Replies

1. 
   InMyOpinion | Mar 21, 2007 11:20pm | #1

   The Rockler site has a good summary. IMO, jim

1. 
   gwsaltspring | Mar 22, 2007 09:53am | #2

   Thanks for the lead Jim.

2. 
   BobMc | Mar 22, 2007 01:12pm | #3

   http://www.justsawblades.com/systimatic/terminology.htm

   Also, if you look through http://www.amanatool.com/saw-blades.html you'll see the hook angles and teeth configurations used on saw blades for various applications.

   http://www.dekalbsaw.com/sawtearout.html might be helpful, though redundant at this point.

    

   
   

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   Edited 3/22/2007 6:14 am ET by BobMc

3. 
   forestgirl | Mar 22, 2007 06:32pm | #4

   "I then came across the 2007 Taunton tool guide which suggested a hook angle of 0 deg to 5 deg for a miter saw."  I wouldn't restrict yourself to such a low hook angle.  There are factors to consider such as the power-size of the saw and what kinds of material you're cutting (thickness, hardwood, softwood).  Splintering needs more than a good hook angle to be cured, especially on a miter saw.  An auxiliary fence to give zero clearance is quite helpful.

   I'm most familiar with the Freud line of blades.  You might want to look at the LU80.  96-tooth, HiATB, 2° hook.  Their Diablo line has a fine crosscut blade, which I use (can't remember the model#) and it's available at Home Depot.  Will get a #for you.  IMHO, the "Ultimate Cut-off" LU85 might be overkill for your purposes.  I have it, and it's a specialty blade that I love for exposed end-grain and cutting thin plywood on the tablesaw.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
   

1. 
   Vikingvood | Mar 22, 2007 08:08pm | #5

   The reason for 0 degree or negitive hook angles for sliding mitersaws & radial arm saws is SAFTEY!, the 0 degree & negitive hook angles reduce/minimize the climb out - a blade with positve hook used on on sliding miter saw will climb out toward the user when it binds or when you cut thicker wood.

1. 
   forestgirl | Mar 22, 2007 10:22pm | #6

   Near as I can tell, the OP (original poster)_ isn't talking about a sliding miter saw, but a regular CMS.  That's why I didn't say anything about negative hook angles.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

1. 
   gwsaltspring | Mar 23, 2007 07:48am | #7

   Thanks for your post. Perhaps it was a bit misleading to suggest that the tear out was the reason for wanting the new saw. It was just one of the factors that I might use to justify the new purchase. As you suggest the tear out was for the most part dealt with by the use of an auxiliary fence. It was a short job (3 weeks) and rather than pack up the 10" Makita I decided too do some modifications to my 8 1/4" CMS to increase the depth of cut to 3 1/2" as I like to miter baseboard up against the fence.I was reminded that baseboard height seems to be on the rise, as it were and the ability to cut a miter of 5 1/2" up against the fence is mighty appealing hence the short hop to justifying looking into a 12" CMS and since I already have the Makita..... well I think you get the drift. The request for help comes from my ignorance of blade design. For all of these years I have just gone down to the local lumber yard and purchased whatever my tool guy suggested. Primarily Freud. Boy what a can of worms I have opened up for myself. Didn't know how little I knew!FWIW I have decided to go with a Forrest WWII for the Delta in the shop, I'm going to add a Freud glue line rip for the Bosch 4000 since I mostly rip with that saw and will probably pick up a Fusion when they are available. As far as the CMS is concerned I am leaning towards the Dewalt since it is available on island, has the depth of cut I am looking for, feels lighter when I pick it up one handed and while a fare chunk of change doesn't break the bank. Next up is a good blade for it, so I will check out your suggestions. So Thanks to everyone who replied. This has become a real education!Greg

1. 
   forestgirl | Mar 23, 2007 07:29pm | #8

   Wow, I just looked your island up -- what a cool place!  I live on Bainbridge Island outside of Seattle.  How many ferries would it take to get you down here for Tom's Woodworkers' Fest in May??forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

2. 
   gwsaltspring | Mar 23, 2007 08:47pm | #9

   Hi FG;Given that I believe I can drive from Port Angeles (sp?)to Bainbrige Island, two ferries can do it. One from Saltspring to Vancouver Island and one from Victoria to Port Angeles. I suppose the other option is to go from Saltspring to the continent and drive down to Seattle, but city/mainland driving gives me the creeps. When in May is the Woodworkers Fest?Cheers Greg

3. 
   forestgirl | Mar 24, 2007 04:58am | #10

   Hi, Greg.  The Woodworkers' Fest and Pig Roast is on Sunday, May 27th (a three-day weekend for us Yanks).  It's a great party with woodworkers and their families and friends (if they're brave; just kidding) at Tom's fantastic shop in Fremont (Seattle).  If you wanted to spend more than a day down here, the Seattle Folklife Festival is also going on, so there's plenty to do (even without, Seattle has many attractions).  Here's a link to pics from 2005.

   Click on my name and drop me an email, I'll put you on the list.  I'm sending out an invite email in the next day or two to everyone who came last time, and others who've expressed interest.  It'd be great to see you there!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)