Replies

1. 
   woodshaver | Dec 09, 2003 05:36am | #1

   get a iron without a aluminum bottom, and a 2"x3"x3/4" rubing block, apply the iron until the glue on the tape just starts to bubble, then rub with the block.  the one mistake most made is not getting the tape hot enough.                              regards mark.

2. 
   mitch | Dec 09, 2003 05:41am | #2

   i use a basic household iron medium hot and then go over it with a j-roller.  i trim with one of those double-sided razor tools- BUT only use half of it at a time.  i never had any luck trimming both sides at once because the wood grain will practically always be rising on one side and falling on the opposite edge (never perfectly parallel to both sides- at least not for any useful distance).  in other words, in order to trim with the grain- and avoid splitting out or chipping- you need to be going in opposite directions on opposite edges.  just like reading and cutting with the grain for planing.  there's lot of tricks to using this stuff, like running a razor under the tape at the ends then pushing it down to break it off cleanly or leaving both ends long and loose where they cross at a corner then mitering them with a razor blade.  it's pretty inexpensive- practice and experiment on some scrap ply to find what works best for you.

   m

1. 
   numbfinger | Dec 09, 2003 05:46am | #3

   Thanks Mitch...  ever try a laminate trimmer?

   And I definitely like the mitered corner idea!

1. 
   mitch | Dec 09, 2003 04:06pm | #4

   yeah i did, but only once.  i found it too noisy, messy, hard to control on a 3/4" thick edge, and the hot melt glue gummed up the cutter and bearing pretty fast.  i just figured the veneer tape was soft enough to trim easily with a razor or other manual means that a lam trimmer was unnecessary.  as opposed to actual high pressure laminate, which is too hard and tough to do practically any other way.

   try getting one of those double edge trimmers and using just half at a time (they pull right apart- no screws or anything).  it makes for a nice neat right angle holder and keeps the blade flush with the edge.  mine also has an adjustable bevelling blade but i don't use it.  i just ease the edges with a little sandpaper.  also get a 100 pack of single edge razors from a paint and wallpaper supply- you'll find a million uses for them.

   m

3. 
   Norse | Dec 09, 2003 05:53pm | #5

   I use an iron and j-roller as in the above post. You have to get used to the temperature and speed to get the tape hot enough but not so hot to burn it or curl it.

   To trim, I like to use a wide (1 1/2") very sharp chisel. I approach at about a 45 degree angle with a down cutting (slicing) motion with the flat part of the chisel on the board. Watch the grain direction!

   Miter this stuff? Wow! I just ran up to look at some doors on a cabinet I edged with tape years ago with over-lapped ends and I can't see which was run first. You guys (the collective "guys", no gender reference intended)are good!

4. 
   gecko | Dec 10, 2003 12:09am | #6

   use an iron, and block of wood as suggested. to trim, use a file, then 220 sand paper.

   i worked in a shop a few years ago that did a LOT of edge banding and thats how we did it.

   When the mention of mitering the corners was made, i took it to mean mitering the corners like when a gable end on a cabinet meets the top or bottom shelf, and you are edge banding the front.

   Custom Cabinetry and Furniture

   http://www.BartlettWoodworking.com

    

1. 
   numbfinger | Dec 10, 2003 02:07am | #7

   "to trim, use a file, then 220 sand paper"

   The paper I understand... but what do you mean by a file?

   Just a regular old file run across the edge?

1. 
   gecko | Dec 10, 2003 07:16am | #10

   yes, a regular file. you need to practice it on some scrap first so as not to damage the edge. you want the file and the piece of wood your applying the edgeband to to act like scissors on the edgebanding. Keep that in mind, and you'll get it.

   you'll also know you got it when the scrap edgebanding comes off in one long curly thin piece.

   let me know if you need further explanation.

   have fun!

   Custom Cabinetry and Furniture

   http://www.BartlettWoodworking.com

    

1. 
   Elcoholic | Dec 11, 2003 12:35am | #11

   I use the wife's iron and rub it down with a wooden block.   I don't care for the Virutex type trimmer but haven't tried using half of it.  As recommended by some, trimming and chamferreng in one step with a hard sanding block works but is slow and the hand-wrought look is out of place on plywood IMHO.  I made a loft bed with integrated storage and desk in the pedestals.  This was the biggest edge taping job I've ever tackled.  In the midst of the foremention frustrations I arrived at an excellent solution.  A Fein Multimaster fitted with the offset scraper blade (as-is) does an amazing job.  Stand the piece on edge on a sacrificial surface and trim to length.  Then run downhill on each edge and you're done or follow-up with a L/A block plane to chamfer.  The relative dullness of the scraper seems to keep it from digging into the plywood veneer.John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   Life is tough.  It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne

1. 
   numbfinger | Dec 11, 2003 02:48am | #12

   Thanks guys...

