I backcut like a raised panel to fit in the door rails and stiles. They weigh about the same as a solid raised panel door.
The hinges are standard "out of the bin" hinges that weren't mortised. One of the holes in each hinge leaf was slightly elongated and I used it to get my alignment, then used a Vix bit to center the other holes and finish the door installation.
It must have worked out well for them. I saw them several months after I had delivered it and they still loved it. - lol
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