Honing tool for jointer knives
Has anyone used a honing tool for jointer knives. I was looking at a 400 and 600 mesh micro diamond tool and the 180-400 grit aluminum oxide tool. Any one used them or are they a waste of time and money.
Scott C. Frankland
“This all could have been prevented if their parents had just used birth control”
Replies
Scott, is the 180/400 aluminum oxide the one with a plastic body, about 3" long? I've used mine a little bit, but with no instructions and no marks on the tool, have had trouble knowing if I'm doing it right. It's OK for very light touch-ups.
Do you have a link to the diamond tool?
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
You have to look it up on the site below. I have wondered about these little things for sometime but have never dropped the money down for one. Will have to check it out the next time I am over there.
http://www.busybeetools.com/Scott C. Frankland
"This all could have been prevented if their parents had just used birth control"
Scott, the wood body that holds the diamond honer would make me uneasy. I trust the hard plastic of the AO sharpener to stay in exactly the same shape with no changes in angles or whatever. Seems like they probably make the diamond one primarily for use on carbide blades, no?forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
I don't think the would body would throw anything off that much and the diamond cutter is faster cutting with a finer grit. You are right about the diamond being more for carbide blades but they are not designed to cut only carbide. Diamond is hard enough to cut effectively in carbide but will also cut less harder metals with no problems.Scott C. Frankland
"This all could have been prevented if their parents had just used birth control"
Scott,
I was up to a similar venture when you first posted but only now have anything to add. I have the stone model of this tool but haven't used it much because it seemed too course and I never got a good feel (for control) when using it. Recently, I ordered a pocket size ceramic (white) stone for use on my jointer and have now tried it.
It seems easier to handle, small and light, and will do anything the specialty item will. Both get the bevel area fine but neither work really well on the face. I would have liked to use the ceramic stone on edge, but neither one was true. Do you, or anyone else have any tips for truing the edges of this little ceramic stone.
BTW, the stone came from Woodcraft at closeout price ran about $8.00.
Good luck,
Richard
The easiest way is to buy two stones of the same make and grit and rub the two together. This will great two stones with dead flat surfaces. Other methods require a known flat surface and some sort of abrasive to rub against.Scott C. Frankland
"This all could have been prevented if their parents had just used birth control"
Scott:
I may be kidding myself, but I think the joiner/plainer hone works fine on both tools. I try to use it fairly frequently, before real dulling happens, and make about 30 passes with each grit on each blade. Results are good. Hope all is well there in the Country of the Gods.
Wes
The Country of the Gods? Where is this place located? I will have to look at the diamond stone a little closer the next time I am out.Scott C. Frankland
"This all could have been prevented if their parents had just used birth control"
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