Replies

1. 
   tom77 | Feb 06, 2007 12:29am | #1

   I would suggest looking at equipment either in retail stores or on line.  You will quickly get an idea of the size of various types of equipment.  The space you describe should be ample.

   When you are designing your cabinet, keep in mind the wiring.  These systems have a LOT of wiring, and you will be much happier if you can organize it.  Also, think through the installation process, making sure there is enough slack wire to hook up each component before you push it into place.

   I have designed and built several of these projects, and would be willing to share my experiences if you wish.

   Best of luck, Tom.

2. 
   highfigh | Feb 06, 2007 01:49am | #2

   20" is a bit on the shallow side. Most RCA connectors will add at least 1" to the depth and some, even more. Using right angle RCA adaptors is great for 1 or 2 but they also add connection points that can cause trouble later. You also don't want to make a tight bend with the cables.

   The best thing to do at this point is think about some of the brands of equipment that you would consider buying and look at their websites- they have full specs and dimensions for everything listed. If space is really at a premium, consider keeping the receiver and cable or satellite box in another location, like the basement, under the cabinet. You can still operate them with a remote and IR/RF extender and they don't really need to be in the same place as the sources.

   The most common dimension is the width, most are about 17" and rack-mounted equipment is set up for 19" rack screw spacing. All of the rest are discretionary.

   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
3. 
   colebearanimals | Feb 06, 2007 02:14am | #3

   Think about ventalation as well. Even if you use solidstate electronics, you'll generate quite a bit of heat in an enclosed cabinet ( if you are using tube amps it will be way off the chart). Also , if you can access the cabinet from behind ( an adjacent room ) it will help with both set-up and future changes. Sounds like a great prokect.

                                               Paul

1. 
   achome | Feb 08, 2007 09:25pm | #6

   I second the notion on cooling.  I have a typical entertainment center, with shelves behind doors for the components.  Two problems arise: cooling and remote control access.  Most remotes are infrared I think and therefore you need to leave the doors open to control them.  That's asking for someone to fly by and yank the door off the hinges.  I installed 2 things: a remote control sensor system and a muffin fan.   The muffin fan is installed in the back of the cabinet and pulls the air from the room over the equipment and dumps it into the cavity behind the entertainment center.  This is plugged into the "Switched" outlet on my AV receiver, so it goes on when I power on and off when I power off.  If you have a 2-zone amp like I do, you have to make sure that zone 2 is also powered off so the fan goes off.  The remote system has a receiver (about 1" high, 4" wide, 3" deep) that I sit on top of the tv.  Each component has a little sensor that sticks to the front of the component over the IR detector.  Point the remote to the receiver on top of the tv (or somewhere in sight) and it will control the appropriate component.  Works well so far.   Sorry I can't remember where I bought this stuff.  Let me know if interested and I'll try to dig it up.

   Another thing I did was to put my receiver on a pull-out shelf (full-extension glides) to have (slightly) better access the rear panel connections.   Might want to plan pull-outs all around, both for components and media.  I am now building pullout drawers for vhs/dvd's.  Definitely use full-extension glides.  3/4 stink..hard to get at the back ones.  My other entertainment center has 3/4 glides and you can't get to the cd's at the backs of the rows. 

   good luck

   Johnny

1. 
   colebearanimals | Feb 09, 2007 03:19am | #7

   You can even get drawer guides that have a 1" overtravel. There is also hardware available ( can't remember the brand ) that's made to handle several componets and pull out far enough to spin completely around allowing total access to the back. I can look up the details if anyone needs it.

                Paul

1. 
   highfigh | Feb 09, 2007 05:53am | #8

   If you're referring to a short rack that is black with an aluminum strip on the side, it's probably Middle Atlantic and it's pretty expensive. Rockler has a heavy duty lazy susan that will handle the weight. I would make it with a bolt with a nylock nut and nylon washers at the top that keeps it from wobbling and tighten it so it can turn freely but I would also keep it from rotating too far.
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

1. 
   colebearanimals | Feb 09, 2007 09:20pm | #9

   That would work. Good idea. The hardware I was thinking of is rather expensive, several hundred dollars.

                 Paul

4. 
   AlPal | Feb 06, 2007 03:34am | #4

   You might want to check out hometheaterforum.com  They have all kinds of home theater discussions.  One is dedicated to the building of HT systems.

5. 
   dukeone | Feb 06, 2007 06:01am | #5

   Stu: I would look at premade equipment racks. They would be made to fit the largest spectrum of possible equipment. There are some amplifiers that are extra large and need special consideration size wise but these are also very expensive and if your not going into "high end" standard size compartments would likely do.

   Duke

   "... Buy the best and only cry once.........

6. 
   hereford | Feb 10, 2007 01:15am | #10

   He is one solution I wouldn't suggest, unless your cheap