How do I bore large blind holes in the end grain of a log?
Hi. I would like to make a chopping block from a short length of ash log that is about 18″ in diameter and it is about 18″ long. I want to insert three legs into the bottom of the log in a tripod arrangement. I’ve tried boring 1 1/4″ dia holes in the end/bottom of the log by using a Wood Owl bit chucked in an electric corded drill. It nearly took my arm off when the bit caught in the wood. I then tried slowing the speed down (it’s a variable speed drill). But the bit just stopped and I got a buzzing noise from the drill while it stalled-so no go there either. I also tried chucking into my old Sioux heavy duty beast of a drill (1960’s vintage, one speed only) and that also almost ripped my wrist off. I tried chucking it into a brace but the bit just kept spinning without going forward into the wood. The small threaded conical point on my bits are all intact and not worn so that’s not it.
The log is green.
I see these three legged stumps being used everywhere on the web when I watch people using hand tools and hatchets and carving. I watched someone doing this into birch while making a shrink pot and it looked way easy. Now granted that it is birch and not ash, but does that make a difference?
What the heck am I missing? What is the secret to doing this?
I recently purchased a decent set of 2″ dia auger bits and was thinking about making a T-handle for them, sharpening them up and trying the T-handle method. May be this would give me more leverage?
Come on, this can’t be that difficult. Any suggestions?
Thanks
Replies
It sounds lije the only nits you've tried have a lead screw. If the lead screw strips out, the bit is very difficult to advance. If the bit does thread into the wood, it provides too much torque snd will "take your arm off."
Try a Forstner bit. It won't grab.
Your problem might be wet wood, which be grabby. Rather than T handles, have you considered a hand brace? I picked one up at an antique sale for $20 and it's good for oddball stuff like this, or for really fine work, like drilling a pilot hole for a #4 screw.
I agree with mschlack. I always drill a 1/16 inch pilot hole with a small hand brace, then go to a egg beater drill about 1/8 to 1/4 inch with a forstner bit, and finally break out the big hand brace with either a spade bit. The forstner helps you line up the hole angle beforehand too. I only use the electric drill when the hole is already about 1/2 inch or more deep. I drill slowly with the electric drill and clean out the hole with the hand brace or a chisel so the bit doesn't get bogged down and overheated. It just takes a little more time and patience.
I mentioned in my description that I tried a brace. And that didn't work either.
Use your intended bit to drill a hole in some hard, thick stock at the drill press, then cut a face to match your leg angle. Clamp or screw the block to your stump to guide the bit. You will be able to apply feed pressure to your handheld drill of choice while staying on course.
If you do not have access to a drill press you can still try a hand brace. View Vic Tesolin's video on how to sharpen an auger bit. They frequently need sharpening. Mine needed sharpening. It really makes a difference.
The green wood and a fully fluted bit is your undoing. The fluted body of a “normal“ drillbit produces too much drag in the reactive green material. Take a look at something like Lee Valley‘s Greenwood bits.
Bigger drill? I have an old Dewalt DW124KStud and Joist Drill. It's a big, heavy, two speed drill with a long handle on the back to control it. It is intended for use with big hole saws through framing lumber for plumbers and electricians.
https://www.google.com/search?q=stud+and+joist+drill&rlz=1C5CHFA_enUS755US755&sxsrf=ACYBGNR3gAWm87s21Wi5ViGoOCINordbdA:1579704277361&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwijkbWCuZfnAhXiNX0KHQCwCK8Q_AUoA3oECDQQBQ&biw=1440&bih=671
I bought mine on eBay years ago when I was doing remodeling. But, you could go rent something like it? I know Milwaukee makes something similar, the Hole Hawg, that I bet a tool rental place would have.
I;ve used mine for drilling, mixing drywall mud, paint, etc over the years. It is one tool I don't use often, but when I need it, nothing compares!
Try starting with a smaller hole and working your way up to the size you want in the end. That is a technique that metal workers and stone workers use.
Does not work well with wood, the larger bit has a strong tendency to catch suddenly entering the smaller hole and will jerk the electric drill off your hands.
GeeDubBee said,, "a fluted bit and green wood is my undoing". Not so, I've taken classes where they clearly used auger (fluted) bits into green wood (side grain) with absolutely no problems plus you see it being done all the time in timberframing (they've been doing it that way for hundreds of years). In my case, I'm going into end grain which is different than going into side/long grain.
It's not the flutes, but the lead screw which is messing you up. There are fine thread lead screws, and course threads. If one isn't working, the other might. And no lead screw is often preferable.
A two inch t-handle auger in end grain is a bear. It takes a lot of torque to get that through green end grain.
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