Replies

1. 
   rslatm | Feb 10, 2004 07:38pm | #1

   I regularly cut phenolic, garolite, delrin with a combination blade on my table saw. I also use a bandsaw but my table saw gives a nicer cut and finish.
2. 
   patternmaker | Feb 10, 2004 08:46pm | #2

   Sproc:

   If you know what use you will make of this slab,you can take it to your local tool and die shop and have them cut it into managable size pieces. They will use either a variable speed bandsaw or a metal cutting hack saw.At this stage I would not worry too much about the finish.I have never tried to cut phenolic of this thickness on the table saw.I have on occasion cut it on the bandsaw with a carbide blade.My bandsaw has step 'v'pulleys that allow for a slower band speed. I use this material up to 2"thickness to make models for the vacuum forming of plastic sheet. The disc sander does a fair job cleaning up the convex edges. For the precise cleanup of straight edges,I use the vertical mill.

   With a slab this size weight would be a factor,since I now work alone.

   Work safely ¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬PAT¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬

1. 
   Bluegillman | Feb 11, 2004 06:47am | #4

   Well said!

3. 
   3dog3 | Feb 10, 2004 10:32pm | #3

   Sprocket:

   Whatever you do, be VERY careful.  Two years ago I was cutting a piece about this size, but only 1/2" thick.  Just as I was about to complete the cut on the cabinet saw, the piece shattered.  It sent a hunk of this stuff back into my left index finger, breaking the finger and nearly shearing off the finger nail.  Luckily, the finger nail just folded over backward onto itself.  Stitches and quick medical care saved the finger nail (only a little disfigured and only a little residual numbness).

   I later figured out that the phenolic cutoff came into contact with the rear of the blade.  Instead of kickback, it shattered.  This stuff is very slippery on the saw table.  I would suggest mounting it into a jig and then cutting.  Incidentally, I was using a Forrest WWII blade to make the cut.

   Good luck.

   Michael 

1. 
   Scrit | Feb 11, 2004 10:58am | #5

   I'd agree with that comment! I periodically cut phenolic (normally no thicker than 1in, though) on both a slider and a CNC router - in both cases it needs to be well secured (clamped down) before making the cut. Another piece of advice - if you are cutting it on the table saw use either a Euro-style short rip fence or make-up an auxilliary short rip fence to give the same effect, and use the crown guard. This is especially true if you are producing short/small offcuts as they can easily become trapped between the blade and the fence and turn into a sharp edged projectile. Not nice!

   Scrit