During the honing process of a plane iron how far do you step up in grits on the primary bevel? Do you go to your finest grit and then add a micro bevel or do you go to the micro bevel say after a medium grit on the primary bevel? I am using the scary sharp method with a Veritas honing guide. primary bevel 30 degrees and micro bevel about 33 degrees.
Thanks,
Greg
Replies
Yump'in Yemmeny Will No One Answer This Man's Question ?
We have an agent in the field that desperately needs our help. Are we going to let him down ? Are we going to deny him the intelligence he needs to survive the hellish realities that he may find there ? Would James Bond be denied the tools that he needed ? Not on your life ! I say we must ACT and we must act NOW ! ! !
GW52,
My apologies if you are a woman. Obviously you are deep under cover and do not want your true identity revealed to ANYONE. Interesting photo there I am completely thrown off by it. Not sure what I am getting myself into here but will soldier on for the face value of the question and for all that is good and true.
No reason to sharpen the primary bevel past the coarsest grit. Only on the 33 º go through all of the progressively finer grits.
Now
. . . that said, let us consider the finer things in life, shall we ? I often go through all of the grits on the primary bevel. Why; it is a waste of time ? I must answer : aesthetics. Purely aesthetics my friend. I like looking at that large mirror facet on the plane blade while I am handling it.
Were the Samuari swords polished ? Yes. Did they need to be polished over the surfaces that were not directly involved with the two and three body at a time work that they were designed for and capable of, id est right at the very edge ?
No.
I rest my case.
Happy polishing and don't forget to stop and smell the roses ( or in our case, stop and admire the useless shiny facets).
Honing
roc
Thanks for the reply, trying to get a smoothing plane tuned in and trying to cover all of the bases. I have a Veritas 4 1/2 and trying to find the sweet spot between the opening width of the mouth, where to place the chip breaker and it seems that I might be expending too much force to try and get the plane to work correctly. When you take a look at some of the videos it all looks soooo easy!! When I find the right spot I will be so much wiser.
Thanks,
Greg
PS The picture is of the Woodworking Dog, Maggie
Have a great time with your new plane !
Oops, I missed your name "Greg" on your OP.
Hi Greg,
Narrow opening of mouth is WAY over rated. Just make sure it is between enough and plenty. If the blade is properly prepared it can be a whole lot and still work great. Only a few woods it makes a dif on.
Same with chip breaker ; for instance a bevel up HAS NO CHIP BREAKER and works fine.
Yep a wide plane without any curve to the cutting edge is going to take some force for a medium shaving.
Best to stick to very fine shavings or put some radius on the edge.
Sounds like you have a really nice new tool there !
Dogs are great !
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