So i have been thinking a lot(probably to much) about hand planes lately. Ok I get the basic idea hand planes flatten by spanning high spots and shaving those down, until the entire face is shaved down and flat. So my question is if the sole of the plane is dead flat from front to back doesn’t the blade have to sit below this level to cut into the wood. And if it hangs down wont it cut a grove with every stroke? Slightly below the sole level. The way that power Jointers work is that you feed the stock in on a smooth table, then it goes over cutters and out feeds onto a slightly higher out feed table. Is it that the blade on a hand plane is set to such a small amount blow the level of the sole that the cuts are virtually not noticeable? IT would seem that you would want the part of the hand plane that falls behind he blade to be slightly lower than the front. But i could be nuts as well.
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Replies
Stop analyzing, Whiskytango, it's not a power tool, you can't apply logic, get a plane and find out for yourself.
WT,
(is your last name foxtrot?? just asking)
Hand planes operate upon the same principle as a bumble bee's flying. It can't be done, yet it works perfectly well. Coincidentally, if the plane is set to cut much deeper than the total thickness of a pair of bees wings, it works less and less well, til it won't fly atall.
I believe you might be heading toward paralysis by analysis. Yes a hand-planed surface will frequently exhibit some irregularities, especially if the plane is operated by a novice. That surface is often explained away by afficianados as "the sort of tactile surface that power tools cannot duplicate". If you like you can remove the grooves (railroad tracks) tearouts and dawks by carefully smooth planing, and/or scraping, the same way you can remove power tool marks.
Ray
Well, Hammer1 and joinerswork in the same thread.....what's going on here? A couple of old Knotheads cruising through after site armageddon?
Just thought I'd say "Hi!".
"...paralysis through analysis." lol Love that, Ray.
Cheers,
Jeff
When I was just a wee sprout, my mentor always used to yell at me these words....."Don't think, DO!".
Hi Jeff,
Wish I could take credit for that turn of phrase, or at least give credit where due, but I can't do that either. Might have been Mel...
After armageddon. Has the Rapture already taken place? That would explain a lot.
Ray, he of the wailing and teeth gnashing
It's a barbershop thing. You
It's a barbershop thing. You know, "take a little off the top"? ;-)
Seriously, the first element to understand is that the cutting edge of the iron can be shaped during sharpening to have an arc, or "camber" appropriate for the intended purpose. Scrub planes probably have the most aggressive camber, since they are intended to "hog" off considerable amounts of stock. Jack planes have less camber, and smoothers typically have only a tiny bit, while jointer planes often have no camber at all.
Getting the board flat and smooth is left to the skill of the person wielding the planes (in the proper order, of course). Winding sticks and (sorta precision) straight edges are often used for gauging the flatocity (not to be confused with flatulence) of the board. ;-)
wt,
the fellas gave a pretty good summary of how to perform planing opperations. however the general theory of how a plan works is as follows (and i way oversimplified it):
keep in mind that the board you are flattening has hills an valleys. while the nose or tail of the plane rides on the hill the center of the plane is lifted from the surface and does not cut while it is on a spot that is lower than the hill . when the blade reaches the high spot it shaves a little bit of it off on each progressive stroke. when your plane is on a paper "thin setting" and makes long continuous shavings you are looking at a surface that is "flat" in the direction you are planing. usually i plane diagonally (45 deg) to the direction of the grain. once you are "flat" in this direction repeat at a 90 degree direction to the original. less material removed is better using more strokes. finally plane with the grain.
longer planes are good for providing really flat surfaces. to check out how you are progressing, try coloring a board or glue up table top type surface with a pencil, then start planing and monitor your progress on shaving off the hills (high spots). it sort of a fun acitivity, .... if you are a wood geek like some of us are.
happy shaving
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