Replies

1. 
   Pondfish | Sep 23, 2005 02:06pm | #1

   First, I assume there is decent grain in your maple worth accenting.

   I finish maple using oil/varnish, shellac or poly depending on it's expected use.  You can wipe on an oil finish prior to shellac or poly to helphighlight the grain.  Most stains, however, will muddy the appearance.  Better to use tinted shellac, tinted lacquer or dyes than most stains.

   Recommending the use of "Hide Signatures" option under "My Preferences" since 2005
2. 
   ak | Oct 07, 2005 05:48am | #2

   Because of maples density and working properties, it does not take stain well at all. It can however be dyed with great results. If you are going to stain it though, plane, scrape, then lightly sand your surface. Sanding alone will not cut the wood fibers mashed down by your surface planer. After that wipe on a mix of muratic acid cut in half with distilled or filtered water. this will raise the grain so once it dries sand lightly to knock down the grain. This will make the figure "pop" as they say a little more than normal. I assume this is figured maple.

1. 
   Jimma | Oct 07, 2005 04:21pm | #3

   What does the muriatic acid do that plaine water doesn't?

1. 
   ak | Oct 10, 2005 06:49am | #4

   Well, somehow the acid reacts to the figure in the maple. You see figure such as curl or birds eye is essentially end grain, so when the acid is absorbed into the figure it intesifies it after being finished. I wish i had a real scientific explanation, but that's what my teacher told me and it works!!

1. 
   Jimma | Oct 10, 2005 03:26pm | #5

   Interesting. In your opinion, would the end result be a more pronounced grain than could be created using dye? Have you compared the two methods?

1. 
   ak | Oct 10, 2005 06:56pm | #6

   yes i have, and the muratic acid doen make a more prononced figure than just dye alone. It's not a dramatic difference, but it is noticeable.

2. 
   Jimma | Oct 10, 2005 07:21pm | #7

   Thanks. What concentration of acid do you use, and is there a need to neutralize it before the final finish?

3. 
   ak | Oct 12, 2005 03:47am | #8

   cut the acid in half with filtered water. no need to neutralize before dyeing.

4. 
   Rich14 | Oct 12, 2005 06:07am | #9

   ak,There are chemicals which used to be employed in various wood finishing processes that many informed workers now avoid for very good reason - they are toxic and they are dangerous.I've been around woodworking for a long time and I've never heard of treating wood with muriatic acid. If the effect is, as you say, subtle, I don't understand the attraction for this method.Are you sure of your "formula?" Muriatic acid, diluted with an equal amount of water? No neutralization?That concentration of muriatic acid is extremely caustic, with a pH in the vicinity of 1 to 2. I would advise extreme caution with such a brew. Muriatic acid is commonly used in swimming pools and the technique is to pour only a few ounces into an entire pool, very slowly. I have used the stuff to clean stone walkways and concrete, by using 1 or 2 cupfulls to a gallon and a half of water, and applying with a long-handled bristle brush, and staying as far from the business end of that brush as possible. then washing with plenty of water from a running hose, or using a neutralizing solution.I do not think your advice is well-thought through. No offense, but you are in dangerous territory here.Rich

5. 
   ak | Oct 13, 2005 04:42am | #10

   I understand your concern, but my formula comes from my teacher, and from his teacher, Tage Frid. My teacher has used this formula for 50+ years and taught it to me. I can see your need for caution here, I too have cleaned concrete and brick with it. I am simply repeating his formula given to me as his student. I used it, and it worked that is all I know.

6. 
   Rich14 | Oct 13, 2005 08:36pm | #11

   Well, what precautions do you take? What do you use to apply this caustic potion? Do you just let it soak in and dry? Does muriatic acid (HCl) just sit there in a "dry" form in/on the wood, under the finish, waiting for activation by atmospheric humidity or accidental moisture?

   Does muriatic acid just "evaporate" if it's not neutralized? Does anyone know?

   What has happened, long term, to wood you have treated this way?

   Rich

7. 
   WillGeorge | Oct 14, 2005 02:46am | #12

   this caustic potion..I hear ya.. BUT... The home/shop is full of it.. In all sorts of stuff we use every day..The Caution is respected from you and 'Thanks for the caution' but if the person is aware of the dangers I would say go for it.. Geee.. You even said YOU used it!

8. 
   Rich14 | Oct 14, 2005 04:40am | #13

   "Geee.. You even said YOU used"Yeah. But NOT like that! A few ounzes to a swimming pool of water. A cupfull in a few gallons of water, applied to concrete at the end of a bristle broom, followed by copious amounts of water from a hose.But, as an application to wood? At that concentration? D-a-m-n!Any chemists reading this?