I was using some Blue Mol brand hole cutters from Home Depot on pine. The cut was rather rough and the round saw/cutter simply gummed up. The pine was dry, but . . . I understand these particular hole cutters are more for construction, can be used in holes for doors, even metal clad doors (for which I have used a Blue Mol before). They work fine for those applications.
What I am after is a round piece of wood, of various diameters with a 1/4″ hole in the middle.
Are there better brands/makes of such hole cutters? I am not after the hole, but the round “wheel” in the middle.
Alan – planesaw
Edited 11/8/2009 8:23 am ET by Planesaw
Replies
Go to the Woodcraft website and do a Search for circle cutter. I think that is what you're looking for.
Thanks. Will do.
Alan
While there are certainly better brands, it sounds like your problem is with the lumber, not the hole saw.
Ralph,
Greetings. We have "talked" in the past. You could be right. Easily I think the type of wood makes a difference, but I also get the idea that these hole saws/cutters are not designed for smooth cutting. I notice the correct spelling is Blu Mol. No "e" on blu.
I'll use one and cut a hole in a piece of oak or cherry and see if it is any different than the pine.
Alan
Be sure to clean it up good after cutting pine before cutting the oak or cherry.
Thanks. It will be cleaned.
Alan
hi alan,
although not my favorite tool in the box, i have made very nice wood disks using an adjustable fly cutter. one needs to be very careful using this thing. on one job site many years ago we had one chucked up in a 1/2 drill, which had a 25' extension cord plugged to it. while running it in the "switch stays on mode", this thing got away from the operator and ran all over the kitchen-to-be as if it was desperate for blood. no one was hurt but we did nick name it "the disembowler"
eef
Eef,
Don't know what a fly cutter is (I'll look it up), but anything that get's called a disembowler is probably not hgih on my list. But, I'll check it out. May come in handy for something else.
Alan
I have a set of Kinzo hole cutters. I get quite a reasonably smooth cut.
Can't help you to source them as http://www.kinzo.com - which is the url on the box - takes you to a Dutch Internet Service Provider!
davcefai,
Thanks for the info on kinzo.
Alan
Alan, I used the same hole saw on some discs I made from Maple and Bubinga. It cut pretty well. I did chuck them in my lathe and used a sanding block to clean them up, although the cut wasn't all that bad before.
Kent,
Thanks. I can clean up the plugs (sand, smooth etc.) relatively easy. My problem is the saw blade gumming up. Probably the pine.
Alan
It's the saw. These are generally construction-grade blades and are pretty coarse with a lot of set so the blade doesn't bind. (That said, I've had more than one serious bruise from these suckers binding while being driven by a honkin' Milwaukee right angle drill. Not pretty!)
Don't know what you have at hand, but if it wuz me, I'd go ahead and cut the plugs on a drill press with the hole saws, then chuck them up and smooth them out with a file and/or sandpaper.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
Everything fits, until you put glue on it.
Thanks Mike. The problem (maybe the pine) is that the saw blade really gums up. Smokes, etc. Maybe I should try it on some poplar or something a little harder.
Glad you kept the G-20 under control out there. Our program offices out there share a building with an armored car company. Everyone on that side of the building carries. On the one hand, a very safe building. It is amazing to see an 18-wheeler with a short (probably 40 ft) trailer backed up to their dock each morning knowing they are transfering millions of dollars in coin and paper. Have asked for samples several times. But, they don't smile.
We were told the Fed was going to move cash there from downtown during the G-20. Didn't take us long to figure out that was probably just a planned diversion. Who knows if they even moved anything anywhere.
Alan
Gotcha on the blade getting fouled. IME, the type of wood doesn't make that much difference. What will make a difference is to make the hole just at the edge of the wood, so the sawdust has an escape path.
Yeah, it's a pain to have to get an 18-wheeler just to move my cash around. ;-)Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PAEverything fits, until you put glue on it.
Mike,
I liked the edge of the board idea to help clear the sawdust. Will definitely do that.
Years ago my dad told me he was working on his 2nd million dollars. Said he gave up on the first one.
Alan
Kinda like the old Steve Martin routine, "How to make a million dollars and PAY NO TAXES in three steps":
1) Make a million dollars.2) Don't pay taxes.3) When the tax man shows up, just say "I forgot." If that doesn't work, there's always EXCUUUUUUUUUSE ME!"
;-)Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PAEverything fits, until you put glue on it.
You prolly already have this under control, but the bigger the hole saw dia, the slower you need to run the DP.
Oh, I don't assume I have anything under control. Good reminder that I should check the speed. Think I am okay, but may try slowing it down to see if that helps at all.
Alan
If you're driving the hole saw vertically, as in a drill press, it doesn't work very well. The problem is that the sawdust has no way to escape from the kerf. It prevents the teeth from reaching the work, and it binds up the saw, causing much heat. Hole saws work much better when they're going horizonally, the way a plumber might use one to make holes in studs. The sawdust easily falls out, and the saw keeps on cutting. To use one vertically, you can keep pulling it out of the cut and vacuuming out the dust. Or you can set the hole right at the edge of the stock, so the saw blade breaks through the edge of the stock. The sawdust can escape there, and the cut goes easily. Of course, if you go too far, you get a flat spot on your wheel, so you must be precise.
James,
Ouch. Logic. Makes complete sense.
Alan
Alan,
About hole cutters. You might want to contact Derek Cohen. It may be that each one has to be sharpened and honed for best performance. Fettling tools is very important. I remember once, it took me a few days to fettle an old Stanley #7, mostly because the sole wasn't flat, and that sucker is BIG. My guess is that each hole cutter can be properly honed, with appropriate secondary and back bevels. You might want to check their hardness. If they are not hard enough, you might want to re-harden them. Mel
PS I have noticed some strange advice on Knots lately. :-)Measure your output in smiles per board foot.
James,You're quite right about the problem in using them in a drill press, which is why I've taken to blowing compressed air on the drill all the time it's working. Clears the dust and cools the saw at the same time.David Ring
http://www.touchwood.co.il/?lang=e&id=1
Excellent idea. I can rig up a nozzle and put just enough air on it to help keep it clear.
Alan
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