Replies

1. 
   chatobob | Mar 01, 2005 08:58pm | #1

   Instead of thinking about a jig, how about snapping a straight line with a chaulked string, cutting close to the line on a bandsaw, and then finishing up the edge on the jointer?  Then the other edge can be straightened on the table saw.  Whew, too many tools!

   -Bob

2. 
   stancalow | Mar 02, 2005 02:02am | #2

   steelheader

   I cannot get the attachment function to work or I would send a picture.  My jig is pretty basic:  a wide melamine board (an old shelf)  with two toggle clamps to hold the workpiece.  The edge to be cut hangs over the left edge of the melamine.  The jig rides against the table saw fence.  I originally planned to put a rider on the bottom and slide in the miter slot, but that woudl limit the size of board to be cut.  I'll try sending the picture again later.

   Stan

3. 
   mike4244 | Mar 02, 2005 03:03am | #3

   I do it two ways, one like Stan's with toggle clamps on a sled. Sometimes I just screw a straight edge to the rough lumber and run the straightedge against the fence. I use the first method if I have a number of pieces to straighten.

   mike

4. 
   Steinmetz | Mar 02, 2005 03:43am | #4

   Steel, Just save any long straight 'Cutoffs'
   to tack temporally to overhang the rough edge that rides the sawfence,

   Position the strip roughly parallel to to the opposite side of the board to minimize waste
   If the material is thin,
   tack the fore and aft ends first.
   Then, by 'Sighting down'the edge,and tweaking the strip,
   tack the center next.

   Then,tack any other spots that may have wandered.

   I've done this hundreds of times (Using 1/4" lattice strip for the straight edge)and it works as well as a jig and much less costly.
   Steinmetz.
   Lattice strip is a jigmaker's best friend.

5. 
   notDusty | Mar 02, 2005 04:35am | #5

    Hi steelheader ,

          Here are a few photos of the type of jig I have been using for a long time . It is fast and you do not need to fasten or clamp the boards. As far as I can tell it is as accurate as any system but simple and quick .

                     good  luck                      dusty

   
   

   ---

   Edited 3/1/2005 8:36 pm ET by dusty

   
1. 
   BG | Mar 02, 2005 01:39pm | #6

   Steel,

   Some time ago on here someone suggested using a piece of extruded aluminun (3/4 or 1" square) which is light, straight, comes in 6' lengths and can be gotten at the hardware store for a few bucks. I just put it between the rough board and the TS fense and cut straight away, flip the board over and run it through again (with or without the jig).    

1. 
   desertrat | Mar 02, 2005 06:17pm | #7

   I do pretty much the same thing, except mine in 10' long and 2" x 2".  Works like a charm.