I’m putting together a catalog order this weekend, and would like to get a honing guide. The Veritas guide was at the top of my list, but I’ve read that it’s “at its best” when honing wider pieces such as plane blades.
I’d be working mostly on smaller chisels (1/4 – 1″), though I have a few planes I really should tune up and use.
Would appreciate any opinions on the various guides, keeping in mind that my eyes and fine-motor control aren’t as good as they were 20 years ago. Thanks!
Replies
I use my veritas guide to sharpen a variety of chisels, 1/4" and above. It works fine for me. Sometimes the chisels will "float" around in the guide, this leads to an uneven edge, but I have been able to overcome this through the extra finger pressure when honing and a quick double check before to ensure the chisel is perpendicular to the guide.
the veritas guide is working really well for me, I'm glad that I bought it.
Thanks for the info Jeff. When you're honing chisels with this guide, how do you hold the set, and what part do you exert the extra pressure on? It sounds like you've developed a good technique.
When I setup the jig, I use the Veritas bevel guage to set the edge. From there I use a pretty low tech way to ensure that the chisel is perpendicular to the jig, I penciled a line on my workbench... by putting the jig up to the edge of my bench I can adjust the chisel.
When I am actually sharpening, I apply even pressure to the back of the chisel near the bevel and kind of wrap my fingers over the edge of my waterstone and my palms against the jig. Out of this gymnastics I get a pretty even sharpening stroke along the stone and the chisels stays put.
If all I was doing was chisels, I'd probably get one of the edge guide jigs, but the veritas guide works well for me with everything (hand tools that is).
Dave -- thanks for the detailed info on these guides! I was skeptical about the Stanley guide, so I'll certainly pass on that one.
I have all most all of the Vertias sharping guides they make and all of them work perfectly. I also have the small blade holder for my spoke shaves and it also works like the charm.Scott C. Frankland
Newfoundland Wood Worker
Don't totally dismiss the Stanley guide; it's great for honing the short blades of spokeshaves. In the main I use the Side Clamp type and it does the job well. Like Dave Wright says, you have to watch the single wheel but it can be an advantage when you need a slight radius on a plane blade e.g. for a Jack plane.
Cheers, Alf
Forest (as in blade?) girl,
I read an article a while ago called "scary sharp". The article extolled the virtues of using very fine wet sandpaper instead of stones. After trying it quite a few times and finally getting the hang of it; it sure puts an edge on those tools! I can set the blade side down ( while holding the handle straight up) and w/ no pressure other than the tools weight leave a cut in my caloused palm.Not that I would advocate this behavour. (sp?) Problem is I can't remember where I read it.
Miami
All, Does anyone know the secret to spell check here? It seems to point out misspelling but offers no alternative, seemingly.
Hi Miami -- I think I have that article around somewhere! That's the basic system I plan to use for starters in my sharpening adventures, since there are many more tools than money, as usual. If my tools get even close to your's in sharpness, I'd be proud!
Since I was blessed with a natural inclination for spelling, so I don't know about the spell-check behavior ;-) (or behaviour for the British, I believe).
Thanks!
forest girl,
Fotgot to mention, while I can get them pretty sharp; getting them "dead-on square" elludes me. Is a guide the best method? I bought some diamond router-bit files... all they seemed to do was relieve me of $30.00. Maybe I'm not using them properly, again came w/ no instructions. Probably best method is to refuse to loan them to people who think a chisel is for nail head removal. Seems no matter how much you instruct some people the Idea that you might know a little more is a threat to their fragile egos. Next thing you know the chisel comes back looking like a flattened holesaw, teeth and all. ;^)
Miami
The method that I use to set both the blade square and keep the same bevel angle each time is to fix a bit of wood on a ply base. You can set it square to the front edge by using your square and then fix it in place. When you fix your plane/chisel blade in the honing guide you just offer up the honing guide to the front of the jig and push the blade over against the piece of wood and then tighten up. Guaranteed square to the front of the honing guide every time.
