Horizontal boring machine – questions
I want to make one. First, I’m looking for around 4000 rpm for boring 1/4″ and 5/16″ holes in various kinds of wood up to 5″ thick.
I can make a sliding bed and a jig for holding the motor. But, I need suggestions for the motor? Would a Variac slow down a router to 4000 rpm and still retain enough power? Or, where could I find a 4000+/- rpm motor with a 1/4″ chuck of about 1 HP?
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy
PlaneWood
Replies
http://www.woodmagazine.com/compstor/dpsc.html
If you are drilling in various types of wood you will want more speeds to choose and certainly not 4,000. What are you making? Giving a better idea of your types of projects would open the possibilities for other suggestions that might be more useful.
A 1750 rpm three phase motor and a Variable Frequency Drive would be the best bet. This will allow you to get variable speed and even to double the motors rated output speed to 3450. On motors rated 1 hp or less you can get a unit that will work off of 110 volts. About $250 though.
Edited 7/4/2002 3:50:23 PM ET by rick3ddd
Rick -
Why not 4000? I'm drilling hardwoods and exotic woods. Three phase is out. Don't have that here in my shop.
I would like something like a drill motor. 3450 rpm would be OK too. Most drill motors have odd shapes though, making it difficult to clamp them in a jig.
I do have a 1.5HP, 3450 rpm motor. Guess I could cut threads on the shaft and screw on a chuck. Have to move the wood into the bit that way.
Check my web page for what I do. Using a drill press now.
PlaneWood by Mike_in_KatyPlaneWood
In regards to your comment of 'cutting threads on the motor's shaft and screwing on a chuck', you should make sure that the center of the shaft is aligned with the axis of rotation of the chuck. You don't want the chuck to wobble. There's another discussion thread on this forum that discusses the Morris Taper used to mount a chuck on a drill press. If you've ever had a drill press where the chuck 'wobbled', it brings the importance of this point home.
On a related note, the horizontal boring machines that I've used operate at a single RPM. Why would you want to vary the speed? As long as you don't exceed the maximum speed of the bit, you should be safe. The bits that I've used were solid carbide router bits and I think that they are safe to operate as speeds well in excess of a 'standard' motor.
Hope this helps.
Zxycho
Didn't you see the recommended drill speed chart on the top of my post? Nothing over 3,000 rpm was recommended...even less for hardwoods. VFD's provide three phase power but since you don't need the speed range it's not such an issue. So what's wrong with the method you are using and are you using 4,000 rpm now? What kind of drill bit are you using? You might try posting this question on the http://www.woodweb.com try the solid wood machining forum
Edited 7/5/2002 6:44:44 AM ET by rick3ddd
Rick -
I am using a drill press at 3100 rpm and a holding jig and I have to drill from both ends and hope the holes meet in the center. The dill press definitely lacks in quality.
At speeds around or under 1500 rpm, there is to much sideways drift in the bit. The higher speeds will drill a straighter hole (less drift). The other problem with my drill press is it only has a 2.5" throw.
Mike
PlaneWood by Mike_in_KatyPlaneWood
A better drill press would be a world of difference. I've got an older 17" Delta with a 6" travel that does a great job using the recommended speeds for the appropriate type of drill. Are you familiar with quality modern drill motors like metabo, even makita and dewalt have a straight collar just behind the chuck which allows you to mount it accurately in a guide? Did you look at the drill guide I listed in a previous post? Perrhaps you aren't using the best drill for endgrain. Different drill bits work best in different conditions and materials. I recently made a sort of guide jig for drilling a special timber frame bracket we use on occasion. It's sort of a similar application that could relate to your problem but you are drilling through end grain and at a slight angle for the handles. Are you using the drill bit best suited for the application?
I would think it would be easier to make the motor stationary and the material plunge onto the bit, maybe sled type set up on an old table saw table for example?
You can increase or decrease rpms of any motor by changing pullys, can't you? I think pi x diameter = circumference. Using that formula, it should be pretty easy to get whatever speed you want from whatever motor you can get your hands on...maybe turn one of your existing tool motors into a double duty device.
Mike, have you ever thought about hunting down an old Shop Smith. I've heard that they are really great at horizontal boring. Of course if I know you like I think I do, you're looking around your shop right now, gathering up a piece of this and piece of that and by the time you get back and read this post you'll have made something better than you could buy.
Steve - in Northern California
Mike,
Is a modified lathe an option for you? I assume you have a lathe for turning those plane knobs, so maybe you can set it up with a drill chuck and a sliding table.
This is exactly what I plan to do for a horizontal mortiser/boring machine. I have a Jacobs chuck with a #2 Morse taper arbor that fits in my Nova 3k lathe spindle. I plan on using this setup mainly for mortising, so I will put a 4-flute end mill in the chuck, turn the headstock 90 degrees, set up an adjustable table, and run it anywhere from 1750 to 3000 RPM (whatever RPM works best). To keep the chuck from flying off, I'm going to add a set screw to fix the chuck to the arbor and a draw bolt to hold the whole thing in the spindle, but you won't need this if your setup is strictly for boring. You make great-looking plane handles by the way.
Rick
Treedust -
That is exactly what I'm attempting to do right now! Will let you know how it goes.
PlaneWood by Mike_in_KatyPlaneWood
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