Thanks in advance for your advice everyone.
working on a hard maple table. We’re carving out a large portion in the middle. next stage we are filling that ‘hole’ with epoxy.
As expected, the table is starting to warp as we carve out the middle. So it’s a bit of a race against time to get the epoxy in.
I am wanting to apply a wipe on finish over the whole wood to slow down the warping before we can get the chance to fill with epoxy (which for logistical reasons may be another month or so).
my question is: what wipe on finish can I apply that will seal the wood and to which the epoxy will adhere?
Replies
That top will do what it wants even under a finish. If you don't get it stable the next time it moves could pop your fill out. To me the epoxy has a better chance of adhering to raw wood.
Stabilize the top from below with battens. I would not attempt the pour until certain you have the top held flat for good.
Exactly what MJ said. I wouldn't put finish on now, and it will not help with warping.
Is the rest of the table done? If it is, attach it to the base. If it isn't, clamp a few 2x4s to the top from above and below, to keep it flat. And stand the top on its long edge after. Having a panel flat will contribute to warping, from uneven moisture uptake and loss.
You don't mention in your post if you will be coloring the epoxy (by the looks of the piece you might intend to that) but a bigger reason to seal the wood is to keep the colored epoxy from "creeping" into the wood. If clear epoxy probably not a big deal but if dyed (colored) epoxy then it's a real issue. And yes even with maple it is possible - in fact likely. I have had good results with multiple coats of shellac and polyurethane also works well. I understand that to prevent this from happening the "river" table top folks coat surfaces with clear epoxy before using the colored epoxy. I will probably try this the next time.
I think the only thing that has not been affected by the global supply chain problem is blue epoxy.
Thanks so much for the heads up guys. Didn't realize the finish wouldn't do much to stop warp.
Yes, we plan to colour the epoxy. So I may put a water based stain on only to prevent that.
As for stabilizing, I already installed two c-channels on the underside, as well as steel corners on the ends. But I will take your advice and also install battens. I'm cognizant of how much warping can happen during this process so I've tried to do everything I can to reinforce it. I also leave cauls on between carving sessions.
I'll probably go ahead and attach the base soon (both sides are exposed during the carving process - it's elevated on some 2x4s).
Any further input is super welcome.
Are you going to color the wood?
Wasn’t planning on - no. Epoxy, then oil.
Should you have first cut the channel for epoxy, pour it and let that set fully and then plane it as a unit flat?
There will definitely be some planing afterwards. When I say warping, we’re talking fairly minimal. Like I said, there are already significant supports in place.
Why not use a penetrating epoxy first?
Or could use a thin CA glue. I've had good luck with that under epoxy and other 2-part plastics.
Regarding using epoxy for filling holes, take a look at Blacktail Studios on youtube. This guy does river tables, with extensive resin pores on some. He also imparts a ton of useful info on how to avoid problems and why he does certain things. Worth a look.
https://www.youtube.com/c/BlacktailStudio
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