how best to fix a mirror in a frame?
jeremyillingworth
| Posted in General Discussion on
On some previous 16 X 20 mirrors, I just cut a 1/4 by 1/4 (about) strip of wood and screwed through it into the side of the rabbet. It looks great and is super secure, but I found that if some of my screw holes were angled towards the mirror a little, it would put pressure on the mirror and distort it. I’m just finishing up some 14 X 60ish mirrors and am open to alternatives that would help me avoid any distortions. The only other thing I can think of is using the small metal glass clips that are used to hold glass in wooden window frames. I was thinking I might hammer them in place and still use full length wooden strips, but they would no longer rest directly on the glass, just keep it from falling out. Any other thoughts?
jeremy
Replies
I usually lay the mirror in its frame, face down, and run a bead of clear RTV around the perimeter. In a few hours its as solid as it ever needs to be with no distortion. If it ever needs replacing you just cut the RTV with a knife.
David Ring
http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e
Jeremy
David Ring gave you a simple and straight forward solution - I will let my imagination play a little and give you one that is not as simple or as straight forward, and probably by definition should be ignored.
Insert some metal (steel) strips into the frame using epoxy, so that the metal is flush to the wood surface. Install some appropriate rare earth magnets in the strips you want to install. Apply the mouldings and allow the magic of magnetism to hold your mirror in place. Warning: keep your watch away from the magnets. JL
Use fender washers -- big washers with a small hole -- and small wood screws. Place the washers so that they overlap the opening, holding the glass in place.
Support our Troops. Bring them home. Now. And pray that at least some of the buildings in the green zone have flat roofs, with a stairway.
Thicker mirrors are less prone to distortion. Try using 1/8 th or 2x (double strength), Lie the mirror face down on the frame, and use small wooden cleats around the perimeter set with small brads.
I finally sprang for a 23 gauge headless pinner for just such an application. It has turned out to be a tool that has a thousand uses beyond holding thin strips in place. After much research, I felt that the Cadex 1-3/16 gun was the best quality for the price. It has saved me lots of time and does not split even thin hardwood dowels, and has not misfired or jammed once.
Bob
Just apply a few dabs of GE clear 100% silicone caulking compound at the corners and top and side centers.
Press-in glazing points have always served me well. Worth about $2 for a hundred.
Nat
After you secure the glass with glazing points, do you do anything else for holdling strength or looks?
jeremy
jeremy, and those using washers, and other metal fasteners:
Be aware that if the reflective coating on the back of the mirror is scratched, it will not be good. Better use cardboard or something as a buffer between metal and mirror.
Old work usually used several bevel-edged, narrow wooden blocks around the perimeter of the frame, held in place with a simple rub joint (hide glue, but elmers or titebond works too). The bevel of the edge overlaps the edge of the glass, and wedges it in place. No metal to scratch, no risk of nails or glazing points chipping the glass.
Regards,
Ray Pine
Depends on whether the back side will be seen or not. With mirrors, often the back is not visible, so in those instances I do nothing more than set the points. If it's for a door, I often hold the glass/mirror with mouldings screwed in place (I screw them so if the glass/mirror ever needs replacing it's easier). That being said, glazing points aren't that hard on the eyes. In fact, they look better than a bad silicone job (Bad like most of the ones I produce. Just can't seem to help getting it everywhere). Another option is glazier's putty which can be tinted to match the woodwork, but it takes some practice to get the application right. I believe there was an article in FWW on the subject a piece back.... I'll check my back issues when I get a minute and see if I can't get you the issue#.Nat
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