   I stole the wife's iron. I tried using a 3/4" chisel with some decent results.

   Thanks for the further explanation gecko. 

   The tape I'm using is 13/16, but the cab sides are 1/2". There is a pretty good sized slice on one side, so I'm having a bit of trouble with the file. I've been slicing first with a chisel, and then finishing up with the file.

   I think with a bit more practice I'll just be using the file.

   Hmmm... one guy said that he just overlapped the corners? Is that a standard practice? I am having a hell of a time getting the longer pieces to come out the exact length, especially if I'm trying to fit the piece between 2 other pieces. (like on the sides of the cab after the topand bottom are already on.

   Any tips on trimming the ends to fit?

   Thanks again for the helpguys.

2. 
   Sphere | Dec 11, 2003 03:23am | #14

   Let the inbetween piece a little long and do not iron it down all the way...the top and bottom parts alraedy done will be "proud" kinda feel where they are beneath the side pcs. and trim a little long then iron on the last bit...press it down tighter, then re-trim if needed. if you want a flat miter, overlap and cut both at the same time reheat and remove offcut, repress.

3. 
   gecko | Dec 11, 2003 05:42pm | #15

   trimming to length is a pain if the cabinet is already assembled. normally what I do is as the cabinet parts come off the table saw I use a sharpy permanent marker to mark the sides that need edgebanding with an 'X'. I then do all the edgebanding before final assembly. on a somewhat related topic I also mark each piece on an area that wont be edgbanded with the part number so I can cut several dozen pieces and know exactly what they are for.

   In general I don't do the final assembly until very last, after I've applied the finish.

   Custom Cabinetry and Furniture

   http://www.BartlettWoodworking.com

    

4. 
   numbfinger | Dec 11, 2003 07:52pm | #16

   Thanks to all who replied...

   Yeah, I figured after the fact that everything would have been a heck of a lot easier before assembly! Including shelf pin holes and edge banding :)

   I think I finally got the file method for trimming the edge banding. It comes off in nice little curls and it even works on the wider waste pieces. Quick too.

   I used a block of wood for pressing the edge banding down and that works pretty well. I like the suggestion for using a piece of marble for pressing the banding but... 

   *somewhere along the line I seem to have lost all my marble.*

   This was a definite learning experience. I could have spent another 2 hours or so with just a paper and pencil getting everything figured out in order to make the work a little more production oriented.

   Hey gecko - I take it you are a cabinetmaker by trade?

   Thanks again for the tips.

5. 
   gecko | Dec 11, 2003 08:37pm | #17

   Glad to hear everything is working out. I usually just use a piece of MDF or whatever scrap I have laying around to press the banding down after heating with an iron.

   Yes, I am by trade a cabinet maker. I'm glad to say though that nearly all of the furniture I make is solid material so I don't do a whole lot of edge banding anymore.

   One more thing to keep in mind when filing: be careful to keep the file nice and flat on the work piece or you're liable to see the filing marks when it comes time to stain the piece. 

   Custom Cabinetry and Furniture

   http://www.BartlettWoodworking.com

    

5. 
   migraine | Dec 10, 2003 05:46am | #8

   An iron, and a block of 3/4" x 1 1/2"x 3" marble with a 1/4" round over works better than a wood block or j roller.  Trim with a medium sharp chisel.  Not dull or not razor sharp.  Try the melimine edge tape and try different brands.  Some work better than others.  If using veneer tape, buy the presanded and a good quality finger joint kind. Trim with the grain

1. 
   DonStephan | Dec 10, 2003 06:20am | #9

   There is a specialty file for removing excess iron on edge banding. Little bit coarser than a standard metal file, although I have heard of people using metal file. The Virulux (sp?) trimmer works very well with melamine edge banding, but two or three passes needed to get close trim, and I still sometimes touch up with the file. With wood edge banding I use the file only.

6. 
   stevemorris | Dec 11, 2003 02:49am | #13

   a heat gun(paint remover) works best for me, heat up 8 to 10 inches at a time till the glue just bubbles then use a J roller, smoothing the tape until its cool

   trimming?, very sharp utility knife, watching the grain direction followed by a regular file and fine sandpaper

   ive tried a laminate trimmer, but it just tore the heck out of the veneer tape

   caulking is not a piece of trim