Replies

1. 
   Alan | Jun 01, 2002 03:34am | #1

   Phil,

   I own all of them:  the Veritas, the Stanley, and the one that clamps the tool from the sides (along with a couple others that are just variations of the Stanley or Veritas).  My advice?  FWIW--keep sharpening by hand, without any jigs.

   None of the jigs perform up to my expectations.  They are all difficult to get set up properly, and none hold the tool at a guaranteed right angle--except the side clamp jig (which has its own problems).  Another problem arises after you've honed the bevel and want to hone the back (to remove the wire edge).  It is difficult--or impossible--to hone the back with the jig still clamped to the tool without moving the set up.  If you remove the tool from the jig to hone the back you will spend many frustrating minutes trying to get the same set up again before you can move on to the next stone.

   The side clamp jig has its own problems.  The big one is that it comes loose far too easily, and usually at the wrong time.  Then you have the same headache trying to get the same set up again.  In addition you simply cannot clamp a bevel-edge chisel in it at the correct angle.  This is because of the way the edges of the clamp are tapered (though this fault may be unique to the brand I have).

   The Veritas jig and angle setter dealie probably come closest to a workable system.  But the jig allows the tool to swing out of alignment (as does the Stanley) and doesn't hold the tool all that firmly.

   I just finished resharpening a whole bunch of my edge tools.  Even though I own four or five jigs, I did them all by hand.

   Alan

2. 
   SCFrankland | Jun 01, 2002 03:39am | #2

   I have both the Vertias and Record jig and find the the Vertias is a far better jig. I find the off center axle to be a nice touch for putting micro bevels on my plane blades.

   Scott C. Frankland

   Newfoundland Wood Worker

3. 
   forestgirl | Jun 01, 2002 05:48am | #3

   I asked virtually the same question back in April, and got great responses in this forum.  Here's the link:

   http://forums.taunton.com/tp-knots/messages?msg=5710.1

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

4. 
   user-38724 | Jun 01, 2002 08:06am | #4

   Actually, I've been relatively pleased with my hand sharpening. However, I'm always looking for ways to improve it and make it as consistent as possible.  Also, I'm becoming more interested in using handplanes and would like to acheive the best edges possible for that adventure. Most of my sharpening has been of chisels and jointer knives.  So, just looking around at the possibilities.  I will check out the thread forest girl referenced.  Thanks for the responses.

5. 
   PlaneWood | Jun 02, 2002 01:15am | #5

   I made mine out of blocks of wood (Mahogany).  The bed is 18" long, 6" wide, 2" thick.  I routed out a bed for my diamond laps (3x8x1/4) on one end.  I put 3/4" rails on top about 4" apart.  Made a slider out of another block of wood where I had cut off one end at 25 degrees from horizontal.  I did that in my BS by clamping the piece vertical and cutting with blade set at 25 degrees.  I have a block of wood on top of the bevel that tightens down on the blades/chisels with two screws.  To put on a 30 degree micro-bevel, I just elevate the rear of the slider with a small block of wood.

   I have 3 grits of diamond laps and I keep finer grits of silicon carbide paper glued on the reverse sides.  Once sharpened, it generally just takes a few swipes on the paper to get the edge back.  If I get a nick, then I go back to the roughest diamond lap and start over.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy
   PlaneWood

1. 
   user-38724 | Jun 02, 2002 08:03am | #6

   Sounds interesting.  In fact, after hearing such mixed reviews on commercially available jigs, I was starting to give some thought to building my own.  Thanks for the ideas.