For that extra bit of joy you can then put another piece of wood at the correct distance from the front, and square to the side wall, that will guarantee the same degree on the bevel each time without messing about. It all takes about 5 seconds.
It's easier to see than explain but I hope you've got the idea.
I use the Veritas honing guide along with the angle finder. A quick check with the head of a Starret 6" combination square ensures squareness. Smaller chisels are tougher to keep square, you really have to crank the knob. I'll use a sharpy marker to 'blue' the bevel which gives a good view of squareness at a glance. I especially like the microbevel detents on the Veritas. I also use the scarry sharp system with silicon carbide paper, dry on 1/2" glass. The back side of my glass plate has 60, 100 and 150 grits for 'grinding' a new bevel to get past a chip. The sharpening side has 1/4 sheet strips of 180, 220, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1200 and 2000. I go about 30 seconds a grit, wiping or blowing between grits. I click to the 2 degree microbevel and take 6 passes on the 1200 & 2000. The finer grits are available from industrial abrasive or auto paint suppliers.John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking
Life is tough. It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne
Miami -- I know exactly what you mean! I have to keep my tools away from my sweetie -- he simply has no psychic connection with them! My chisels will remain under lock and key when I'm not nearby to protect them.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Forest girl, I had a friend come into my shop while I was at work ( this is ok for an approved few) he somehow found my " good" set of chisels and borrowed them to cut ( you may want to sit down at thuis point ) plywood, wires, and chipped mortar off blocks. He then put them back in their case and returned them. The next time that I needed them...well I can't even today express the conflict of emotions that ran through my person!!! Needless to say I called the now ever shortening list of approved people and casually inquired about my chisel set. The guy who borrowed them was eager to tell how nice and sharp they were. He assured me that they were the nicest he had ever used! He even said that I was the top on his list as far as tool ownership was concerned. aaat this point I said 'I'll be right over", and hung up. I arrived with the one remaining unmolested chisel and the other victims of this monsters carnage. I laid them all down side by side on his bench and asked if he saw and difference. HIS EYES LIT UP IN WHAT I CAN ONLY IMAGINE AS TRUE DEMON POSSESSION AS HE FOCUSED IN ON THE ONE REMAINING UNMOLESTED TOOL, "YOU BOUGHT A NEW ONE!" At this point I think to myself how cleanly that last one would sink into his ignorant forhead. Alas, this is my friend for better or for now. I explained very carefully the enormity of 1/4" gouges in the business end of these tools. He was really sorry and promised to never borrow my tools w/out clearance again, etc. He even offered to replace them right away."I'll run right down to Lowes and get another set."(sigh!) I explained that these are not available at Lowes and not even from the U.S.( hoping he might catch a glimmer of understanding...NOPE!) He informed me that if I had bought American products that this wouldn't have been a problem. Believe it or not we are still friends. He is just a friend w/out a key to the shop!
Miami
Oh, Miami, that is heartrending indeed! He must be a very special friend on other fronts to have survived that incident! You have my enduring respect for handling it the way you did -- not sure I could have done it!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
The scary sharp article was first in an American Woodworker article (at least that's where I first saw it) and FWW had it in an article (where three types of sharpening methods were compared) on it pretty recently. I use it too and absolutely love it. Doesn't even take a minute to put an edge on a plane iron. I haven't really found much difference between using the paper wet or dry, so I usually use it dry. I do all my sharpening free hand, so I can't say much about any of the guides. I do recall a tip in FWW about making a flying wedge a while ago. If I had a lot of irons that needed to be perfectly square I would probably make one.
When people 100 years from now see my work, they'll know I cared. --Matt Mulka
Jeff, Matt, Frank, John and Dave -- Thanks so much for all your pearls of wisdom. I'll print this thread out when my Veritas stuff arrives (yes, I opted for the Veritas) and have it handy as I set up my little sharpening station. Can't wait!
PS: I may be back with questions!
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled